24" or 26" 300wm barrel for elk hunting

Will83 said:
I am new to the sport of hunting elk, but I understand that alot of hiking will be involved. I am not sure of the areas or terrain that I will one day be hunting. I would like to know the length of barrel that would be best for most elk terrains. Keep in mind that weight difference would be minor because I will be purchasing a proof carbon fiber barrel. However, I would be adding a brake, which would add about 2" to the barrel length. Would the 26" + brake be too long for the rougher terrains or should I go 24"+brake?
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Unless you're busting through incredibly dense, thick brush the extra 2" will never bother you at all and will be beneficial.
 
I believe you have a valid concern with the longer barrel catching on brush. I hunt in areas where ducking/crawling through low hanging brush and trees is the only access and the extra barrel length makes it noticeably more challenging; your hunting terrain will be a factor. A well planned 300WM load will be able to effectively drop an elk, at reasonably long ranges (depending in skill level) with barrel lengths mentioned. I like 24" barrels for our hunting conditions but would have no problem using 22". If terrain/weight is not an issue, lengthen it out.
 
I use a 24" that ends up at 26" with the brake. No problem burning all of 79 gr of Retumbo to give me 2900 FPS with 210-215 Bergers. Good for Elk to +1000 yards.
 
My opinion is if your slugging through bush, 24" is too long. If you're in that much bush a 20" 308 is adequate, but if there is open country you'll want the 300wm. I wouldn't worry about 26" with brake, the length won't both you. And if your tall, you can carry it barrel down. I don't have that luxury, but some ppl do.
Elk vary in what they like. Some areas you have to check every inch of bush, others they're just wandering around in the open. That really varies where your hunting and what the weather is like
 
just for reference my good friend is running a 22 inch Christensen carbon barrel in 300 WM. hornady 200 grain eldx @ 2964 FPS validated to 1150 yards.

we were quite surprised/pleased to see that kind of velocity with the shorter barrel.
 
Really depends on terrain and your intended purpose. Where I hunt elk I anticipate shots to 900 yards across canyons and have taken 700. I've also encountered elk at 70 yards but I want to prepare for the high end.

If my tactics focused on dark timber and brush, I'd carry a shorter/lighter gun and the 300WM would NOT be the cartridge of choice.

So, if the question is 300WM, I'd say 26 and skip the brake on a hunting rifle. I do have a 338 Edge with a 30" tube and brake which replaces my 300WM for my next hunt. If I thought I'd be hunting thicker and closer I'd open up to a 358 bullet out of my 35 caliber wildcat pushing 35 Whelen AI velocities.
 
I thank all of you for your input and help. I just purchased a 26" Proof carbon fiber savage prefit, threaded for a brake w/ thread cap. (Prefit because it will eventually be a switch barrel for my young son.) It's going on a bighorn tl3 and this is what the proof savage prefits were tested on with excellent results. From listening to the members here, I got the impression that you really won't go wrong either way. I want to use the brake for target shooting and learning my rifle. When it comes time for the hunt, I will just put the thread protector back on and maybe do a little fine tuning before the trip. And once again, I really do appreciate all of the input and shared experience.
 
Will83 said:
I thank all of you for your input and help. I just purchased a 26" Proof carbon fiber savage prefit, threaded for a brake w/ thread cap. (Prefit because it will eventually be a switch barrel for my young son.) It's going on a bighorn tl3 and this is what the proof savage prefits were tested on with excellent results. From listening to the members here, I got the impression that you really won't go wrong either way. I want to use the brake for target shooting and learning my rifle. When it comes time for the hunt, I will just put the thread protector back on and maybe do a little fine tuning before the trip. And once again, I really do appreciate all of the input and shared experience.
Click to expand...
With a good brake there's no reason to ever take it off period and if you leave it on you'll be bar more consistent.

After more than 2 decades of trying different brakes I now have this model on just bout everything, more than a dozen rifles.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Perfor...2x28-5-8x24-for-Rifle-or-Pistol-/221311913421

I have the slotted version it cast's the noise and blast out to the sides and up not back at the shooter.
 
If you want a brake and don't want extra noise for hunting and suppressor is illegal, here's what I use

http://www.grizzlygunworks.com/

I have three of them with the noise redirector they work great!
You can spin the noise redirector off by hand to have full use of brake, having it on cuts the brake recoil suppression down but the noise is normal for a rifle.
I will warn you, taking your brake off or even the noise redirector which is far lighter changes your point of aim every time. I strongly suggest deciding how you want to shoot it and practice with it how you plan to hunt with it.
 
I think you go longer. I have a 26 and would take a 28 in a second. Keep in mind, you can always shorten the barrel. Much more difficult to lengthen it.;)
 
morning, I am 71, my new built 7mmwbee I had built has a #6 30"
Hart barrel. built 340 wbee has a 30" straight contour shilen barrel.
no muzzle brakes needed. shoot real good. THK. U
 
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