Custom .22-250?

MagnumManiac said:

I have a standard 22-250 in a trued REM 700 VSSF II, and a custom 22-250AI built on the same action with a 1/4" lug switch barrel set-up. The 22-250AI is a 7" twist 4 groove 28". I run 77g or 88g RDF depending on range, or the 77g Sierra for fox shooting at range.
I prefer the AI performance, no case trimming and brass lasts for ever. I'm still using original Sako brass I got with the rifle and fireformed some time later. Also have 80's vintage Winchester 'ww-super' cases that just keep on going, but for my F-class mid range duties, I run Lapua SRP brass exclusively.

Cheers.

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VinceMule said:

If you are going custom for coyote hunting, there is no reason to not go AI, best coyote hunting cartridge I have ever used.

60g Bergers at 3700-3800 stops them in their tracks, 55g at 4100 eliminates a lot of leade on trotting shots.

I don't know if a coyote has enough meat on the bones to get a 77g Sierra to expand.

I ran 25", 12 twists, and around 550 was as far as I ever had to shoot, not living in the Plains states.

24", 8T runs the 75g Hornady at 3400 at a minimum.

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I haven't walked down the AI road yet. However, seems like if I'm building a rifle from scratch, it's a good time to do it.

Could you fellas walk me down what I'd need to do there with that chambering and my factory brass? Also, how much gain would I expect to go the AI route?

FireFlyFishing said:

Agreed!

You think too fast for a 77SMK?

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I think you only need a 8 tw for a 77SMK but I would make a list of all the bullets you "might" want to shoot and what twist rates they require and see what works. Somewhere in the 7.5-7.75-8 range is probably where your going to land I would guess but I don't know what bullets your looking at besides the 77 smk.

For figuring bullet rpm it's Muzzle velocity X 720 divided by twist rate. When you start getting over 300,000 is when come aparts can happen (bullet dependent, some can handle a lot more) but it's something to keep in mine. At 339k rpm I have lost a few 22 cal ELDM's.

Ckleeves said:

I think you only need a 8 tw for a 77SMK but I would make a list of all the bullets you "might" want to shoot and what twist rates they require and see what works. Somewhere in the 7.5-7.75-8 range is probably where your going to land I would guess but I don't know what bullets your looking at besides the 77 smk.

For figuring bullet rpm it's Muzzle velocity X 720 divided by twist rate. When you start getting over 300,000 is when come aparts can happen (bullet dependent, some can handle a lot more) but it's something to keep in mine. At 339k rpm I have lost a few 22 cal ELDM's.

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No doubt. I was considering what you mentioned and was thinking going heavy for caliber copper. I could keep the 77 SMKs for AR work.

I was thinking about this combo next.. 73gr absolutes and rl26.

Bghunter338 said:

I was thinking about this combo next.. 73gr absolutes and rl26.

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FireFlyFishing said:

Really like the idea of a Tikka action. What bolt stop?

What did your client do as far as a stock? Light weight I'm guessing?

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Short action bolt. Actually went with a grayboe, fairly heavy. He wasn't worried about weight, short barrel for suppressor

Interested in your project. I have the Remington varmint barrel in 22-250. It's a shooter bone stock.
Would love to build a second one that's lighter and shoots monos and cup and core with the heavies. Good luck with it! Will be watching.

FireFlyFishing said:

View attachment 556206

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I built one with a 7 twist. It is blowing up eldm. 88s and 75s

My 1:8 22-250 AI shoots the 88 ELDM into little bug holes. I've shot everything from 55s - 88s very well. 22" barrel yields 3150 fps with the 88s and RL-23. Probably some more room to go but quit chasing velocity since the accuracy was great.

FireFlyFishing said:

I haven't walked down the AI road yet. However, seems like if I'm building a rifle from scratch, it's a good time to do it.

Could you fellas walk me down what I'd need to do there with that chambering and my factory brass? Also, how much gain would I expect to go the AI route?

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First thing, your GS has to understand that an AI chamber requires .003"-.005" NEGATIVE HEADSPACE. Once this is established, you have 2 options; shoot factory or cheap handloads to fireform brass, or do what I do, which is use Universal etc, with a 1/3 load of normal max, COW (cream of wheat/Semolina) and twist in TP (toilet paper) tightly and work up until cases come out fully expanded but with slight rounding on the corners. Headspace will be correct in this condition. A further full power load will be necessary to fully form the brass. I use cheap Sierra 52g BTHP if I run bullets to form, which is rare.
If using TP, you have to poke it in tightly, I use a chopstick.

Cheers.

MagnumManiac said:

First thing, your GS has to understand that an AI chamber requires .003"-.005" NEGATIVE HEADSPACE. Once this is established, you have 2 options; shoot factory or cheap handloads to fireform brass, or do what I do, which is use Universal etc, with a 1/3 load of normal max, COW (cream of wheat/Semolina) and twist in TP (toilet paper) tightly and work up until cases come out fully expanded but with slight rounding on the corners. Headspace will be correct in this condition. A further full power load will be necessary to fully form the brass. I use cheap Sierra 52g BTHP if I run bullets to form, which is rare.
If using TP, you have to poke it in tightly, I use a chopstick.

Cheers.

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I prefer cotton balls and tweezers. Below is my .30 Gibbs.

Bghunter338 said:

I was thinking about this ...

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I have something in the works because I anticipate 120+ grainers from our friend up north.

FEENIX said:

I prefer cotton balls and tweezers. Below is my .30 Gibbs.
View attachment 556277
View attachment 556278

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I'm way out of my element Donnie…