Bore sighting

[rawjuno]

I never use a bore sight unless I can't look down my barrel. I can't usually get things on target within a couple shots

 

[VinceMule]

Using a de-primed, fire-formed case in the chamber, look through the flash hole at the target at 100, or some other object. The size of the flash hole makes the job a lot easier(smaller peep sight).

 

[brcfo_outdoors]

I bought a laser unit when I was brand new to hunting and never will again. Most decent sized public ranges (at least near me) have steel once you get out to 200 yards or so, typically on some kind of berm/backstop. I shoot at 200 first, and spot my hits in the dirt, then use the reticle to get on the steel. Once I am on steel at 200, then I move back to 100 to dial in the zero. Saves a whole lot of effort over trying to figure out if I am even close to the target at 100, or shooting at 50 and having to move the paper target.

 

[hpmag308]

I have a laser. Put target at 25 yds always on paper at 100. From there simple. An i have pulled a few bolts but with a pump or lever that's not an option so the laser comes in handy

 

[hpmag308]

I worked as a RSO at PNTC for a few years, I've found the easiest way to zero is a clay pigeon on the back stop. Do a old school bore sighting with the rifle. Spot the impact, put crosshairs back on bullseye and then move the crosshairs to the impact while rifle is held steady. This in 1 or 2 shots will break clay pigeon and put you on paper.
The zero stop gives some issues when zeroing.

I do same except I draw big cross lines up with crosshairs that way you pretty much able to hold same place

 

[Papa762!!]

I have set up my bags at the end of the den and sighted on a brass doorknob at the end of the kitchen. I do like the humor of the neighbor's window though!

 

[Rum River]

When helping an inexperienced shooter zero their rifle I'll have them shoot at 25 yards vs doing the bore sight. It gives them a chance to get settled into the rifle for when we stretch out the yardage. Typical Minnesota deer rifle works out about 1" to 1 1/2" low at 25 for a 100 yard zero.

For myself I pull the bolt and look down the tube. Although, I still own an old Tasco collimator that actually is accurate enough to do well for non-bolt action guns.

Once watched a pair of fools at the range at which I used to be a member. Trying to zero their inline muzzle loaders - while at the same time experimenting with component combinations. They were monopolizing one of the few available benches, literally there for hours, on an advertised public sight-in day, complaining the whole time how expensive their chosen components were and how fast they were burning them up. I (among others) told them the obvious but they wouldn't listen.

It was the club president and one of the club officers.

 

[asd9055]

Back in the day, I had "store" mount my scope. He mounted it 90 degrees off (up and down became the left right). After that I acuired one of those old "half a scope" type of devices. Helped me for most but not all. I now have a lazer that is the "cartridge" type. Goes in the rifle like a loaded round. Works for me. I do that at my back yeard first. I have also done it looking through the barrel, but thats not always possible on semi auto.

 

[Rick Richard]

Using a de primed case in the chamber, look though the flash hole at the target at 100, or some other object. The size of the flash hole makes the job a lot easier(smaller peep sight).

Great idea

 

[milo-2]

What is the best way to bore sight an AR ?

I've watched a couple of these circuses, break it open, pull the bolt, try balance it on a range bag or something soft.
Throw a full pop can or can of spray paint on the ground at 90 yards and start firing.
10/22, same, but at 50 yards.

I boresight my rifles from my garage and use the screen door handle on the house across the street, 52 yards, never fails. I also use the edge of his windows to level up.

I have been around some pretty amusing sight-ins. 2-3 guys pulling the bolt and making adjustments to no avail. Stems from not a large enough backing paper.
I'm with another poster here in these cases, shoot farther out, 3-400 yards, pick the splash up, get the rifle close to that aimpoint, then walk it back. Shoot at dirt, no obstructions.

 

[ENGUNEER]

I always lock my rifle in a shooting rest and look down the bore at some natural environmental feature (ie, a stump, a rock with a white spot, etc.) several hundred yards away. Then I move the cross-hair to be on the same feature without moving the rifle. This will usually get me within a few inches at 100 yards. The further away the natural target is the better your bore sight accuracy.

 

[Mrvmax]

I've used both, the laser works as well as bore sighting to get on paper. Not sure how it would not work unless you don't have it centered in the bore. In fact, there is no way I can think of that it can't work if it's centered.

 

[memtb]

I bought a laser unit when I was brand new to hunting and never will again. Most decent sized public ranges (at least near me) have steel once you get out to 200 yards or so, typically on some kind of berm/backstop. I shoot at 200 first, and spot my hits in the dirt, then use the reticle to get on the steel. Once I am on steel at 200, then I move back to 100 to dial in the zero. Saves a whole lot of effort over trying to figure out if I am even close to the target at 100, or shooting at 50 and having to move the paper target.

I do similar (@home range & @ 50 yrds) with my Marlin lever gun. Anything with removable bolt…..get's the look through the bore method. memtb

 

[nealm66]

There definitely must be some laser sighters that work or they wouldn't exist and we probably don't notice those guys at a range but I definitely see some that are either faulty or not used correctly, show up at a couple different ranges that I shoot at