Knight
Well-Known Member
It was IMR 4895 and about 2 plus grains over max.
Case Seperation I thought.
- Thread starter Knight
- Start date
Help Support Long Range Hunting Forum
Muddyboots
Well-Known Member
The good news is you were not injured in anyway and now have a life long experience to share with other reloaders that can be a learning experience for them as well. Hopefully you have a good idea what happened.
Beam scales can easily be off 5 grains if you are not careful getting the slider into the right slot. Especially if the scale is set off to the side a bit away from you to save bench space and you are not looking directly at the weight you want. I bet a lot of folks have done that. I know I have had that happen but since it was a load at near 100% it was easy to see when powder was up into the neck which caused me to stop and reassess what the heck was I doing. Which reinforced the good practice to remember is to check the case volume before seating bullets for me. My beam scale was moved to be directly in front of me to insure perfect alignment to the scale markings to prevent similar occurrences. Been using a digital for past 5 years which have their own unique issues to be aware of.
Thanks for sharing since I believe this helps us all reassess our own reloading steps to make sure we all are following best practices at all times. All it takes is one misstep and bad things can happen.
Beam scales can easily be off 5 grains if you are not careful getting the slider into the right slot. Especially if the scale is set off to the side a bit away from you to save bench space and you are not looking directly at the weight you want. I bet a lot of folks have done that. I know I have had that happen but since it was a load at near 100% it was easy to see when powder was up into the neck which caused me to stop and reassess what the heck was I doing. Which reinforced the good practice to remember is to check the case volume before seating bullets for me. My beam scale was moved to be directly in front of me to insure perfect alignment to the scale markings to prevent similar occurrences. Been using a digital for past 5 years which have their own unique issues to be aware of.
Thanks for sharing since I believe this helps us all reassess our own reloading steps to make sure we all are following best practices at all times. All it takes is one misstep and bad things can happen.
Marc Gauthier
Well-Known Member
To be able to put more powder you can buy a 30-06 spr. for example.
JeffVN
Well-Known Member
Glad you are all right.
Unless this was your first shot of the day prior loads and brass should have provided a hint that this might be coming. If you look at the load prior to this one, I'll be you have ejector marks and possibly signs of smear on the bottom of the brass. possibly some tight bolt and likely a flattened and/or cratered primer.
Assuming you still have a piece or two of un-fired brass from the same lot, measure the extractor groove with a blade micrometer (or decent caliper if the front is thin enough to fit into the groove). Go back to your prior loads, the ones that don't appear to be way over pressure, and measure the extractor groove of each one. A primer pocket growing is a sign you are nearing the pressure limits of that brass. If the pockets in my brass grows more than a thou 0.001 per firing I know the brass will last roughly 4-5 shots before the pockets are approaching too loose to hold a primer (time to either glue in the primers or recycle the brass). You can work harder the brass to take higher pressures and loads by fire forming at lower pressures, but that is a discussion for a different thread.
Been there did that with my 375/416 Barrett, dam glad to not be injured.
Unless this was your first shot of the day prior loads and brass should have provided a hint that this might be coming. If you look at the load prior to this one, I'll be you have ejector marks and possibly signs of smear on the bottom of the brass. possibly some tight bolt and likely a flattened and/or cratered primer.
Assuming you still have a piece or two of un-fired brass from the same lot, measure the extractor groove with a blade micrometer (or decent caliper if the front is thin enough to fit into the groove). Go back to your prior loads, the ones that don't appear to be way over pressure, and measure the extractor groove of each one. A primer pocket growing is a sign you are nearing the pressure limits of that brass. If the pockets in my brass grows more than a thou 0.001 per firing I know the brass will last roughly 4-5 shots before the pockets are approaching too loose to hold a primer (time to either glue in the primers or recycle the brass). You can work harder the brass to take higher pressures and loads by fire forming at lower pressures, but that is a discussion for a different thread.
Been there did that with my 375/416 Barrett, dam glad to not be injured.
Do you mean a beam RCBS scale. I have been using one for years. If it is inactive for a while (I am not using it) I have to start from zero before loading powder. Snoopy hands in house, cat in house, too many things to knock it off. But I love it, great scale for me.
[QUOTE = "Knight, post: 1617878, membro: 59515"] Mentre nel range testavo alcuni carichi su un Remington 700 308, ho sentito un rapporto sconosciuto mentre il fumo filtrava fuori dall'area del bullone. Oh ... no, pensai mentre tentavo di estrarre il bullone.
era la separazione del caso? Non potevo rompere il chiavistello senza un martello, così me ne sono andato a casa.
After removing the scope and stock I was able to get better leverage and continued hammering on the bolt in an upward direction. when finally the bolt moved, I then continued to hammer it reward and it came out shell and all. As seen by the photo below it appears the case was melted into the bolt face. ( shell body badly beat up as I could not break it loose from the extractor with a pliers. Has anyone had this experience before and does anyone have any suggestions how to break the case free from the bolt face.View attachment 130805 View attachment 130807 [/QUOTE]
era la separazione del caso? Non potevo rompere il chiavistello senza un martello, così me ne sono andato a casa.
After removing the scope and stock I was able to get better leverage and continued hammering on the bolt in an upward direction. when finally the bolt moved, I then continued to hammer it reward and it came out shell and all. As seen by the photo below it appears the case was melted into the bolt face. ( shell body badly beat up as I could not break it loose from the extractor with a pliers. Has anyone had this experience before and does anyone have any suggestions how to break the case free from the bolt face.View attachment 130805 View attachment 130807 [/QUOTE]
Angelo Campana
Member
WOW, SMK1000Plus wasn't kidding. That is a "Face Blow Away" possibility. Have had a few SQUIB fire issues, but never something like that! I made a case extractor, as I have access to a machine shop. And I reiterate the following questions:
Powder Quantity
Powder Type and Age of Powder
Reload or new brass and what type
Primer type and depth (that is REAL important
Now, go play the Lotto...........you may be in for even better luck! LOL
Powder Quantity
Powder Type and Age of Powder
Reload or new brass and what type
Primer type and depth (that is REAL important
Now, go play the Lotto...........you may be in for even better luck! LOL
sodakota
Well-Known Member
I helped run a test on strength of different manufacture's fire arms. From that test I can safely say: There was a serious high pressure in this case!
You can be glad that you had not modified the bolt by adding a Sako type extractor. If you had and we're not wearing shooting glasses you might have lost an eye.
Do as others have suggested regarding removing the case from the bolt.
I'd try putting it in the freezer method first.
You can be glad that you had not modified the bolt by adding a Sako type extractor. If you had and we're not wearing shooting glasses you might have lost an eye.
Do as others have suggested regarding removing the case from the bolt.
I'd try putting it in the freezer method first.
Of three loads that I have had stick....two in two different remingtons(280ai & 65284)...the bolts did not come up and blow back...
The third was a Tikka t3 lite 7rm.......lets say I am glad I had my plastic lenses glasses on....the plastic shroud on the bolt still cut me below the lenses...
Found no actual reason why the Tikka did what it did....was a completely safe load to fire....not even near a hot load...and not jammed to lands....
Never did like that rifle after that episode.....gone like the wind....
The third was a Tikka t3 lite 7rm.......lets say I am glad I had my plastic lenses glasses on....the plastic shroud on the bolt still cut me below the lenses...
Found no actual reason why the Tikka did what it did....was a completely safe load to fire....not even near a hot load...and not jammed to lands....
Never did like that rifle after that episode.....gone like the wind....
basinman
Well-Known Member
I would like to add that it is best to cover your beam scale when not in use. Dust in the pivot area can cause problems.
Lee Goodwin
Well-Known Member
I had a primer blow out, once, and it was like a flame thrower cut loose on the bolt face. That was factory ammo, 243, and the guy at the factory admitted to using Russian primers for a while that might have been a little small. If you loaded 2 grains past max that could be a reason for the melt down. Max is max. Best accuracy is usually less than max. Keep your ammo out of direct sunlight too.
Lance Ledet
Member
A little heat on the casing with a torch then lay it on a table where you can pop it off with a mallet I have used this method several times. Most of the time the heat expansion will pop it off.
