300 WSM Nosler Brass

[trclements]

I have been reading this forum for a while and I have a question.

So I just bought a Tikka T3 Stainless Hunter in 300 WSM. I reload so I wasn't worried about the cost of the ammunition. I got this to be used as an elk rifle to reach out to 500 yards or so. I have some Winchester Brass I am using and after 2 loads there is already a pressure ring showing at the base of the brass. I have heard that Nosler Brass is better and you should be able to get a lot more reloads per brass but it is more expensive.

Here is what I don't understand. Nosler brass for the 300 WSM is $60 for a box of 25 or $2.40 per brass from MidwayUSA. Or they sell Nosler trophy grade ammunition loaded with 180 grain accubonds (which is the same I am handloading) for $51.00 a box of 20 or $2.55 per round. How is it possible that they only charge 15 cents more for the bullet, powder, and primer? It is basically cheaper to buy their ammunition and just shoot it as practice ammo than to get the empty brass.

What brass do you suggest for a 300 wsm to maximize the amount of reloads per casing without breaking the bank?

 

[speeders]

This is what I see from Remington, Winchester and Federal Brass out of my rifle, regardless if it is min or max load? This is out of a factory Remington 700. I'm pretty sure i would see the same results with Nosler Brass.

 

[winmag]

I choose to shoot Nosler (Norma) brass in my custom 300WSM. It's never fired a factory round of any kind.
Nosler (Norma) is just flat out great brass. No ifs ands or buts about it.
***However, I buy it from the pro shop, which is right down the road from my house, & get Noslers "seconds" or "blems" for a lot less $$$.

Plus I have a "cousin-in-law" who works at Nosler, so occasionally (once-twice a year) I get an even bigger discount.

I use mostly once fired Fed Fusion factory brass for 2 of the 270WSM's I load for, & Win Nickel brass for my dads 270WSM. Both hold up just fine, even to "warm" loads.

 

[Tumbleweed]

Nosler brass is very true, consistent brass and lends itself to accuracy with less work. However I have found that it is softer than most other brass. It can lie to you and show pressure signs that won't appear on say Remington brass. If you run mild loads you should be very happy with Nosler.

 

[trclements]

So if I am seeing the lines on my brass like in the picture that Speeders posted, should I be okay to still reload it? I was taught that you shouldn't reload brass with those pressure lines. Are there other signs that I should be using instead?

I have a 270 win I also reload from and all the winchester and remington brass I use ends up showing those pressure lines after 1 or two firing. I did buy some cheap closeout PMC ammo for it probably 10 years ago and that brass has been awesome. I have reloaded that brass probably 5 or 6 times without any pressure lines forming on the sides of the cases. If the nosler or norma brass is the same I would be more willing to dish out the money for their brass, but not if it is going to only last 2 or 3 rounds.

 

[rinodods]

I get those lines after the fist shot in two different 300WSM barrels and have seen the same in a 270WSM. I've got several reloads on both. I cut one of the 300WSM's in half after quite a few just to take a look. I didn't see any thinning in that area. Near as I can tell it just looks funny. gun)

 

[geargrinder]

Those lines look like a sloppy cut factory chamber not a sign of poor brass.

 

[rinodods]

Those lines look like a sloppy cut factory chamber not a sign of poor brass.

I kinda thought that the first time I saw it. Two of them were factory barrels and the other is a McGowen. Didn't seem to matter if they were loaded hot or not. Actually all three got pretty tight in the chamber after one firing as well. After two you pretty much had to full length size again.

 

[Southwind]

I have been using Win brass in 300 wsm for the last nine years and can not complain about the results. I suspect you are seeing something else but what is your load? Have you run it on Quickload?

Pressure signs can be deceiving but how do the primers look? Are you experiencing stiff bolt lift or sticky cases? Any other marks on the brass?

 

[farout]

I always thought this had to do with the fact that the cartridge actually expands to confirm tightly to the chamber as the gasses are expanding and then contracts after the gases leaves the barrel, the brass then cools and springs back some from the chamber wall so that is is easy to extract. I belief is that the ring is showing the very back of the cartridge where the brass is thicker and did not expand to seal against the chamber wall. This is also the general area where case separation occurs, but that does not usually show on the outside of the case.

I don't think this is the same as the pressure ring you seen in front of a belted magnum's belt. That is there due to the way the belt is used to headspace the case.

 

[NavyChief]

Make no mistake that is a pressure sign and one that would have me a little concerned. It may not be a sure sign of a future case head separation but it is a sign of pressure. What has caused it is another story. No chance I reload that case without taking a new Nosler case, or ten, and getting some case head measurements before I felt comfortable going on. I have a Kimber 8400 WSM and two FNH TSP XP rifles in 300 WSM and none show those signs without very hot loads. I shoot nothing but handloads in all my WSM rifles and either Nosler or Lapua brass. I'm not a brass "snob" I just like opening a case of brass and being able to load them right away with no case prep or weighing and sorting. Both types of brass have always provided me with good accuracy and long life as well and they seem to be cheaper in the long run. Winchester brass used to provide me with great life as long as I didn't get ridiculous with charges, but something changed less than a decade ago and that brass is just different. I still have some very old Winchester brass in 270 Win, 243 Win and 338 Win that has more loadings than it probably should but I refuse to throw away good brass until it is time to do so. I also loved Federal brass, but I just can't find it anywhere anymore unless I want to pay Nosler prices and the Federal brass requires sorting and full-length sizing and prep work as well. Good luck and if you don't have any new brass to compare it with I have a couple of unopened boxes and I'll break the seal if you need me to.