Anti-cant level

Start buying them off Amazon and just return what you dont like. I find they all have different coloration and light transmission. On most of my practice and less critical rifles I use cheap ones. I use a cheap magnetic on one that sits on the back of the rail. Works perfectly. I like the lonestar precision off Amazon well under $20. I like the vortex standard not the pro model (low visibility) on my going to kill food rifles.
 
All the pros say you need them and I have them on two of my rifles and I never use them and have had zero issues hitting my desired target.
I'm sure there are people who can always hold their rifle perfectly level with no visual aid. (Skilled Dogs) My experience has been every shooter who used a level v no level at long range +500yds hits much more exact to where they wanted the bullet to impact. I have seen them many feet (totally miss a deer sized steel rectangle target) when out past 600yds, and then drill it perfectly when they actually used the level.
 
I'm sure there are people who can always hold their rifle perfectly level with no visual aid. (Skilled Dogs) My experience has been every shooter who used a level v no level at long range +500yds hits much more exact to where they wanted the bullet to impact. I have seen them many feet (totally miss a deer sized steel rectangle target) when out past 600yds, and then drill it perfectly when they actually used the level.
I see and understand why they say to use them but that's one thing I actually forget to even look at and just start shooting and have never had a issue to hit my target so I don't really worry about them.
It's not often I shoot past 1000 yards but this weekend we are going to try 1460 so I will test it out with and without at distance and see what happens.
 
@Sealesniper - Great idea. My toughest part has been making sure the rifle is perfectly level when mounting a scope. Fitting a level on a flat spot on the action can be a bit of a challenge sometimes.
Mark,

You can always verify level off your rail, with top of rings removed, across the flat of the ring base. Then lock your level to your barrel (or verify level with your action level) lock gun in the vice, verify level, then install and level scope.
 

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Mark,

You can always verify level off your rail, with top of rings removed, across the flat of the ring base. Then lock your level to your barrel (or verify level with your action level) lock gun in the vice, verify level, then install and level scope.
I have done that when I have a full length rail to work with. I just ran into this issue with an action with integrated 2 piece rails. It not a big deal as I just have to take the rings off and be careful not to shift the rifle when re-attaching. This is one of the reason why I like rings with integrated anti-cants. I also need to invest in a more stable vice.
 
Looking for a quality (not to be confused with expensive) anti cant level that is easily visable while in shooting position. It will be used with a NF ATACR 5-25x56 f1. Rail or scope mounted just as long as I can see it without lifting my head. What are your thoughts?
I run the Accuracy 1st levels on my ATACR and really like them.
 
Mark,

You can always verify level off your rail, with top of rings removed, across the flat of the ring base. Then lock your level to your barrel (or verify level with your action level) lock gun in the vice, verify level, then install and level scope.

I have done that when I have a full length rail to work with. I just ran into this issue with an action with integrated 2 piece rails. It not a big deal as I just have to take the rings off and be careful not to shift the rifle when re-attaching. This is one of the reason why I like rings with integrated anti-cants. I also need to invest in a more stable vice.
I shouldn't even bring it up because it always gets people mad.
As long as your reticle is plumb to gravity it doesn't matter if your rifle is canted below that. You could mount the scope on a 30* angle as long as you hold it that the reticle is plumb to gravity it's all good. (There is a slight error but it's so little that it get's lost in the noise)

This goes to say mount your scope any way you want as long as the reticle is level when you aim it and then make sure your bubble level matches.
 
If I am understanding your comment above that "as long as the reticle is level, does not matter if gun has a cant" this is not true.

A bullet leaves the barrel in a straight line, BUT that straight line must be up through the line of sight. For a normal 100 yard zero and a scope center 1.5" above the bore, that means the bullet intercepts the scope center line of sight TWICE. Once at 25-28 yards and again at 100 yards as gravity is pulling it straight down back through the line of sight. If your reticle is level, but the gun is canted, that means the bore line is off angle with the scope line of sight. If canted to the left, the straight line of the bore is going left, and it will NEVER come back. Can you "zero" this rifle? Yes, for that one distance, but if you shoot past 100, your bullet will be way left. To have a long range accurate gun, your reticle HAS to be perfectly level to a perfectly level bore.
 
Some rails and rings or uni its built in like my Spuhr.I never had a issue and mine stuck out a bit ,I pulled it off.I have a carpenters eye, lifetime builder
There is always the ability for human error, but being in construction my entire working life I can't help but look at plumb level Square everywhere I go.
 
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