Boy, this seems like alot-opinions please

[Seven Oaks]

Recently got a Browning X-Bolt Hunter and wanted to adjust my trigger. You have to remove the bottom metal screws which are also the screws that secure the barreled action to the stock.

In the Browning owners guide it simply said to snug the action screws back.

Pretty lame instructions- So I called Browning and told the tech what I had and he said the torque specs for that rifle was 65 in/lbs. for both front and rear. I asked again and he said that was it.

Does this sound high to ya'll? It's a wood stocked rifle. It does have rather large bottom metal around the screws which would distribute the weight across a broad surface I guess.

 

[AJ Peacock]

Thats about right. Remember they said inch pounds, NOT ft pounds. Here is a link about torqueing action screws.

http://www.zediker.com/articles/torque.pdf


AJ

 

[Seven Oaks]

Thanks A.J.

I use a Wheeler Fat Wrench. I appreciate the article link as well. I feel better now.

 

[J E Custom]

Recently got a Browning X-Bolt Hunter and wanted to adjust my trigger. You have to remove the bottom metal screws which are also the screws that secure the barreled action to the stock.

In the Browning owners guide it simply said to snug the action screws back.

Pretty lame instructions- So I called Browning and told the tech what I had and he said the torque specs for that rifle was 65 in/lbs. for both front and rear. I asked again and he said that was it.

Does this sound high to ya'll? It's a wood stocked rifle. It does have rather large bottom metal around the screws which would distribute the weight across a broad surface I guess.

Do a search on = Torque recommendations and you should find a post I did with all of the torque
values for Gunsmithing.

65 inch pounds is a little high for wood without pillars,

And as AJ said use "Inch pounds" not foot pounds.

J E CUSTOM

 

[Seven Oaks]

Hi J.E.

I was unable to find that post your referred too. To make matters worse, I called Browning again this morning.

This Tech said they had no specification but used 35 in./lbs at the factory???

The mystery deepens. Good grief, you would think Browning would have their act together on something as simple as this.

 

[MontanaRifleman]

Here's JE's thread....

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f37/torque-recomendations-29756/#post201476

You dont want to torque too hard on wood or synthetic without pillars because they may eventually compress. I had a Ramline fiberglass stock that compressed so far that the tang screw came up through the reciever and interfered with my bolt.

-MR

 

[Seven Oaks]

Thanks guys. Appreciate the help.

D.

 

[J E Custom]

Here's JE's thread....

http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f37/torque-recomendations-29756/#post201476

You dont want to torque too hard on wood or synthetic without pillars because they may eventually compress. I had a Ramline fiberglass stock that compressed so far that the tang screw came up through the reciever and interfered with my bolt.

-MR

Thanks M R.

Someday I need to learn how to do that.

Thanks again
J E CUSTOM

 

[MontanaRifleman]

Thanks A.J.

I use a Wheeler Fat Wrench. I appreciate the article link as well. I feel better now.

I am looking at ordering one of those soon. How well does it work? The add for it says good to +or- 2 inch lbs. Does it have posiive adjustment clicks or a "that looks about right" dial to set the torque.

 

[MontanaRifleman]

Thanks M R.

Someday I need to learn how to do that.

Thanks again
J E CUSTOM

My pleasure JE, and thanks for your contribution. The search feature in this site lacks a little to be desired Maybe Len will give it an upgrade

 

[Seven Oaks]

Hi Montana,

Mine works just fine. In the instructions it says after use wind it back down to it's lowest setting so the internal springs won't give out.

It is set in 10 in/lbs increments. There is a slot with a small block that travels up and down that you align with numbers printed on the outside. The instructions say to center the little block on the desired poundage line, let's say For example 30 in/lbs is what you needed. You would center the block on the 30 in/lbs line., Half of it being above and below. If you wanted 35 in/lbs you would wind the bottom of the block even with the 30 lbs. line

The local gunsmith has a nice expensive one and the Fat wrench clicked at 50 in/lbs. and his showed 52 in/lbs. so there close.

I am satisfied with mine. If nothing else, everything is at least torqued to the same poundage.

Best,

D.

 

[Coyboy]

D, remember what we talked about in PM's, If the wood compreses enough on the browning, the front action screw will bottom out on the barrels thread tennon.

If those threads get flattened, that barrel may be permanent. Check the bottom of the hole and if it apears to be contacting the threads of the barrel shorten that screw.

 

[Seven Oaks]

Hi Jim,

I did and thank goodness its o.k. I didn't believe that first bird I talked to at Browning so I never ran the screws up to 65 in/lbs. only 45.

I pulled her apart and looked and they appeared to be sharp and there wasn't any marks on the end of the action screw to indicate that it got into the threads.

Wheeeew..

Thanks for the heads up but that is the first thing I thought of after you told me about it.

best,

D.