300wm loaders help me

[Shane1]

First thanks for taking the time to help me' . I'm shooting a rem 700 5r 300wm. Nosler or Winchester brass, h1000, fed 215. I have no pressure signs in the head area, primers are not flat, no marks, I trim the brass to minimum. Extraction is smooth. Problem is I can't rechamber a fired case or it will stick in the chamber. 80% of the time, that puts neck sizing out. I try to just bump the shoulder a couple thousandths to head space on shoulder but the cases that won't rechamber after firing have to be fl sized with a heavy cam over just to get them to chamber at all. I want the brass to last as long as possible. Is there something I should be measuring that may have nothing to do with shoulder area. The area above the belt is .311 to .312 I don't know what reamer specs allow in that area. Gun has less then 100 rounds, I can't see any carbon build up in the neck/throat area with bore scope. It would be much easier to minimally fl size instead of the Max I have to. Could diff hard ness of brass cause this? Or maybe my fl die or shell holder? When I have to do the hard can over fl size measuring from head to datum line is diff from case to case by a couple thousandths which is why I was wondering about brass hardness. Or it could not even be needed if the shoulder is not where the case prob is.

 

[Broz]

Could be a chamber that needs polished. Any signs of things that could be holding the brass?

Jeff

 

[boomtube]

If you can easily extract, re-chamber and again extract a fired case but not a resized one your problem is a lack of sufficent sizing, not the chamber. If you can easily extract a fired case but not rechamber and extract it again your chamber's likely out of round or has a bulged side; both are VERY rare!

 

[Shane1]

I'll look at the brass close and report back. I can extract but not rechamber, if I do the case stays and will not extract again. I have to tap it out with cleaning rod.not every time but more then half. If the chamber was out of round would the brass be out of round ? Could I measure that by spinning the case and take measurements in multiple places? If there is a bur in the chamber how does one polish that out? Thanks guys.

 

[Shane1]

The brass looks fine. I will paint a whole case with a sharpie and see where it is hitting and let ya'll know.

 

[Broz]

The brass looks fine. I will paint a whole case with a sharpie and see where it is hitting and let ya'll know.

Good Idea, also know it is not rare to have problems with the factory ejector claw of a 700. Or do they tap out pretty hard?

Jeff

 

[CogburnR]

I have found that if I use an Innovative collet die on the cases they will usually fit without full length resizing. The collet die sizes the case right in front of the belt.

 

[Shane1]

They tap out easy, my daughter packed off my sharpie so it may be a bit before I can do that. I've heard good things about the collet die and that could fix my problem if the case is hitting above the belt. Can you visually see a problem with extractors on remingtons.my other guns have been converted to m16 style extractors but I've never had a problem with a rem 700 till now. I'm thinking the chamber is slightly large right in front of the belt area, can anyone measure a fired case near the belt so I can compare. I have some that measure .512 they fit and some at .513 that will not chamber, how the hell are the cases growing bigger then my chamber? Should I polish the chamber slightly? These are measured after firing not re sized. I could see how sizing could push material right in front of belt but I don't understand how they could be a thou bigger then the chamber before sizing. Maybe the chamber has a small portion cut to .513 and part at .512. If so polishing may help??

 

[Shane1]

Painted the whole case, they are hitting right above the belt. If I spin the case just in front of belt with calipers they are .512 to .5125 half thou out of round. It's a very small spot by the belt where paint is rubbed off. Should I polish it, live with it, if polish what would you recommend to make it round, I don't want to polish the half thou bulge bigger. Collect die would do it. I don't think the shoulder needs pushed back at all it didn't rub any paint off the shoulder. ?????

 

[CogburnR]

I ended up polishing mine right above the belt. I turned the belt off, drilled and tapped the case, mounted it on a 1/4 rod, lubed the case shoulder, and put a small line of fine valve grinding compound right above the belt where the shiny spots came and spun it in the chamber with a drill for a short time. Then I cleaned the crud out and used some flitz for a finer polish in the same area. I can't measure any change in diameter in the cases, the cases fired in the chamber before I polished the area measure the same size as the cases fired in the chamber after polishing. Close to .513"

Extraction however is much better. This is in a M70CRF Laredo 300WM, extraction was pretty sticky right when the bolt would start to move back even with light loads. Now it is not with 75.5g RL22 and a 180NBT which is fairly hot.

The case would fit in the chamber again after using the Innovative die but it didn't make any difference in ease of extracting the fired case.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

I ended up polishing mine right above the belt. I turned the belt off, drilled and tapped the case, mounted it on a 1/4 rod, lubed the case shoulder, and put a small line of fine valve grinding compound right above the belt where the shiny spots came and spun it in the chamber with a drill for a short time. Then I cleaned the crud out and used some flitz for a finer polish in the same area. I can't measure any change in diameter in the cases, the cases fired in the chamber before I polished the area measure the same size as the cases fired in the chamber after polishing. Close to .513"

Extraction however is much better. This is in a M70CRF Laredo 300WM, extraction was pretty sticky right when the bolt would start to move back even with light loads. Now it is not with 75.5g RL22 and a 180NBT which is fairly hot.

The case would fit in the chamber again after using the Innovative die but it didn't make any difference in ease of extracting the fired case.

I've had to clean up the back of a couple of belted mag chambers too. Usually a bit of 1000 grit wet or dry and a brush/extension with good oil will clean up the problem pretty quickly. One was a win in 375 h@h, the other was a ruger in 7mag.

 

[Bart B]

I don't understand why, even with a rough chamber finish, a belted case couldn't be removed easily. Especially when it's loaded with a normal, safe, max load. They all spring back a thousandth or more from chamber dimensions so extraction is easy. But a really rough one may be a different issue.

However, if neck only sizing is used, and a case has been reloaded several times, this might happen. Full length size them setting the fired case shoulder back a couple thousandths. Belted cases typically shoot more accurate resized this way anyway.

If the ridge a few thousandths in front of the belt's causing interference in the chamber, that may be part of the problem. You'll need a collet die to size that part back down to original body diameter for best chambering; accuracy, too. Get one from Innovative Technologies - Reloading Equipment Done right, one can get 20 or so reloads per .300 Win Mag case. Use a full length bushing die from Redding or RCBS and no expander ball to minimize neck sizing work hardening the brass too much.

 

[Shane1]

I really appreciate the help guys. Now I guess it's decision time.

 

[Broz]

I just measured 4 fired cases tight right above the belt from my 300 win. I did this with just a set of calipers. Mine measure .511" to .5115" My sized loaded rounds are maybe .0005" under this. I use a Redding body die and stepped shell holders. I only bump shoulders back .001 to .0015" Necks are sized in a Redding competition bushing neck die for a .002" of neck tension. I anneal every time and no expander is used at all.


If you have seen enough of them you can see when a 700 ejector clip is worn. But I usually just have a m-16 extractor installed when they need to be replaced. I went years with zero problems with the factory extractor. The in one year I had to fail. They would leave a fired case in the chamber and tapping it out was easy so I knew it was the ejector not holding properly. On both of these rifles it was a once in a while problem. I wrote that off to the inconsistency in the actual case rims where the ejector grabs them.

I used a Lee collet die on one rifle. I didn't care for the lines this die left on the necks. So I have stayed away from them. Other higher quality collet dies could be different. That I can't say as I have no experience with them. I have found Redding comp. bushing dies to my liking and with them I plan to stay.

Jeff