That may have been the link I clicked on, very informative. Thank you for posting it. That is why I like this site so well, someone always post something in every article that I learn from. I think I'm going with the EP Integrations 2.0, not because it is better but I can afford and justify it. The AMP is by far the better choice but I'm not needing something that expensive for what I do.
Annealing? How do YOU do it? How often?
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Good choice!! It just plain works!
jake545
Well-Known Member
Care to share how you built the induction annealer? Or at least some pics?
I was watching some YouTube videos this evening and there are some videos on there on how to build an induction annealer.
I've watched a few videos on the EPI 2.0…I may grab one as well. From what I can tell, it's not even that the AMP is a "far better choice" as you say, but depending on how you'll use it…is just as important. I'd be willing to bet the consistency is practically identical once you figure out how much time to leave the cases on with the EPI 2.0 unit…and can run at a higher volume.
The AMP is a great device, no argument…maybe even have one, one day. But it's certainly not the only way to get excellent, consistent results…especially for the money.
Yes firing case effects the entire case. The most is at the neck area. I would lose cases in 3 to 5 firing without annealling. After annealing and only once at that time, I wouldn't lose a case until the primer poctet goes. Now I set up to anneal everytime. Consistent is the name of the game.I don't anneal either. I have tried it and didn't see any appreciable increase in case life or accuracy. I usually get 4 or 5 loads out of commercial brass and 6 to 8 out of military brass. The pressures and expansion that causes the need to anneal the case neck affects the entire case not just the neck.
Roperboy87
Well-Known Member
so like your running a very hot load if that's all the firing you are getting. But that would only be my guess. I find that annealing really benefits in getting better sd/es and brass life.I don't anneal either. I have tried it and didn't see any appreciable increase in case life or accuracy. I usually get 4 or 5 loads out of commercial brass and 6 to 8 out of military brass. The pressures and expansion that causes the need to anneal the case neck affects the entire case not just the neck.
6MM06AI
Well-Known Member
I just bought the Amp anneal er along with the tools to go inside for the brass. Wasn't cheap, but I don't care, have a lot of money so I spent it on the Amp anneal er. I'm excited to try it out. It should be here by February 2nd.
Thanks for the advice! Can't wait to try it out
Ted
Thanks for the advice! Can't wait to try it out
Ted
My thoughts exactly plus like another member on here (I like to fool around and find out also
). I think it will be perfect for me.
It'll be my 3rd annealing process experimentMy thoughts exactly plus like another member on here (I like to fool around and find out also
Having fun with my current project now, the homemade magnetic induction type. Works very well, and processes a reasonable amount of brass in short order, very consistently. It too has its cons (swapping out coils every 15-20 pieces of brass. The EPI unit doesn't seem to have any real noticeable limitations. Maybe those of you who have had one for a while, can chime in. Pros/cons with EPI unit(s)?
There are no real cons as I mentioned before, "it just plain works". Just keeping a log maybe of the time setting for your different cartridges but it's not even necessary as long as you do the dark room glow test. I've got it and had it 2 years now.It'll be my 3rd annealing process experiment
Maybe those of you who have had one for a while, can chime in. Pros/cons with EPI unit(s)?
VenatusDominus
Well-Known Member
Here is a video of my homemade induction annealer. It uses an Arduino Uno controller and an infrared sensor to determine when the case begins to glow and terminate the annealing. The amount of glow is adjustable to achieve more or less annealing. It cost me about $300 when I built it in 2021. All parts from Amazon except the old computer case I used to house the project in. There is a very long thread (167 pages and counting) on AccurateShooter.com with instructions on basic to more advanced builds like mine. Some even incorporate auto feeders. The end of my video show me annealing both 5.56 Nato and 300 Weatherby. I went with the IR sensor because I have thousands of .223/5.56 brass of various manufactures. To get a consistent anneal based on time, you need consistent metal qualities and there can be up to 100% difference in time between different head stamp brass of the same caliber. I did not want to have to sort the thousands of rounds I have by head stamp.
Link to thread on AccurateShooter.com:
My build:
Link to thread on AccurateShooter.com:
My build:
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