Chamberman
Well-Known Member
340 Weatherby with a 250 grain partition will do it for sure!!!
Brown bear Rifle
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458win
Well-Known Member
If a 200gr partition from a 300win mag doesn't kill it then nothing else will either. Once you get the hide off a bear they are not nearly as big as they seem.
That being said if you want a new rifle get one, if you need a muzzle brake get a smaller caliber.
Most of my bears have been with the 375 or 300WM with accubonds. 270 works fine. Few of my friends get away with using 6.5 creedmoors but I don't recommend that.
Just put the first bullet where it needs to go and they go down pretty quick.
Storys of bears soaking up multiple hits from big calibers is from not hitting anything vital.
That being said if you want a new rifle get one, if you need a muzzle brake get a smaller caliber.
Most of my bears have been with the 375 or 300WM with accubonds. 270 works fine. Few of my friends get away with using 6.5 creedmoors but I don't recommend that.
Just put the first bullet where it needs to go and they go down pretty quick.
Storys of bears soaking up multiple hits from big calibers is from not hitting anything vital.
I've taken two, 34 years apart, and shot both of them twice, however in both cases the second shots were done just for safety.
The first one I shot was with my. 338 WinMag and a Nosler Partition I think was either 225 or 250 grains. The second one was my 300RUM with a 200 grain Nosler Accubond. The first bear was a 28 yard full frontal shot and the second one was a 132 yard left side shot placed low behind the left front leg. First bear dropped where he stood and second bear went 18 yards. In both cases my heart was traveling at the speed of light!
The first one I shot was with my. 338 WinMag and a Nosler Partition I think was either 225 or 250 grains. The second one was my 300RUM with a 200 grain Nosler Accubond. The first bear was a 28 yard full frontal shot and the second one was a 132 yard left side shot placed low behind the left front leg. First bear dropped where he stood and second bear went 18 yards. In both cases my heart was traveling at the speed of light!
I have hunted on Kodiak twice; first time in 98' and again in 02'. Killed 2 bears. First one squared 9'6". Used a 338 win mag at around 100 yards shooting Winchester 230gr black talon ammunition. Quartering towards me shot. Bullet struck him on the point of his shoulder and exited mid rib cage on far side. The guide followed up immediately behind my shot with his 375 and knocked the bear down. The second bear squared 8'6" and I used a 338 RUM at 230 yards shooting 250 nosler partitions. Broadside square in the shoulder shot dropped him instantly. But then he amazingly got back up and took off running down in a salmon stream. I fired a second time and hit him over the shoulders directly in the spine putting him down for good. The first shot literally broke both front shoulders but he was still able to somehow get up on his feet and hurtle himself off the bank down into that streambed and keep going.
Now, all that being said, Kodiak bears are just freaking tough! Those hunts were 20 years ago when I had 2 good working legs so I could get around throughout the tundra and up inside the alders easier. I don't know your age or your physical condition, but if I ever go back to Kodiak I won't be able to walk miles like I used to due to a very bad knee and ankle. These days I prefer to sit back at a more comfortable distance with a very accurate hard hitting rifle and make my shots. If your in good physical shape and can get close then a 300 will do the job with good bullets and good shot placement. However there certainly is a nice feeling of confidence when holding a big 338 or 375 in your hands. With my physical limitations now days I would prefer an accurate long range thumper; probably a 338 Lapua, or variant there of, shooting 285gr or 300gr bullets. A Christensen ELR or BA Tactical in 338 Lapua with a good 20-25 power scope would make a fantastic 300-500 yard brown bear rifle in my opinion. If your in good physical condition and can get within a couple hundred yards however, then my top choice would be the 375, since it has more frontal area, firing 300gr nosler partitions or 300gr swift a-frames. Just my opinions based on the experiences I've had hunting bears on Kodiak.
Now, all that being said, Kodiak bears are just freaking tough! Those hunts were 20 years ago when I had 2 good working legs so I could get around throughout the tundra and up inside the alders easier. I don't know your age or your physical condition, but if I ever go back to Kodiak I won't be able to walk miles like I used to due to a very bad knee and ankle. These days I prefer to sit back at a more comfortable distance with a very accurate hard hitting rifle and make my shots. If your in good physical shape and can get close then a 300 will do the job with good bullets and good shot placement. However there certainly is a nice feeling of confidence when holding a big 338 or 375 in your hands. With my physical limitations now days I would prefer an accurate long range thumper; probably a 338 Lapua, or variant there of, shooting 285gr or 300gr bullets. A Christensen ELR or BA Tactical in 338 Lapua with a good 20-25 power scope would make a fantastic 300-500 yard brown bear rifle in my opinion. If your in good physical condition and can get within a couple hundred yards however, then my top choice would be the 375, since it has more frontal area, firing 300gr nosler partitions or 300gr swift a-frames. Just my opinions based on the experiences I've had hunting bears on Kodiak.
RH300UM
Well-Known Member
My 2 cents as a AK guide is when you decide what rifle/cartridges/bullet combo to take bears can be the most tenacious animal on earth. Some drop with one shot from a 30cal some don't. Point is as guide it's about safety first. If the hunter puts a well placed shot in and it's still standing, most likely running now, the guide will most likely shoot now. Bears have a super ability for recovery from a shot that looks well placed. Of course it's a dynamic situation and each one is different but basics stay the same. If they are moving bullets are coming. I even will have a hunter put another one in it after the movement stops. Worse case for me is going into the thick alders for a wounded, still mobile, bear. Under 150 yards is what is my limit for big brown bears. Things are much more manageable and Workable there.
You as the hunter rely on the guide for his knowledge, expertise and abilities.
The guide is relying on the hunter to be able to take directions, be positive, be understanding and be safe. Its a team effort. Both parties have to work together.
Bear hunting is particularly hard because of its nature. Long days of Glassing from one spot. Bad weather for days at at time. Bad wind that doesn't allow a stalk. Bears to far off to stalk. It can be frustrating and demoralizing. 90% boredom 10% excitement. It's mostly a mental pursuit.
Prepare yourself mentally is the biggest factor. Your rifle choice is important, yes. It's the delivery tool and needs consideration. 375 is what I tell hunters to consider. If not it's not the end of the world. Good bullet construction is always paramount.
You as the hunter rely on the guide for his knowledge, expertise and abilities.
The guide is relying on the hunter to be able to take directions, be positive, be understanding and be safe. Its a team effort. Both parties have to work together.
Bear hunting is particularly hard because of its nature. Long days of Glassing from one spot. Bad weather for days at at time. Bad wind that doesn't allow a stalk. Bears to far off to stalk. It can be frustrating and demoralizing. 90% boredom 10% excitement. It's mostly a mental pursuit.
Prepare yourself mentally is the biggest factor. Your rifle choice is important, yes. It's the delivery tool and needs consideration. 375 is what I tell hunters to consider. If not it's not the end of the world. Good bullet construction is always paramount.
Jeffrey Van Zandt
Well-Known Member
no reason to get a new one the 300 will work good
340Wby-4-everything
Well-Known Member
As already said, any 338 is better than any 300, but there is nothing wrong with a 300WM and they and the lil' 
white ones have been killed with .22s on up, but I enjoy my life more than that. Also as stated, ensure your guide approves your rifle/cal - I know a couple that 338 is their minimum allowed. 416's are big medicine on the brownies, but tend to kill from both ends. Best of luck!
white ones have been killed with .22s on up, but I enjoy my life more than that. Also as stated, ensure your guide approves your rifle/cal - I know a couple that 338 is their minimum allowed. 416's are big medicine on the brownies, but tend to kill from both ends. Best of luck!Murtfree
Well-Known Member
I'm in the same position as the OP. Many years ago, about 20, I planned on a Brown Bear hunt but life situations changed that and postponed things. Now I am planning on completing that mission in the next few years. At the time I had built a 340 Weatherby and a 375 Ackley and figured I would use whatever I could shoot best. I probably will use the 375 and the increased time that has passed will allow me to try some new bullet and powder technologies. I just ordered some 300 grain Accubonds and hopefully I will get 2850 FPS as a muzzle velocity with RL26. Although Partitions did OK, I never was able to get the accuracy I like to see. And with the Ackley I can still shoot standard 375 H&H factory ammo if I need to in a pinch.
Charles Keethler
Well-Known Member
If I would ever get a chance to go for brown bear I would take my 375 H & H , 270 gr Hornady or 300 Swift A-frame.
I'm no brown bear exspert but can give witness to the power of a 300 win mag. Plus shot placement is everything. Good luck on your hunt.
LRNut
Well-Known Member
I have shot brown and grizzly bears in AK, both with a guide and without when I was stationed there in the army. My 2 cents:
1. If you draw blood, you will have to punch your tag. That is the law in AK; don't expect your guide to look the other way if that happens, as he will be in big trouble if the word gets out or you turn out to be a planted state trooper (all game wardens in AK are troopers). For that reason alone, don't worry about the guide shooting "your" bear. Personally, I tell all of my guides and PHs to feel free to unload after my first shot. Alaska guides are more than willing (only had one PH in Africa do it and that was on an elephant that I lung shot but insisted beforehand that he shoot). I simply don't want the animal to suffer.
2. Take a rifle that can weather the elements: do not take something with a finicky trigger, a 700 adjusted too light, etc. - in constant rain, your rifle will rust in places you can't see. I have had trigger issues twice in AK. You would think I would have learned after the first time.
3. Your scope is a bigger consideration than caliber (given you have a 300 Win). Don't show up with a long range rig; you will not be shooting out to 500 yards; your guide will not allow it. I had one guide on Kodiak tell me about a guy with a Gunwerks rifle that said it was guaranteed out of the box to 1000 yards. The guide said he let him take a 500 yard shot - the guy missed the bear completely and ended up going home empty handed.
4. Pay attention to the clothing you bring. IMO, the best is waist high wading pants with a pair of oversized hunting boots, followed by a Gore-Tex type parka, with a Helly Hanson rain parka. The Gore-Tex is for walking in; when glassing you wear the HH if is raining, which it will be more often than not. I actually normally wear a polypro-type shirt when walking and just change out of it quickly when setting up to glass.
5. MOST IMPORTANT: choose your guide/outfit carefully. Someone mentioned Phil Shoemaker; I hunted with him for moose in 2019 but saw more brown bears than moose (after passing several I did shoot one on day 6); great outfit. Cabot Pitts is another good Penn guide; shot a bear in 2017 with him. If you hunt the Penn, make sure your outfit has exclusive rights to their area (like Phil or Cabot); there is a lot of state land used by guides that have great prices but low success rates (I have heard a lot of horror stories in and out of King Salmon). On Kodiak, avoid buying a hunt on what is called a registration hunt, otherwise known as a road hunt. You want to get in a drawing. Finally, realize if you book in areas other than the penn or Kodiak your bear will likely be smaller; north of Bristol Bay the bears are called brown bears but are more like large grizzlies.
1. If you draw blood, you will have to punch your tag. That is the law in AK; don't expect your guide to look the other way if that happens, as he will be in big trouble if the word gets out or you turn out to be a planted state trooper (all game wardens in AK are troopers). For that reason alone, don't worry about the guide shooting "your" bear. Personally, I tell all of my guides and PHs to feel free to unload after my first shot. Alaska guides are more than willing (only had one PH in Africa do it and that was on an elephant that I lung shot but insisted beforehand that he shoot). I simply don't want the animal to suffer.
2. Take a rifle that can weather the elements: do not take something with a finicky trigger, a 700 adjusted too light, etc. - in constant rain, your rifle will rust in places you can't see. I have had trigger issues twice in AK. You would think I would have learned after the first time.
3. Your scope is a bigger consideration than caliber (given you have a 300 Win). Don't show up with a long range rig; you will not be shooting out to 500 yards; your guide will not allow it. I had one guide on Kodiak tell me about a guy with a Gunwerks rifle that said it was guaranteed out of the box to 1000 yards. The guide said he let him take a 500 yard shot - the guy missed the bear completely and ended up going home empty handed.
4. Pay attention to the clothing you bring. IMO, the best is waist high wading pants with a pair of oversized hunting boots, followed by a Gore-Tex type parka, with a Helly Hanson rain parka. The Gore-Tex is for walking in; when glassing you wear the HH if is raining, which it will be more often than not. I actually normally wear a polypro-type shirt when walking and just change out of it quickly when setting up to glass.
5. MOST IMPORTANT: choose your guide/outfit carefully. Someone mentioned Phil Shoemaker; I hunted with him for moose in 2019 but saw more brown bears than moose (after passing several I did shoot one on day 6); great outfit. Cabot Pitts is another good Penn guide; shot a bear in 2017 with him. If you hunt the Penn, make sure your outfit has exclusive rights to their area (like Phil or Cabot); there is a lot of state land used by guides that have great prices but low success rates (I have heard a lot of horror stories in and out of King Salmon). On Kodiak, avoid buying a hunt on what is called a registration hunt, otherwise known as a road hunt. You want to get in a drawing. Finally, realize if you book in areas other than the penn or Kodiak your bear will likely be smaller; north of Bristol Bay the bears are called brown bears but are more like large grizzlies.
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USA_774
Well-Known Member
Skip the Brake and go for the suppressor. Recoil and Noise reduction really helps prevent flinching.
N3334D
New Member
I use a .338 WM. There is one guide up here that for some reason forbids any Nosler bullets. I have no idea why but there must be a pretty good story behind it!
