300 WSM factory ammo for Deer

[Bigeclipse]

Hey all,
first id like to apologize for all the threads ive started. I do try to research before I make a new thread to avoid making duplicate threads but have not had much luck on this.

I am wondering what factory ammo you all might recommend for hunting deer ony(for now). I know it depends on the range I will be hunting them so I will say less than 200 yards would be typical with a rare chance at a 400+ yard shot. So the bullets id say would be more important to function at 25-200 yards. I know the 300WSM is a bit overkill for this range but I do shoot once in a while at the 450+ ranges as well. That being said, im looks for info on brand, weight bullet, type of bullet.
I know its tough to get good exit holes/vital shock destruction from a powerful gun at close ranges, this is why I am asking you experts on which bullets would be best for deer at the closer ranges to get decent expansion.

Also one last question, will the leupold bases and rings (ones that have the windage adjustment in the back) hold up to the 300 WSM. I had them on my 7mm mag and they seemed to do fine.
Regards,

Brett

 

[rscott5028]

Most of the hunting ammo in the 150-180 gr category should meet that requirement. Fed, Nosler, Win, Rem, Barnes, Black Hills, HSM...

You might try HSM with the 185 Berger.

It really comes down to the one that shoots consistently well in your rifle.

It doesn't take much to kill a deer if you hit where you aim.

-- richard

 

[Bigeclipse]

Any opinions on the leupold bases and rings with windage adjustment on a magnum rifle holding zero?

 

[rscott5028]

I prefer a good picatinny rail for a bunch of reasons.

As to your question... if they'll hold zero with 7RM, they shoud be fine with 300WSM.

-- richard

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

Any opinions on the leupold bases and rings with windage adjustment on a magnum rifle holding zero?

Heck, I've got leopold on my 30 rum and they haven't budged in over 500 rounds. The best way to get leopold to stay put is to set them to coarse windage by boresighting neutral, then loc-tite the **** thing together and pull it gown good. I wouldn't go beuhler though, as I had them on my 7stw when I first got it and they wouldn't torque down enough for any purchase on the scope. I do like the weaver or picatinny type bases, but they aren't as good looking on certain pipes.

 

[Bigeclipse]

Heck, I've got leopold on my 30 rum and they haven't budged in over 500 rounds. The best way to get leopold to stay put is to set them to coarse windage by boresighting neutral, then loc-tite the **** thing together and pull it gown good. I wouldn't go beuhler though, as I had them on my 7stw when I first got it and they wouldn't torque down enough for any purchase on the scope. I do like the weaver or picatinny type bases, but they aren't as good looking on certain pipes.

are you saying loc-tite everything? as in.... the bases to the gun, the windage screws to the rear base and then the ring screws? or just the bases to the gun? I usually have the local gunsmith bore sight it as I have no idea how or what tools you need and he does it free. Not sure if he loc-tites things though. Are you talking the loc-tite that is basically permanent or the semi-permanent....I believe there are two kinds...red color and blue. Not sure which one is which.

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

are you saying loc-tite everything? as in.... the bases to the gun, the windage screws to the rear base and then the ring screws? or just the bases to the gun? I usually have the local gunsmith bore sight it as I have no idea how or what tools you need and he does it free. Not sure if he loc-tites things though. Are you talking the loc-tite that is basically permanent or the semi-permanent....I believe there are two kinds...red color and blue. Not sure which one is which.

Yes, base screws, windage screws, and ring screws. Use blue loc-tite as red will be a bear if you ever want to tear it down. Make sure all threads are good and dry, and a drop or two per screw is enough. You don't have to have your gun-smith loc-tite it after the bore sight, simply only take off or back up one of the windage screws at a time.

You can bore-sight yourself with a bulls-eye target at 100 yards. Simply look down the bore and zero the bore to the target, then move your scope to that zero without moving the rifle. If done correctly you are already on paper at 100. You can use a collimator too, but they don't work well with false muzzles(brakes, etc.) and are slower so I don't bother.

 

[Bigeclipse]

Yes, base screws, windage screws, and ring screws. Use blue loc-tite as red will be a bear if you ever want to tear it down. Make sure all threads are good and dry, and a drop or two per screw is enough. You don't have to have your gun-smith loc-tite it after the bore sight, simply only take off or back up one of the windage screws at a time.

You can bore-sight yourself with a bulls-eye target at 100 yards. Simply look down the bore and zero the bore to the target, then move your scope to that zero without moving the rifle. If done correctly you are already on paper at 100. You can use a collimator too, but they don't work well with false muzzles(brakes, etc.) and are slower so I don't bother.

Thanks! this is all great advice. I cannot wait to get to the range suday! by the way...
I have heard many ways people break in their new rifles....do you have an opinion on that?

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

Thanks! this is all great advice. I cannot wait to get to the range suday! by the way...
I have heard many ways people brake in their new rifles....do you have an opinion on that?

The 300 wsm really shouldn't need a brake, but they are sometimes useful for extended renge time with a rifle.
I have a boss on my 300 win, but don't have my 300 ultra, 338win or 375 h@h braked, so it's really your show on this. There are guys here that'll help you but you may want to see what your local guy will put on first. You've got to remember a brake ****es off nearby people from the noise and will make it louder for you too, so I'd shoot the rifle first to see if it NEEDS a brake.

 

[Bigeclipse]

The 300 wsm really shouldn't need a brake, but they are sometimes useful for extended renge time with a rifle.
I have a boss on my 300 win, but don't have my 300 ultra, 338win or 375 h@h braked, so it's really your show on this. There are guys here that'll help you but you may want to see what your local guy will put on first. You've got to remember a brake ****es off nearby people from the noise and will make it louder for you too, so I'd shoot the rifle first to see if it NEEDS a brake.

haha sorry I spelled that wrong, corrected now....I meant break-in the new rifle barrel....not....get a muzzle brake. Sorry for the confusion!

 

[Lefty7mmstw]

haha sorry I spelled that wrong, corrected now....I meant break-in the new rifle barrel....not....get a muzzle brake. Sorry for the confusion!

I don't have a break-in for rifles other than don't get it filthy to start with. I've tried the shoot, clean stuff, and just shot other rifles, and it doesn't really matter. You've already got the proof round down the pipe, so shoot a couple to zero, swab it out, and start shooting.

 

[D.ID]

I don't have a break-in for rifles other than don't get it filthy to start with. I've tried the shoot, clean stuff, and just shot other rifles, and it doesn't really matter. You've already got the proof round down the pipe, so shoot a couple to zero, swab it out, and start shooting.

Yep what he said.............and don't overheat it if you can help it.

 

[baldhunter]

I don't shoot factory stuff,but I really like the 165gr Hornady Interbond in mine.You might try some of their stuff.

 

[texas]

Nosler 180 Accubon is what I'm using in my AR 300wsm upper.