Chamfering

[Heather]

I hate to say this, but you just opened another can of worms (reloading for other people) that has been discussed in depth on this forum. Like everything, there is a wide range of opinions regarding the wisdom and risk of doing this, mainly because of the legal system we live in.
For me, the answer is that I will reload only for very close friends and relatives, and not for pay. I'll let them buy the components and then work up loads for them, but that's it.
Now, let's not hijack her thread folks. She asked a simple question.

Thanks. Planning on getting my licenses but waiting until then to do anything. Until then, just learning about it is more than enough for me.

 

[VinceMule]

Yes, the imperial dry lube is great. I have mixed a variety of dry lubes with lead BB's, 9, 8, 7 1/2 size shot, which keeps the dry lube from clumping in the necks and you having to tap it out. You just dip the neck in the dry lube coated bb's...done.

 

[K.E.C.]

Only because no one mentioned it:

New brass will have cases mouths that get out-of-round due to packing/shipping, etc. It's a good idea to run new brass through your sizing die before attempting to chamfer/deburr the cases.

What he said. And all the other advice. Always ask, never assume. Welcome here from Wv. Glad to see you

 

[K.E.C.]

What load ya got for the 338 wm? I'm interested in making one

Howdy, if you can find Barnes Ttsx 160gr, this is a mild load that works very well for me. Imr.4955 74gr. Cci250. C.o.a.l. 3.310. Hope this helps

 

[Heather]

Howdy, if you can find Barnes Ttsx 160gr, this is a mild load that works very well for me. Imr.4955 74gr. Cci250. C.o.a.l. 3.310. Hope this helps

Nice! Only have the die set for right now, got some other loads for now I'm working on.
Not gonna lie to everybody, I'm 18, been doing basic reloading for about a year and a half now. I've always wanted my own ammo shop where I can Ioad my own bullets, but getting there is the hardest part. Everywhere you turn in precision reloading there's always something else that can help. I never want to over do it but achieving more would be great. I figure, why not ask the people who have been doing it for years rather than turning to Google or the books? The books help, but this forum has helped a lot more.

 

[K.E.C.]

Nice! Only have the die set for right now, got some other loads for now I'm working on.
Not gonna lie to everybody, I'm 18, been doing basic reloading for about a year and a half now. I've always wanted my own ammo shop where I can Ioad my own bullets, but getting there is the hardest part. Everywhere you turn in precision reloading there's always something else that can help. I never want to over do it but achieving more would be great. I figure, why not ask the people who have been doing it for years rather than turning to Google or the books? The books help, but this forum has helped a lot more.

Congratulations, I'm hoping and praying you have someone overseeing what you're doing. Always ask before doing. Everyone here will help you.

 

[Heather]

Congratulations, I'm hoping and praying you have someone overseeing what you're doing. Always ask before doing. Everyone here will help you.

Thanks, have an ex military guy helping me out

 

[K.E.C.]

Thanks, have an ex military guy helping me out

Tell him thanks, for everything he's done. And for helping you. You all need anything please ask.

 

[stirner]

Speaking of deburring/chamfering tools: I've been using the same one by RCBS for about 35 years, and have wondered if I should replace it with a new (sharper?) one. Any thoughts?

The short answer is no. The long answer is that you are cutting brass with steel. Due to the difference in hardness, you will never wear out your deburring tool. I've had the same one for over 50 years. By the way, the same holds true for the bronze bore brushes, a soft metal rubbing a hard metal. I'm sure you've noticed that your bore brushes need to be replaced after a while.

 

[stirner]

I chanfer every brass prior to pushing in the pill. I use a Lyman hand ream, count the turns and attempt to use a consistent pressure. "If" I miss one (it happens) I can definitely feel the difference in seating... rough and much more pressure required. I sit those aside as barrel warmers.
I stopped deburring the OD a couple of years back. It didn't effect anything. Rifle chambers smoothly and shoots .300-.500.

The reason for de-burring the outside of the case mouth is to eliminate any lumps and bumps that would move the case mouth off center in the chamber.

 

[stirner]

Thanks guys. Didn't know how much there is to reloading. I'm on the younger side and haven't been reloading for long. So every bit of info really helps.

The amount of case prep work you do depends on how uniform you want your cases. At a minimum, you need to de-burr and chamfer the case mouths. If you see copper shavings on your shell holder, you are not chamfering enough. If you crimp your cases, then you have to trim the cases to the same length, otherwise, you will have different neck tensions. If you want ultimate accuracy, go to precision shooting, bench-rest shooting and long-range shooting websites. They will take you places you probably won't want to go. Like, I have a tool that chamfers the inside of the flash hole. It's a rod you insert in the case mouth, with a guide that fits in the flash hole, and a chamfer section to clean up the inside of the hole. Don't laugh, the best part is there is a collar that fits over the rod with steps to fit the various case diameters, so that the rod is centered on the case.

 

[Heather]

The amount of case prep work you do depends on how uniform you want your cases. At a minimum, you need to de-burr and chamfer the case mouths. If you see copper shavings on your shell holder, you are not chamfering enough. If you crimp your cases, then you have to trim the cases to the same length, otherwise, you will have different neck tensions. If you want ultimate accuracy, go to precision shooting, bench-rest shooting and long-range shooting websites. They will take you places you probably won't want to go. Like, I have a tool that chamfers the inside of the flash hole. It's a rod you insert in the case mouth, with a guide that fits in the flash hole, and a chamfer section to clean up the inside of the hole. Don't laugh, the best part is there is a collar that fits over the rod with steps to fit the various case diameters, so that the rod is centered on the case.

I've heard about the flash holes lol, and figured out that was why a few of my primers didn't seat correctly so I tossed the cases to the side. I do like doing all that technical work, time consuming but seems to really produce the best ammunition. There's so many different variables in how something performs it really shocked me as I got more into it.

 

[stirner]

I've heard about the flash holes lol, and figured out that was why a few of my primers didn't seat correctly so I tossed the cases to the side. I do like doing all that technical work, time consuming but seems to really produce the best ammunition. There's so many different variables in how something performs it really shocked me as I got more into it.

Welcome to the black hole of reloading. By the time you do all the case prep, load your first round, go through all the variables, you've burned out the barrel and need to buy another one, and start all over again. Ha, ha. Seriously, establish a goal for that particular rifle and be happy when you attain it. Remember to only change one variable at a time.

 

[Heather]

Welcome to the black hole of reloading. By the time you do all the case prep, load your first round, go through all the variables, you've burned out the barrel and need to buy another one, and start all over again. Ha, ha. Seriously, establish a goal for that particular rifle and be happy when you attain it. Remember to only change one variable at a time.

A wise friend told me to get a warranty on my barrels, I see why not sure if all places offer them (that's if you even buy it new)