Bedding Fierce Rifle

[TucsonFX4]

Hey all. I should start by saying I don't have any experience bedding an action. I have successfully bedded a scope rail and enjoyed the process.

I have a Fierce Carbon Fury in 300 win mag and have been getting inconsistent (and frustrating) results during load work up. I have been trying to work up a load in the 200-212 grain range, but Fierce's "proof" test was done with a 165 grain TTSX. So maybe it doesn't like heavy bullets?? The bore and the magazine support long loads though.

I was looking at the action mounting/bedding and wondering if there's room for improvement. Take a look at the photos and let me know what you think.

 

[sedancowboy]

I faced the same exact problem with the same rifle earlier this fall. My solution was to bed/glue the recoil lug to the action with JB Weld and then bed the action as normal. It did solve the inconsistent
grouping issues. My solution is not Fierce approved and may void any warranty you have.

 

[tobnpr]

but Fierce's "proof" test was done with a 165 grain TTSX. So maybe it doesn't like heavy bullets??

I don't see that loaded factory ammunition is available with that bullet?
If that's the case, and the manufacturer is using handloaded ammunition where it's impossible for you to replicate their accuracy tests that's no bueno in my book. Should be a match grade, factory ammunition used so that results can be replicated.

If the action is being stessed, or moving under recoil- which is what bedding is intended to eliminate- it will manifest inaccuracy regardless of the ammunition. If it's capable of shooting accurately, it's not a bedding issue IMO.

The fact that you cannot confirm their test results leaves me skeptical- and the inconsistent (read- same load, differing results at target) results you're getting do indeed speak to a stock fitment issue in many cases. If bedding voids your warranty, I would contact Fierce to discuss- including the nature of the ammunition used for their accuracy testing before shipment.

 

[TucsonFX4]

I don't see that loaded factory ammunition is available with that bullet?
If that's the case, and the manufacturer is using handloaded ammunition where it's impossible for you to replicate their accuracy tests that's no bueno in my book. Should be a match grade, factory ammunition used so that results can be replicated.

This is what they used

VOR-TX® Rifle - Barnes Bullets

www.barnesbullets.com

165 ttsx in 300 win mag

 

[TucsonFX4]

I faced the same exact problem with the same rifle earlier this fall. My solution was to bed/glue the recoil lug to the action with JB Weld and then bed the action as normal. It did solve the inconsistent
grouping issues. My solution is not Fierce approved and may void any warranty you have.

Thanks for the insight, and that's encouraging to hear that it helped.

I am a little confused by bedding the recoil lug to the action and then bed the action to the stock. Are you talking about that plastic spacer up at the front action screw? Perhaps I just need a little simpler explanation

 

[Gregg C]

Just curious.... Where IS the recoil lug? I see a recess where the lug SHOULD be, just forward of the front action screw, but no lug. Part of the stock?

 

[sedancowboy]

Yours looks different than the one I bedded. It had a screw that held the steel piece in your stock to the action. Yours looks like that the bedding block is still in the stock? The thought process that I had was that there were two moving parts and I wanted the lug solid to the action so that movement was eliminated.
I would take pics and post them but the rifle is off in eastern MT on a hunt.

 

[TucsonFX4]

Just curious.... Where IS the recoil lug? I see a recess where the lug SHOULD be, just forward of the front action screw, but no lug. Part of the stock?

You are correct. There's a recess in the action, but the plastic spacer in the stock that the front of the action mounts to is flat (except where the raised bolt hole goes), so the recess serves no purpose and I'm not even sure what the plastic spacer is for. Perhaps as an alternative to bedding the action?

Can I bed on top of that and try to use the recess as a kind of reverse lug to accomplish the same thing? I feel like there's some room for improvement that may help with inconsistent groups.

 

[TucsonFX4]

Yours looks different than the one I bedded. It had a screw that held the steel piece in your stock to the action. Yours looks like that the bedding block is still in the stock? The thought process that I had was that there were two moving parts and I wanted the lug solid to the action so that movement was eliminated.
I would take pics and post them but the rifle is off in eastern MT on a hunt.

That's interesting that there's a difference. The spacer type piece (I assumed was plastic, but maybe metal) appeared to be fixed in place. Tomorrow I will try to see if it will pop loose or if it is permanently attached to the stock.

 

[Darryle]

That action is definitely moving around based on the "shiny" spots on the action and factory bedding.

I am glad that is you, that looks like a nightmare to bed in one fell swoop. Actually probably a pretty easy process, pictures make it look intimidating..

Good luck with the project and let us know the results.

 

[TucsonFX4]

That action is definitely moving around based on the "shiny" spots on the action and factory bedding.

I am glad that is you, that looks like a nightmare to bed in one fell swoop. Actually probably a pretty easy process, pictures make it look intimidating..

Good luck with the project and let us know the results.

I'm all ears on suggestions on how to approach a bedding job on this.

As I said earlier, I've never bedded an action before, though I'm a fairly confident DIYer so I feel like I could handle it with a little input and suggestions.

Thanks!

 

[Gregg C]

There is a really good video floating around, Richards Custom, I think, does an exceptional job at dissecting the process of rifle bedding. It ain't hard, although it can be somewhat stressful. It can't be that hard, I do it !

That looks like a challenge, for sure. It'll be fun!!

 

[Darryle]

I'm all ears on suggestions on how to approach a bedding job on this.

As I said earlier, I've never bedded an action before, though I'm a fairly confident DIYer so I feel like I could handle it with a little input and suggestions.

Thanks!

I am referring to all the dangly bits hanging off the bottom.

I have been using Johnson paste wax as a release agent but I misplaced the can and I couldn't find it locally. So I started using Mequiars, works really well. Using a 1" cheap paint brush to apply, let it flash off, buff off the excess and apply another coat repeating the process.

Then use MarineTex for your bedding compound. The anxiety of waiting to see if you got the release agent everywhere it needed to be is the biggest hurdle. Trust your process and give the bedding time to cure.

Some headless bolts, plastalina from hobby lobby to keep epoxy out of areas you don't want it and whatever release agent you are comfortable with. Go thru the process several times as a dry run until you are sure of your self, prep the stock and have at it.

 

[tobnpr]

Probably just the angle of the shot and lighting, but it looks like the area to right/bottom of the rear pillar might be proud of the pillar? The rear pillar needs to be flush or slightly proud of the glass around it.

Bedding is dramatically simplified when you already have factory installed pillars- this establishes the elevation of the receiver in the stock. It's as simple as removing adequate material (glass) everywhere else to allow for the thickness of the epoxy bedding.

Plenty of info online- this one (not sure if this is the one referenced above) is a good one, a bit different in that pillars are set at the same time as the receiver bedding.

Stress-Free Pillar Bedding

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He uses electrical tape stretched around the stock/action, I use surgical tubing- but the idea is the same. You want to avoid point loads and compress the receiver into the stock evenly. As I stated, the pillars will establish how your action lies in the stock (no need to wrap the barrel with tape due to this), but you want to make sure you've got the action bottomed out on both front and rear pillars.

A properly done bedding job can only help. Done incorrectly, will stress (warp) the action when the action screws are torqued.

At this point, Fierce has accuracy tested the rifle and it's met their requirement. I would recommend you first, grab a box of the factory ammo used for their testing and see if you can duplicate the results at the target. I'll add one more very important point, because we know nothing about you or your shooting skills... do you have the experience/ skills to shoot a lightweight magnum like this accurately? Not a dig by any means, but it's a fact that some shooters are recoil sensitive- and shooting cloverleafs with a 6 lb., .300 WM is a tall order. If this is your first lightweight magnum, might have someone else with that experience drive it to see if their results differ.

Not trying to dissuade you (well, as a smith- maybe a bit)- but unless this is your only rifle, get your first experience bedding something else before tackling a $4K rifle. If it were a rifle of unknown accuracy (unfired by the builder), it would merit a lot more investigation, beginning with borescoping the barrel/chambering. But, you've got a well known builder that's accuracy tested the rifle- and unless you think they're faking the targets- believe the target you're looking at. It's most likely not a problem with the rifle, more likely your handloads and trying to find the sweet spot...JMO