Brass manufacturer difference?

I am looking at getting into reloading (.223, 7mm-08 and 308 Win). I am trying to put my equipment list together. All rifles will be used for hunting purposes only.

I know Lapua and Norma seem to be the "best", but what are the differences between each brand? What makes Hornady brass not as good as Winchester, and what makes Lapua better than Winchester?

Does Lapua require less case prep tools than Winchester or Remington?

So many questions....

Thanks
Steve

I bought some Jagemann, in 7mm RM, I am very impressed with the quality and precision. Seems they have a limited selection of calibers with their own head stamp. Got it through Natchez. Made in their own factory in Wisconsin.
 
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R-P brass is the only brass that the necks are weak.I never load to max and I've had a few with split necks.Ain't nothing made to last forever.Load em up and shoot......
 
Hi, Here are a couple of three shot groups from my Factory Stock, Untuned Savage 110 Medium Heavy Barrell , in .308 , using Winchester Brass, with Win LR Primers, and Berger Bullets . Out of the bag , the brass is neck sized ,( and trimmed if needed,) deburred and chamfered. just to prep and clean up the neck , both inside and out. Clean the inside of the neck. Then the brass is weighed !!! The weights are all over the place. Very inconsistent , So I have 6 blue boxes ( and Baggies ) ready to hold the new Brass. Ex; 156.0 to 156.2 is one batch. 156.3 to 156.4 another Batch, 156.5 to 156.6 is another batch. There may be between 12 and 15 of each of those in One Blue box, labeled what's in it. I separate my .308 Brass by 2/10th of a grain max . I do this no matter what brand of Brass I am using. For Bench Rest Shooting I separate by exact weight. Its not a lot of work, and it goes quickly, and I think its helpful in developing an accurate load. I do this for all my .270 Win Rifles as well. Just my 2 cents. I know its only Rock and Roll, but I like it . Lenny
 

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R-P brass is the only brass that the necks are weak.I never load to max and I've had a few with split necks.Ain't nothing made to last forever.Load em up and shoot......


I think you may be over working the case necks possibly due to an oversized neck in your rifles chamber. Factory chambered rifles vary a great deal, sloppy or tight depending on the age of the reamer which has probably started a little over size and discarded after a few sharpenings when slightly undersize . Have a look at the necks of fired cases and measure the expansion rate. I get about 20 firings from a case in my custom rifles where the reamer cuts an undersized chamber and the necks are turned two tenths of a thou under the chamber neck size. I suggest finding some brass with the thickest necks to reduce any excess expansion in your factory cut chambered rifles. If that doesn't work then get your rifle rechambered if there is sufficient diameter in front of the receiver to do so.
 
I think you may be over working the case necks possibly due to an oversized neck in your rifles chamber. Factory chambered rifles vary a great deal, sloppy or tight depending on the age of the reamer which has probably started a little over size and discarded after a few sharpenings when slightly undersize . Have a look at the necks of fired cases and measure the expansion rate. I get about 20 firings from a case in my custom rifles where the reamer cuts an undersized chamber and the necks are turned two tenths of a thou under the chamber neck size. I suggest finding some brass with the thickest necks to reduce any excess expansion in your factory cut chambered rifles. If that doesn't work then get your rifle rechambered if there is sufficient diameter in front of the receiver to do so.
No,it was just bad brass.That happens sometimes.
 
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