Beginner reloader setup

[A_Brandt]

A chronograph is essential in load development.

Got myself a garmin chronograph last year. I have a feeling that little device might've been my spark of inspiration and the wonderful/devious driver for this whole ordeal hahah

 

[slv hunter]

Oh yeah, welcome from Colorado

 

[A_Brandt]

Bought a RCBS RS3 press, thrower, balance scale, ram prime, deburrer, loading block, case lube, brushes
Redding trickler
Lyman trimmer
A while ago all used. Man said he'd take $85. I gave him $100 and I still felt bad.

Can't beat that, I'm trying my best to be conservative and find everything used I can!!! Seems like most of this reloading equipment is usually made well and made to last

 

[A_Brandt]

Some 308 powder

Balance scale - you will thank me.

Dry, walnut media. No stainless pins.


Walnut

Lyman Reloading Manual. My favorite.

Can I ask for the reasoning for the day tumbling with walnut specifically. This is prolly the biggest portion of reloading that I've seen is the most split amongst reloaders. Brass cleaning. I've heard multipleeee backings for wet with pins, wet with just cleaner, dry with all sorts of media and some sort of solution, dry with all sorts of media, just dry tumbling with soft media for 15 min, soaking cases in buckets either case solution, soaking cases in tubs of lube, just hand wiping clean. Seems like most of it has to do with keeping dies clean and brass consistent and repeatable while also taking consideration for not cleaning all of the carbon from inside the neck to help with the resizing process go smoother and improve grip on bullet in the neck. This is the topic where I am most "undecided".

And also what is the recommendation behind making sure to have a balance scale?

Thanks!

 

[MagnumManiac]

List still to get:
Forster Co-Ax Press
Powder funnel
Powder Trickelr
Dry or Wet Tumbler (plan on mostly hand wiping)
Seperator
Drier
Forster micrometer dies
Forster FL sizing dies
21st century nitrided sizing mandrel
Hornady OAL gauge
Hornady Comparator and Headspace gauge
Forster Primer
Primer tray
Trays
Lyman chamfer and deburrer
Scale check weights
Media for tumbler
Imperial sizing wax
Primer pocket and mouth case brushes
Loading tray and block
Rifle bullet cases

I can't remember how to put lines through words on here, so, I would suggest some of this list at this time is not necessary.
Not needed, nice to have in the future depending on need.
Forster Co-Ax press. Had one, not needed.
21st Century mandrel set. Not needed for beginners.
Hornady OAL gauge. Just buy callipers.

I find most innovation devices that are supposed to be superior to tried and tested well built presses merely are marketing.
You can take this as you like, but, as presses have become larger, more robust and tight tolerance devices, they make handloads just as good as co-ax or straight line presses.
Redding dies are perfectly set-up out of the box, all they require is polishing of the sizer button.
Forster dies are very good, however, their micrometer seater does like ANY stress from either compressed loads, or high neck tension. The Redding micrometer seater doesn't have this problem.
Many reloaders get exceptional accuracy and precision from standard dies, so this may sway you, maybe not.
How you set-up your dies is far more important than what brand they are.
There are many tricks to setting up your dies perfectly straight in your press due to how threads work. This has been tried to be eliminated by companies using non-threaded adaptors, does this make a difference? Maybe for those that don't screw the die in and tighten the lock ring correctly…

Cheers.

 

[nwmnbowhunter]

I can't remember how to put lines through words on here, so, I would suggest some of this list at this time is not necessary.
Not needed, nice to have in the future depending on need.
Forster Co-Ax press. Had one, not needed.
21st Century mandrel set. Not needed for beginners.
Hornady OAL gauge. Just buy callipers.

I find most innovation devices that are supposed to be superior to tried and tested well built presses merely are marketing.
You can take this as you like, but, as presses have become larger, more robust and tight tolerance devices, they make handloads just as good as co-ax or straight line presses.
Redding dies are perfectly set-up out of the box, all they require is polishing of the sizer button.
Forster dies are very good, however, their micrometer seater does like ANY stress from either compressed loads, or high neck tension. The Redding micrometer seater doesn't have this problem.
Many reloaders get exceptional accuracy and precision from standard dies, so this may sway you, maybe not.
How you set-up your dies is far more important than what brand they are.
There are many tricks to setting up your dies perfectly straight in your press due to how threads work. This has been tried to be eliminated by companies using non-threaded adaptors, does this make a difference? Maybe for those that don't screw the die in and tighten the lock ring correctly…

Cheers.

Agree on forster micrometer dies. Avoid them. Had way too many flare and jam up and cause issues.

Their sizing dies are great though!

 

[MagnumManiac]

Beam scales cannot be influenced by outside phenomenon like digital stuff can.
As long as they are clean and zeroed, it is difficult to get a wrong charge weight.
If you get in the habit of check weighing from you digital scale to your beam scale, you can catch when your electronic scale is out of calibration, this has saved me several times.

Cheers.

 

[jseandsje]

Can I ask for the reasoning for the day tumbling with walnut specifically. This is prolly the biggest portion of reloading that I've seen is the most split amongst reloaders. Brass cleaning. I've heard multipleeee backings for wet with pins, wet with just cleaner, dry with all sorts of media and some sort of solution, dry with all sorts of media, just dry tumbling with soft media for 15 min, soaking cases in buckets either case solution, soaking cases in tubs of lube, just hand wiping clean. Seems like most of it has to do with keeping dies clean and brass consistent and repeatable while also taking consideration for not cleaning all of the carbon from inside the neck to help with the resizing process go smoother and improve grip on bullet in the neck. This is the topic where I am most "undecided".

And also what is the recommendation behind making sure to have a balance scale?

Thanks!

Stainless pins are harder than brass.
Stainless pins will scour all carbon from inside neck. I want a little residue in the neck.
Got to dehydrate the cases.

Balance type scale is not digital. It's mechanical and relies solely on gravity and a mechanical calibration. It will save your butt if your digital decides to offset 5 charges into a 50 round batch. I don't like pulling bullets. Use the balance as an overcheck every 5 rounds.

 

[FEENIX]

I can't remember how to put lines through words on here, so, I would suggest some of this list at this time is not necessary.

Brother Tony, like this?

If so, highlight the text you want to strike through, click on the 3 vertical dots

for the drop-down, and then the strike-through icon

 

[A_Brandt]

Stainless pins are harder than brass.
Stainless pins will scour all carbon from inside neck. I want a little residue in the neck.
Got to dehydrate the cases.

Balance type scale is not digital. It's mechanical and relies solely on gravity and a mechanical calibration. It will save your butt if your digital decides to offset 5 charges into a 50 round batch. I don't like pulling bullets. Use the balance as an overcheck every 5 rounds.

I'll be sure to make the balance beam part of the gig. What are your thoughts on a resolution to making sure to have clean brass while having som residue still reside in the case neck?

 

[A_Brandt]

I can't remember how to put lines through words on here, so, I would suggest some of this list at this time is not necessary.
Not needed, nice to have in the future depending on need.
Forster Co-Ax press. Had one, not needed.
21st Century mandrel set. Not needed for beginners.
Hornady OAL gauge. Just buy callipers.

I find most innovation devices that are supposed to be superior to tried and tested well built presses merely are marketing.
You can take this as you like, but, as presses have become larger, more robust and tight tolerance devices, they make handloads just as good as co-ax or straight line presses.
Redding dies are perfectly set-up out of the box, all they require is polishing of the sizer button.
Forster dies are very good, however, their micrometer seater does like ANY stress from either compressed loads, or high neck tension. The Redding micrometer seater doesn't have this problem.
Many reloaders get exceptional accuracy and precision from standard dies, so this may sway you, maybe not.
How you set-up your dies is far more important than what brand they are.
There are many tricks to setting up your dies perfectly straight in your press due to how threads work. This has been tried to be eliminated by companies using non-threaded adaptors, does this make a difference? Maybe for those that don't screw the die in and tighten the lock ring correctly…

Cheers.

I was wondering what the "real world difference" would be on co-ax style would be versus say a rock chucker. Ik that having the interchangeable die blocks was a big sell to me at the start, not having to rethread dies in every time and try to get the depth on them correct. Only thing I could find was that the free float system is supposed to help align die to the case, there improved concentricity. Does it actually make a difference? Idk, but from my understanding with reloading research so far is there's no magic pill. But if you can chip away at minor details towards "optimum" results here and there that it all eventually adds up in the end. As for the dies, I'm not 100% on Forster. Just for the price and the option for micrometer it seemed intriguing. Found some reviews how the stem on them fit a lot more different variety of bullets better than compared to other dies. I'm totally totally totally open to recommendations for seating and sizing dies. Definitely want something with micrometer adjustment though and have always heard full length is the best option. Ik there is also a lot of stuff I have listed that isnt necessary but I'm not a half asser. Definitely an OCD freak, willing to put the research and time into my craft, and if I'm gonna do something I'll do it to the fullest extent of my capability to get the best outcome I possibly can. Of course baby steps along the way but being meticulous and detail oriented is part of my nature. I love to hear your "real world difference" on the co-ax vs say the long standing rock chucker. And also would be intruiged on also your thoughts when it comes to die selection. All this in mind I'm going to be shooting long range precision. Thank you for the advice and would love to hear back from you

 

[jseandsje]

I'll be sure to make the balance beam part of the gig. What are your thoughts on a resolution to making sure to have clean brass while having som residue still reside in the case neck?

The dry walnut and a tumbler is all you need. You will have a very thin layer in the neck after tumbling.

Others please chime in, but I have found that thin carbon film to be conducive to consistent bullet seating force

 

[A_Brandt]

The dry walnut and a tumbler is all you need. You will have a very thin layer in the neck after tumbling.

Others please chime in, but I have found that thin carbon film to be conducive to consistent bullet seating force

That's exactly what I've read. Most people relaying info on some carbon residue still being inside the neck have either recommended just hand wiping cases clean while others have recommended a quick dry tumble for 15-30 minutes. But the walnut over anything else for media is a good little tidbit that's getting written into my notes. What are you thoughts for a thorough wipe down versus atleast hitting the tumbler with walnut and what length of time is your sweet spot?

 

[A_Brandt]

Agree on forster micrometer dies. Avoid them. Had way too many flare and jam up and cause issues.

Their sizing dies are great though!

What has been your "go to" replacement for them on your setup then for some of your more "meticulous" die sets?