700 Barrel Removal at Standstill

[Susquatch]

I think one of the lessons I took from this ordeal was "thread locker" can become "thread sealer" which then "prevents" penetrating oils/products from seeping down the threads. When a renowned gunsmith has to "chirp" his vise a second time to secure the barrel, that is telling me "HOLY COW" that bugger was "locked" in place really bad. In 99.99% of cases without thread locker, I bet the penetrating products will help just to facilitate the release of the barrel.

What I would like to see is someone to take that penetrating oil/product test and use thread locker on the testing material and then see the effectiveness of the penetrating oil/products. Whole different scenario.

Hahaha.... We are both on the same page!

I think you are dead nuts right. The red loktite probably does become a very effective sealer. But, in your particular case your solvent was able to penetrate the joint and seeped out the bottom. Therefore, I believe it can be done with the right solvent.

I called Loktite yesterday and talked to one of their Tech Reps. He said that red loktite is a thermo plastic. Heating it is the most effective way to get a fastner off. But we all knew that already.

I persisted and asked specifically about Solvents. He said that a chlorine based brake-cleaner (chloro-anything) used out-doors might work. I had some Brakleen handy so I tried it. There is no doubt that it reacts with red loktite - it was visibly active! So I plan to try a large barrel sized bolt next week to see what happens. I have high confidence that it will work given enough applications and enough time. The stuff evaporates pretty darn fast though so the trick will probably be getting enough in there with enough applications to soak all the way through.

Yes, there is hope......

Also, I've been giving some thought to your wheeler barrel vice. I really don't think you need to buy another vice. The Wheeler is plenty big enough. All it needs is a steel sandwich block to take the aluminium sleeves. There is no way that the four little 1/2" machine screws in the Brownells vice can deliver the same clamping force as those two huge one inch nuts on the Wheeler design. A 1" fine thread bolt delivers 42,200 pounds VS just 10,000 for one 1/2 screw (20k for two) (both same grade). Consider just making a steel version of the oak blocks for your wheeler. This can even be done on a drill press if you don't have a mill. It will save you some coin and space on your work table. You might recall me saying that I have both. I have a home made clone of the Wheeler and I also have a genuine Brownells. I only used the Brownells once. My Wheeler Clone does all my work because it is much handier and easier to use. At some point, I'll make a steel block for it.

 

[ntsqd]

A ways back in this thread I gave a brief description of how I made some aluminum pillow blocks (almost exactly a barrel vise insert) for a sway-bar. I can go into detail if it helps any. And adjust the process to work in a drill press instead of a mill.

As a thread sealant red thread locker is imperfect because I've tried using it that way. Inconsistent results was my experience. Lock-tite makes a dedicated thread sealant (545), that coincidentally is red, that works far better in that use.

Could be that enclosing the action in a plastic bag and taping it down after spraying the brake cleaner et. al. would slow down the evaporation rate enough?

 

[D-mon]

You can use the locktite activator to dilute old set Red and green locktite:

https://www.fruugo.co.nz/loctite-7649-activator-and-aerosol-150ml-garage-equipment-142479-surface-prep/p-14244151-29702441?language=en&ac=google&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7djep7-c7wIVVSQrCh0ekwMzEAQYBCABEgIIEfD_BwE

I know it does not make sense when you read the description on the label, but I use it to clean the red or green locktite that spilled out and dried. Also when undoing parts seized with locktite, I use it to clean up the old locktite stuck in the threads. Try it on an old bolt and nut stuck together first. Once you undo them, spread some on the dried locktite and see how it goes. How ever I am not sure that it can penetrate deep on a long threaded part in place.

You can also leave the bolt and nut stucked with locktite in a sealed container with acetone inside for about a week. And it seems that the acetone starts attacking the locktite and dissolves it.

 

[rakkikoira]

Looking at the photo of the the clamp, would there have been less compression of the clamp if the barrel had been clamped end-grain on rather than cross-grain. Look at old factory floors, many were build of end grain blocks that never showed wear from rolling equipment after a hundred years.

 

[Wrenches]

One more option. Send me the barreled receiver and I will remove your barrel. Just provide the return shipping.