Anti-cant level

[Taylorbok]

If I am understanding your comment above that "as long as the reticle is level, does not matter if gun has a cant" this is not true.

A bullet leaves the barrel in a straight line, BUT that straight line must be up through the line of sight. For a normal 100 yard zero and a scope center 1.5" above the bore, that means the bullet intercepts the scope center line of sight TWICE. Once at 25-28 yards and again at 100 yards as gravity is pulling it straight down back through the line of sight. If your reticle is level, but the gun is canted, that means the bore line is off angle with the scope line of sight. If canted to the left, the straight line of the bore is going left, and it will NEVER come back. Can you "zero" this rifle? Yes, for that one distance, but if you shoot past 100, your bullet will be way left. To have a long range accurate gun, your reticle HAS to be perfectly level to a perfectly level bore.

Your understanding is correct. And you are technically correct in your statement but the error for 5 degree of cant at 1000 yards is 1.5"

 

[Sealesniper]

Not wanting to argue in anyway, but I have to politely disagree. Depending on the scope height from center axis of the bore to center of the scope, at 1.5" above center bore, a 1° cant will produce five (5) inches of lateral displacement at 1000 yards. A 5 degree cant would relate to more than 25 inches inches off at 1000 yards by my math. And we are only talking windage at this point. With cant, your shot will also be low, and it is exponential on how low it land depending on degree of cant as the bullet will not achieve the original vertical zero apogee.

 

[Sealesniper]

Best to do the work at the bench and get your reticle perfectly level with your bore axis. But the level is the easy part.

To make the shot, even with lots of practice, you need to judge wind, determine actual distance, control your nerves, control the rifle as probably not on a bench, and make an ethical shot.

 

[Taylorbok]

Not wanting to argue in anyway, but I have to politely disagree. Depending on the scope height from center axis of the bore to center of the scope, at 1.5" above center bore, a 1° cant will produce five (5) inches of lateral displacement at 1000 yards. A 5 degree cant would relate to more than 25 inches inches off at 1000 yards by my math. And we are only talking windage at this point. With cant, your shot will also be low, and it is exponential on how low it land depending on degree of cant as the bullet will not achieve the original vertical zero apogee.

If you are canting the scope also your math might be close, that's basically what perpetuates the myth that your scope must be mounted level. If the scope is mounted a touch off on the action it doesn't matter as long as it is held plumb. Here is a diagram with the correct math.

 

[FEENIX]

Looking for a quality (not to be confused with expensive) anti cant level that is easily visable while in shooting position. It will be used with a NF ATACR 5-25x56 f1. Rail or scope mounted just as long as I can see it without lifting my head. What are your thoughts?

To avoid a separate anti-cant indicator, I went with a scope mount with a built-in indicator on my last custom rifle. Below is what I used.

 

[marc357]

@Sealesniper - Great idea. My toughest part has been making sure the rifle is perfectly level when mounting a scope. Fitting a level on a flat spot on the action can be a bit of a challenge sometimes.

Just for getting the scope mounted level/ plumb to the rifle, I use the feeler gauge method. Works very well for me.
Then, to get the rifle plumb, there are always man made objects like the corner of a building that should be plumb (check if not sure), that one can align the reticle with and set a ring mounted level and tighten down.

 

[Rick Richard]

Just for getting the scope mounted level/ plumb to the rifle, I use the feeler gauge method. Works very well for me.
Then, to get the rifle plumb, there are always man made objects like the corner of a building that should be plumb (check if not sure), that one can align the reticle with and set a ring mounted level and tighten down.

Yep, I use an adjacent door frame.