Scope failed tall target test....🤬

Laguna Freak

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Jan 5, 2015
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182
Location
South Central Texas, just north of the Wall
I agree. I also have a Wheeler Pro Level Mount and have had the same issue on multiple scopes. Not cheap ones ( Zeiss, NF, Vortex Razor). Now, I always level my scope with a plump bob. Never fails.

Plumb bob is a great way to go. I’ve been doing it for some time. E.g.; a couple weeks ago I bought a used Leupold VXIII 6.5-20x40 A.O. that had the wind and elv knobs well off zero. I set the rifle in my rest, used a level a straight edge and micrometer to make sure scope bases were centered and aligned on the action and I bedded the bases. Next day with a plumb line against a wall, I mounted the scope; bases level and aligned the reticle to the plumb line.

When I got to the range for load testing, I “visually” bore sighted it from 100 yards (= generally not close). Which required an 11 moa adjust to the left to get the reticle to roughly align with my bore sight. Round 1 hit 5 moa low and 2 moa right. Adjusted scope and Round 2 hit 0 moa high/low and 0.4 moa left. I proceeded with load testing. This is my SOP for new to me rifles/scopes.

After I finish load development, I will check to see how much windage and elevation adjustment remain and make adjustments as necessary. I’ve never had a problem with Leupold scopes.
 

Laguna Freak

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Jan 5, 2015
Messages
182
Location
South Central Texas, just north of the Wall
I will always check a new scope by projecting the reticle on the wall with a plumb line. Do this using a flashlight directed through the scope from the objective end, three feet from the wall. With the scope secured, you can check the reticle relationship to the turret using a level. You can also check the reticle’s s alignment with the plumb line by dialing elevation. The projected reticle should track with the plumb line.
I use this approach to:
Alignment the reticle to the centerline of the barrel, check action rail alignment, and plumb the scope, I have rarely if ever had to re-adjust my mounts for plumb when verifying by shooting a tall-test target. Scope bases are always bedded to the receiver, and depending on the type of rings, lapped for contact area with the scope tube.
I like this projection idea. Lots to learn on LRH. 🤔
 

archeratlrg

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Jan 30, 2012
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I split my time between Sidney, Montana and La Pin
I had to create a profile so that I could tag onto this.

How did you level your scope when you mounted it?

Here’s why ask: I have a VX-6HD 3-18x44, and I mounted it by placing a bubble level on top (Wheeler Pro mounting kit), and leveling the TURRET, as opposed to using a plumb line and leveling the RETICLE. I was quickly miffed, however, when I found out the flashy level didn’t work. Further investigation revealed that plumb on the reticle vs the turret/body of the scope was about 3-4° different. If I level the reticle the illuminated flasher stops, but the scope’s canted. If I level the scope tube, the reticle is canted. My scope passes a 35moa tall target test with flying colors, indicating that it’s the TURRET and erectors that need to be plumb, at least if you’re dialing the shot. The reticle in mine is just canted, meaning that the fancy flashing level is useless since it’s aligned with the crooked reticle.

For what it’s worth, I complained and sent it back to Leupold. The held onto it for a few months, and then sent it back untouched and without comment. I guess 3-4° is good enough for them, tall-target be damned.

Still like the scope though; image quality is fantastic, and I’ve fired my .308win to 1200yds with it. I was just disappointed in their “top of the line” effort and their customer service.
I had to create a profile so that I could tag onto this.

How did you level your scope when you mounted it?

Here’s why ask: I have a VX-6HD 3-18x44, and I mounted it by placing a bubble level on top (Wheeler Pro mounting kit), and leveling the TURRET, as opposed to using a plumb line and leveling the RETICLE. I was quickly miffed, however, when I found out the flashy level didn’t work. Further investigation revealed that plumb on the reticle vs the turret/body of the scope was about 3-4° different. If I level the reticle the illuminated flasher stops, but the scope’s canted. If I level the scope tube, the reticle is canted. My scope passes a 35moa tall target test with flying colors, indicating that it’s the TURRET and erectors that need to be plumb, at least if you’re dialing the shot. The reticle in mine is just canted, meaning that the fancy flashing level is useless since it’s aligned with the crooked reticle.

For what it’s worth, I complained and sent it back to Leupold. The held onto it for a few months, and then sent it back untouched and without comment. I guess 3-4° is good enough for them, tall-target be damned.

Still like the scope though; image quality is fantastic, and I’ve fired my .308win to 1200yds with it. I was just disappointed in their “top of the line” effort and their customer service.

I'm surprised by your response from Leupold. Every time I've had an issue they've either corrected the scope or sent a replacement. I would call them and describe exactly what's happening and before you send it get a repair order number from them. That way when they receive your scope they will have established notes to refer to and they will fix it properly. That's my experience with them. Good luck.
 

MS660Magnum

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Jun 20, 2020
Messages
32
Location
California
I'm surprised by your response from Leupold. Every time I've had an issue they've either corrected the scope or sent a replacement. I would call them and describe exactly what's happening and before you send it get a repair order number from them. That way when they receive your scope they will have established notes to refer to and they will fix it properly. That's my experience with them. Good luck.
Yeah, I did that. Talked to them on the phone. I’m giving them the benefit of the doubt that I didn’t make myself clear. Like I said, I still like the scope. It’s super clear and tracks fine. The only thing it won’t do is tell me if I’m level (actually it kinda could; I could settle the electro-level, then slowly cant right until it starts flashing... that’d be close).

I’ll probably chase that rabbit again, but the scope is in current use and I haven’t figured out how to call them up again without sounding like a pompous d*ck.
 

A/C Guy

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Nov 16, 2008
Messages
191
Location
Apache Junction, Az
So I have a Leupold VX6 on my CA 6.5 PRC. Rifle shoots really well, I’ve got a load worked up that is consistent and I’m feeling good about this fall until the tall target test. When I dial up, I get a 1.5-2” shift to the right. I ran the test 4 times. Made sure the target was plumb with a level, used levels to mount the scope, and even tried rotating the scope counter clockwise (since the shift was to the right). Nothing has worked. No matter what I try, when I dial up, I get a POI shift to the right.
That does not seem possible, if you rotate the scope CCW then the POI has to shift left. Keep rotating the scope until you can see a change on paper.

I would ask another person to try the same test for you. It is possible that this is a shooter issue.
 

DocGlenn

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Joined
Nov 23, 2005
Messages
106
Location
North Georgia
So here is the latest. I’ve sent the suppressor back to Silencerco and the scope back to Leupold. At the suggestion from someone in the original thread, I purchased the Bushnell bore sighting tool with grid in it. So even though I thought it was the can, I remounted the scope with lapped rings, and since I had already purchased the bore sighting tool, I set it up just to try it out. Lined up the grid with the reticle and gave it 30 MOA up. Sure enough, the reticle moved down and to the left. 🤬🤬🤬. Which is what I got when shooting the tall test, up and right. I checked 4-5 times, and every time the reticle shifted to the left with an increase in elevation. 🤬🤬🤬. Just to be sure I was doing it right, I put the bore sighter in a rifle the a NF and one with a Swarovski. Both of those scopes tracked correctly according to the grid in the bore sighter.
I called Leupold and they said 4-6 weeks to fix it. My goat hunt is in early September, and that was going to be cutting it close, so I took the 30 mm rings off the PRC, put some 1” rings on it, lapped them, and put the Swarovski on it. I’ve just got it sighted in still have to do the tall target test with it to confirm tracking. Going to try and do that this weekend. Hopefully, it will be good. 😬😬
 

Deviant

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Jul 12, 2018
Messages
525
Location
Nebraska
So here is the latest. I’ve sent the suppressor back to Silencerco and the scope back to Leupold. At the suggestion from someone in the original thread, I purchased the Bushnell bore sighting tool with grid in it. So even though I thought it was the can, I remounted the scope with lapped rings, and since I had already purchased the bore sighting tool, I set it up just to try it out. Lined up the grid with the reticle and gave it 30 MOA up. Sure enough, the reticle moved down and to the left. 🤬🤬🤬. Which is what I got when shooting the tall test, up and right. I checked 4-5 times, and every time the reticle shifted to the left with an increase in elevation. 🤬🤬🤬. Just to be sure I was doing it right, I put the bore sighter in a rifle the a NF and one with a Swarovski. Both of those scopes tracked correctly according to the grid in the bore sighter.
I called Leupold and they said 4-6 weeks to fix it. My goat hunt is in early September, and that was going to be cutting it close, so I took the 30 mm rings off the PRC, put some 1” rings on it, lapped them, and put the Swarovski on it. I’ve just got it sighted in still have to do the tall target test with it to confirm tracking. Going to try and do that this weekend. Hopefully, it will be good. 😬😬
Yeah dude Leupold sucks.
 

Will16

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Joined
Jan 17, 2020
Messages
213
Location
TN MS
I told y’all the NF was tracking and the Leupold wasn’t. The nf was very much in your danger space for your groups. The leu was not.
 

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