I would always go side-port. Radial brakes are awful. I really like my MBM 2-piece Ti Beast. I'd get something like that in a 1-piece and have it tapered. Consult with the maker of the brake and make sure it can go down that far.
Tapered Brake for .650 muzzle 300 WSM
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340 in Va
Well-Known Member
Custom High Tech in Co. Springs Co. makes really good brakes. I have one on a 340 wby. that is .618. This rifle is 6# empty and no scope and kicks less than my 308 Ruger.
nickjandrews
Well-Known Member
My Dad just bought a 300RUM Sendero (M700 action) my brother found in AZ. Then he bought a Fat Bastard 2 for it. He's already had rotator cuff surgery on his right shoulder and just turned 70, and is a little afraid to just shoot it as-is. So now I'm up for threading the barrel to install it.
Watching their videos and looking at it, it definitely looks effective, but you can't turn it down as it has 10 top ports you can open or close with set screws to allegedly dial in zero side-to-side movement or muzzle rise of the barrel. And it has a large kinda klunky nut over the back end that threads to the brake body but not the barrel to lock back against the shoulder. I guess the idea is that you can quickly move it from one rifle to another and clock it right, but a lot of guys say the nut comes loose and they end up using loctite on it. So I am going to try to cut the barrel shoulder just right so it will lock tight against it and clock properly.
Watching their videos and looking at it, it definitely looks effective, but you can't turn it down as it has 10 top ports you can open or close with set screws to allegedly dial in zero side-to-side movement or muzzle rise of the barrel. And it has a large kinda klunky nut over the back end that threads to the brake body but not the barrel to lock back against the shoulder. I guess the idea is that you can quickly move it from one rifle to another and clock it right, but a lot of guys say the nut comes loose and they end up using loctite on it. So I am going to try to cut the barrel shoulder just right so it will lock tight against it and clock properly.
The Answer (Gen 3 Micro Bastard)*
At APA we are known for solving big recoil problems, not small ones. For years competitive shooters have asked us to develop a brake for the off-hand, run-and-gun, "Gas Gun" competitor. We found this little recoil problem was a little more dynamic than anticipated. We wanted to give these...
www.americanprecisionarms.com
6MM06AI
Well-Known Member
I've threaded barrels that were .625 and have never had a problem! But I use suppressors and not muzzle breaks!
If you are NOT going to wear hearing protection, then Gentry is your only option. The other brakes mentioned will case instant and permanent hearing damage. I have all the brakes above, and I put brakes on all my rifles including the 223.
When deer hunting, I wear Peltor Tac 6 electronic ear muffs, and I can hear 5x better than the average human. Deer bleat, snort wheeze, and rattle horns with each other more than you can imagine.
When deer hunting, I wear Peltor Tac 6 electronic ear muffs, and I can hear 5x better than the average human. Deer bleat, snort wheeze, and rattle horns with each other more than you can imagine.
ManzellaPrecision
Active Member
Hawkins makes a three port brake that has back taper and flats on the top and bottom it's .750 diameter. I order them all the time. Waiting on them to make another batch of them Currently I have one that's .875 diameter but the .750 will back taper easily to .650 without issue. I use them on tikkas and other factory barrels that guys want recoil reduction.
ManzellaPrecision
Active Member
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brant89
Well-Known Member
I've got a Holland QD brake on my 300WM and I recently installed a Ross Schuler 4 port on a friends .308. I can easily spot impacts with both rifles.
Tubb makes a break with a self-timing barrel nut that tightens up against the brake, Ross does also. These brakes can act as barrel tunner, and it make a huge difference in groups. You can barely move the bake off of top dead center and groups will change, not to mentioning screwing the brake a complete revolution out.
I start working up loads with these types of brakes and tuners with the unit screwed all the way to the rear, work up loads, then adjust brake/tuner to reduce the already small groups. It is not unusual to get groups down to a single bullet hole less than .200 spread plus bullet dia.
Tactical brakes with side ports and round holes on top, eliminate muzzle rise. All the brakes that are side discharge are ungodly loud, and that is an understatement. One company make a side discharge brake that has ports slanted to the rear, and I have one on a 22/243 AI. You can feel the dramatic concussion from the side discharge brakes with ports slanted to the rear, but they are very effective in reducing recoil. I will not buy another of the Rear angled port side discharge muzzle breaks...they hurt!
I start working up loads with these types of brakes and tuners with the unit screwed all the way to the rear, work up loads, then adjust brake/tuner to reduce the already small groups. It is not unusual to get groups down to a single bullet hole less than .200 spread plus bullet dia.
Tactical brakes with side ports and round holes on top, eliminate muzzle rise. All the brakes that are side discharge are ungodly loud, and that is an understatement. One company make a side discharge brake that has ports slanted to the rear, and I have one on a 22/243 AI. You can feel the dramatic concussion from the side discharge brakes with ports slanted to the rear, but they are very effective in reducing recoil. I will not buy another of the Rear angled port side discharge muzzle breaks...they hurt!
APA Micro Bastard x 2The Answer (Gen 3 Micro Bastard)*
At APA we are known for solving big recoil problems, not small ones. For years competitive shooters have asked us to develop a brake for the off-hand, run-and-gun, "Gas Gun" competitor. We found this little recoil problem was a little more dynamic than anticipated. We wanted to give these...
WeiserBucks
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- Aug 16, 2016
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