Scope failed tall target test....🤬

[Tumbleweed]

Bad scope. No surprise here. Sounds like you've done everything to rule our other issues. Hopefully Leupold will be willing to admit the problem and make it right.

 

[Rflshootr]

When you dial back down to your zero, try going past it a half turn or so and then up back to zero. If your zero is then right, make your windage adjustment to center, then do the tall test again.

 

[L.Sherm]

Bad scope. No surprise here. Sounds like you've done everything to rule our other issues. Hopefully Leupold will be willing to admit the problem and make it right.

Not everything, I used to be a big Leupold fan but about 10 years ago went away from them. That being said I've never seen a bad Leupold or shot one but I have watched a BR 1000 yard shooter fight a bad NF scope one day for about 85 rounds untill he tried another scope and it was his bad NF scope.
While some scope manufacturers have less problems than others there just like barrels they all can make a turd.

 

[Riceguy]

Store - Box to Bench Precision

Snipers Hide 100 Yard Scope Tracking Target - MIL - MOA - For Milliradian and Minute of Angle Scopes - True Minute of Angle - Precision Shooting -

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Thank You

 

[tribb]

If it was a canting problem, wouldn't the right shift get larger the more you raised it?

Would it not stay The same as he did not increase distance? I'm not sure of this it's just a question

 

[tribb]

My HD6 also has this issue. However I discovered that if you work the turrets back and fourth their full range a few times and then try your tall test again and it worked like it should. Don't know for how long though

A gentleman at Leupold told me that if scope had sat awhile and not been adjusted in a while that the lube or grease may cause problems when adjustment is made. He said to "exercise the adjustments as you did to insure correct adjustment. Makes sense when you think about it

 

[Will16]

 

[Unoboats]

Are you sure your scope is mounted stress free, by that I mean more often than not when you put a rail on 700 actions and srew one end down the other end has a gap on the other end meaning no way can it not have a banana shape when tightened down.
I know your using Talleys which if I remember correctly are 2 piece which means the same principal when you torque the scope down. I'm not saying it's your problem but it's something to look at and eliminate it's why anymore I dont care if there NF or spuhr mounts it can very well be the actions mounting points I bed the rings and rail if needed which is atleast 75% of the time

I found this to be the problem for me on a 700 action with Talley LW rings. Switched to rail and bedded it no issues

 

[Unoboats]

Just saw that you said you used levels to mount.

All I'm thinking is that if your scope had the same discrepancy between the tube body and reticle that mine has, it may be the source of your problem. If I'd leveled mine to the reticle, I'd almost certainly have a right shift when I dialed the turret up.

use a plumb bob or log chain hung from tree out to 50-75 yds

 

[MS660Magnum]

Lots of suggestions being thrown out, but I'm still curious about a canted reticle. Mine is that way. Place a level on the bottom flat part of the scope opposite the elevation knob, and check that against the reticle and a plumb line looking through the scope. If your VX-6 is anything like mine, the two references may differ.

In theory, the reticle could be installed 45° off in an "X" across the lens, but as long as the TURRET is straight up and down, the scope will track straight. It'd be wonderful if all scope's turrets and reticles were perfectly aligned, but I'm telling you that isn't always the case and it's not a safe assumption.

 

[MS660Magnum]

That's just been my experience anyway.

 

[DJ Fergus]

Lots of suggestions being thrown out, but I'm still curious about a canted reticle. Mine is that way. Place a level on the bottom flat part of the scope opposite the elevation knob, and check that against the reticle and a plumb line looking through the scope. If your VX-6 is anything like mine, the two references may differ.

In theory, the reticle could be installed 45° off in an "X" across the lens, but as long as the TURRET is straight up and down, the scope will track straight. It'd be wonderful if all scope's turrets and reticles were perfectly aligned, but I'm telling you that isn't always the case and it's not a safe assumption.

I've saw the same thing. Physically level the body of scope and the reticle is canted, but it still tracks true up & down.

 

[DJ Fergus]

That will not happen if the rifle is accurate. It is an immutable rule of physics that if your reticle does not point at the center of your bore, the track line will diverge left or right from the plumb line as you crank up more and more.

Doc, one other thing - use a plumb-bob to plumb your target, not a level. You can make one in two minutes by simply tying a weight on a piece of heavy twine. It is too easy to be off a bit when reading a bubble level.

I don't want to insult you or your rifle but part of the problem is also that your groups are so large and you are firing only three (or two) shots. I get the groups down at 100 yards before I even worry about tracking, because if the rifle will not group well it is going to be useless at long range anyway.

I've saw a canted reticle that tracked if the scope was leveled off of the turret. I don't think it would hold true in every situation like that. My assumption was that the reticle etching itself was canted not necessarily the erector or anything to do with the mechanical movements.

 

[coyotezapper]

After reading some of the other posts here I am reminded of a test I did comparing the plumb bob technique to the level method. I compared both side by side and found no difference. I did use a Stabila level and I think the quality of the level can make all of the difference. I would only use a Stabila brand level for this kind of process. As with most things you get what you pay for.