Annealing in Nebraska?

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by Deviant, Aug 28, 2018.

  1. Deviant

    Deviant Well-Known Member

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    Im about to form some 6.5 SAUM from Bertram 7mm SAUM and I would like to have it annealed after I finish neck turning it. Is there anyone in Nebraska that has an AMP annealer that would do 100 rounds for me? I have been contemplating buying the new model but I just cant justify the cost for how much I shoot. Im not sure why but it seems impossible to find a smith or anyone to do any custom work in Nebraska. If I new enough people would send me brass I would gladly buy one and do it for them just to recover the cost of the machine over time but people here just don't have the gun mentality that they had when I lived in Kansas. It seems like most people here want an off the shelf gun and factory ammo.

    Thanks, Al
     
  2. Rick Richard

    Rick Richard Well-Known Member

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    Please let me know how this goes since I am in desperate need of 6.5 SAUM brass also. I missed the last Bertram offering and it looks like the next offering will not be that many either. Thanks, Rick
     
  3. Deviant

    Deviant Well-Known Member

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    Will do, It will be my first attempt at it. I have neck turned plenty of brass but never necked any down to a new caliber. At least this way I will know that I have consistent Neck thickness without getting it too thin.

    Al
     
  4. lancetkenyon

    lancetkenyon Well-Known Member

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    Why not just break out the cordless drill,, a deep socket and a MAP gas torch and take 10 minutes (5-6 sec each) to do it yourself?
     
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  5. Deviant

    Deviant Well-Known Member

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    I have absolutely no faith in that method. I am OCD when it comes to my brass and I have no accurate way of knowing if it has reached the correct temperature or not. And if you don't get it to the proper temperature for long enough you're just wasting your time.
     
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  6. jpfrog

    jpfrog Well-Known Member

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    I have an AMP 2 on order. I don't have the pilot for 6.5saum or 7saum, but if you order it, mail it to me with your brass, I'll anneal it for you and send the pilot back with you.

    That said, the machines are due to ship mid-September-ish, so it'd be a wait. Also, I've never used the machine before...I'd be using some of my "random" .308 brass for practice.
     
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  7. Deviant

    Deviant Well-Known Member

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    I was kind of looking for something local so I could just drop it off and pick it up. I'll keep it in mind though if nothing else turns up nearby. Thanks for the reply.
     
  8. jpfrog

    jpfrog Well-Known Member

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    No problem- hope you can find something local before then, but if not, happy to help out. I didn't say it before, but I wouldn't charge as long as you picked up the cost of the pilots and shipping. It's a learning experience for the first thousand pieces I do or so, right? :D
     
  9. Deviant

    Deviant Well-Known Member

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    Sounds good and I appreciate the offer. It seems like a pretty simple and straightforward process from watching the videos.

    Thanks, Al
     
  10. 26Reload

    26Reload Well-Known Member

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    I think there a problem......because of the way the world spins and Nebraska is kind of in a weird spot....you cannot anneal in Nebraska........sorry...your gonna have to move.....
     
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  11. jasent

    jasent Well-Known Member

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    How do you know the correct temp? I know everyone has an opinion on this but if you actually do the research on metallurgy you will learn than anealing brass temp depends on the purity of the brass. The range is from 400f-1100f depending on impurities and their amounts and also how much it has been work hardened. Brass cases are made from recycled brass and tho each company has its own tolerances none of them test purity.
    After much research I just aneal every loading. I bring brass up to oxidizing temps( color change, 500-600f ) and make sure that color(temp range) doesn’t go past the shoulder more than 1/4”. My brass dosent get work hardened much because I aneal every loading. I aneal by hand with my fingers and a torch. Dosent take much time to get this down and very consistent results. This way you will burn your fingers before you over do it but when I do it I don’t ever burn my fingers. It’s done before the head gets too hot to hold. Completely fool proof.
     

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  12. 26Reload

    26Reload Well-Known Member

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    Jasent...thats a bit far stretching.......fools abound....
    The only time I annealed I did fingers....thats damned hot if you don't let go fast enough....and if you have nerve problems maybe you don't feel the heat until too late......
    But another question....can annealing be done after all the prep work....and does it work better or worse be done after all prep work...i mean before putting primers in also(don't forget the fool proof)
     
  13. jpfrog

    jpfrog Well-Known Member

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    My understanding is that it is done after prep, before sizing. If you only prep the first time and do not require additional prep after that, each additional firing you would deprime, clean, anneal, size, clean again to remove any residual lube, then prime/charge/seat.
     
  14. 26Reload

    26Reload Well-Known Member

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    I deprime, clean, lenght size, trim....
    so i could get away with annealing now...
    then check lenghts, prime, powder and load....