270 Brass sorting

[Tim Sharp]

I guess next question if R-P is intermingled with W-W/Win, are they close enough alike that the difference in the result is minute based on that one component being different?
Obviously this is for a WT hunting rifle. Maybe 400 yd shot. While premium accuracy is always the goal, bench rest accuracy not required.

As always, thanks for sharing your experience/knowledge.

RB,

R-P and Win/W-W are different. R-P is generally thicker and heavier, thus making the internal volume smaller. Although similar, an adjustment of approximately .4% difference in powder charge weight will be needed to bring them to similar performance. For example, a charge of 50 grains with R-P brass, will require an adjustment of the charge to 50.2 for the Win/W-W brass. I have found this .4% modification to be an accurate adjustment across the scale of legacy hunting cartridges.

 

[Rflshootr]

I guess next question if R-P is intermingled with W-W/Win, are they close enough alike that the difference in the result is minute based on that one component being different?
Obviously this is for a WT hunting rifle. Maybe 400 yd shot. While premium accuracy is always the goal, bench rest accuracy not required.

As always, thanks for sharing your experience/knowledge.

Never mix the two. You will see a difference between Winchester and Remington on paper. At least I do.
It also depends on the age of the brass. I have found the older brass to be more consistent than the newer stuff.
The newer Federal brass is consistent and shoots well, it just doesn't last as long if you're shooting hot loads.

 

[bigbull]

I was going to give a long winded answer but!
Get 100 cases for each rifle and don't mix them even if they are of the same brand.
Loads for each rifle will most likely differ if you are loading for ultimate performance.
I doubt your guns have the same chamber, action and barrel specs so you are loading differently for each.
Always segregate your Brass, powder, bullets and primers
BB

 

[Mike Matteson]

If you want top of the line brass. I would look Lapua or Peterson brass. Presently not sure if either make 270 brass, but can sizes 30/06 brass to 270 petty easy. I have found over the years that Win brass seem to lighter in weight. So I figured there was more room inside the brass for powder over the other cheaper brass. None are cheap anymore. Or the other way is to volume weight the cases to get the most of your cases. Conforming and concentricity is the name of the game. One thing for sure is don't mix brass. Keep at count on how many time the brass is used or fired.

 

[cdherman]

I was going to give a long winded answer but!
Get 100 cases for each rifle and don't mix them even if they are of the same brand.
Loads for each rifle will most likely differ if you are loading for ultimate performance.
I doubt your guns have the same chamber, action and barrel specs so you are loading differently for each.
Always segregate your Brass, powder, bullets and primers
BB

THIS!

Except get 200 cases.

Even the same manufacturer. Even Lapua. Has variation. Period. Especially lot to lot. Even inside lots (I have pics where you can see a bi-modal curve, indicating two different machines in the line).

Every other comment is pretty much on track. You can get accuracy with a lot of different brass. But don't don't mix brands and better yet, don't mix lots.

Sadly there are some stuff out there where same brand and same lot still will shoot poor, but that not what I can answer....

 

[Capt Nag]

I think everyone pretty much answered your initial question. Here's my opinion to add to the mix; always try to shoot and reload the same head stamp. It was easier back in day. Ammo was plentiful to get and the choices weren't as many as we have now. For example, I've never seen or even heard of Sierra brass. Where the heck have I been?
R.P., Winchester, W.W. (stands for Winchester Western), and Federal were my choices.
I never really saw too great a difference in group size with mixed brass vs sticking to one brand alone.
If your groups open up a 1/4" here or there, so what? As long as you don't get any weird flyers and your overall group size stays 1 inch or under, you're golden to hunt.
On a personal note, I've been lucky enough to get loads half that size. Talk about confidence in the field?
But we all know it's not always the Engines performance, but the Engineer .

 

[bigbrad53]

-WW (and Super X)
-Remington
I'd place these two in a close tie. Not much experience with the others. I wouldn't mix brands as the brass properties will likely be different enough to give differing results. If you already have these brands, you may be able to work up individuals loads with each brand that are similar enough to treat as the same at those ranges.

R-P has less case capacity WW or SuperX

 

[bigbrad53]

Long before many brands of brass were readily available, the only option was to buy factory rounds and shoot them to get the brass. In my area, the only options were Remington and Winchester.
When I started reloading about 45 years ago, I had 30/06 and 45-70 Winchester cases split on firing the first reload.
This happened to about half of cases in each caliber.
I cut the split cases and measured the thickness against a Remington. The Winchester wall thickness was .002-.003 thinner.
I didn't care about case capacity, so I started using only Remington brass. I still subconsciously shy away from Winchester to this day (unless that's all I can find).

I had the same but with R-P quit using it years ago.

 

[bigbrad53]

WW…least amount of throw-aways
Nosler has had some good batches of brass…too expensive to be culling 10%
R-P needs lots of sorting…
Hornady is the worst for lopsided neck thickness….useable but not for top tier accuracy loads.

Hornady pockets are way too soft.

 

[bigbrad53]

Peterson
Norma
Starline
Rem
Win (or W-W Super)

I don't like Hornady or Federal brass at all.

Not sure who makes Sierra headstamped brass. I have heard Rem, Fed or Starline.

Frontier is old Hornady. See above.

Starline if I can get it. Just 200 once fired WW Super for my 7X57.

 

[lancetkenyon]

I think everyone pretty much answered your initial question. Here's my opinion to add to the mix; always try to shoot and reload the same head stamp. It was easier back in day. Ammo was plentiful to get and the choices weren't as many as we have now. For example, I've never seen or even heard of Sierra brass. Where the heck have I been?
R.P., Winchester, W.W. (stands for Winchester Western), and Federal were my choices.
I never really saw too great a difference in group size with mixed brass vs sticking to one brand alone.
If your groups open up a 1/4" here or there, so what? As long as you don't get any weird flyers and your overall group size stays 1 inch or under, you're golden to hunt.
On a personal note, I've been lucky enough to get loads half that size. Talk about confidence in the field?
But we all know it's not always the Engines performance, but the Engineer .

Not just about group size at 100.
With different brass, you will get different case capacity, sometimes drastic differences. Which will cause drastic variations in velocity ES/SD.

Could cause high variations in neck tension, which will compound the issue.

Depending on barrel harmonics, this could wreak havoc on accuracy and precision.

Not worth it to save $100-200. Buy 100pcs of good brass, or at least use the SAME brass. Even if you only have 50-60 pcs.

 

[Tiny Tim]

R-P has less case capacity WW or SuperX

Thanks for the info. I should have clarified that I was referring to being a tie for e quality rather than capacity.

 

[bigbrad53]

Thanks for the info. I should have clarified that I was referring to being a tie for e quality rather than capacity.

I ran RP for years till it started doing some crazy stuff, I've still got some but haven't loaded any in over 40 years.

 

[bigbrad53]

Hornady pockets are way too soft. Especially 22 Hornet.