BergerBoy
Well-Known Member
BTW- FearNoWind, GREAT VIDEO.
THANKS
THANKS
Muzzle brake is opening up groups
- Thread starter johnino
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Agree!
I agree!
There is. $30 way to check whether it is the brake or the machining work.
Buy a $30 cylindrical .30 cal brake off of eBay (the kind with holes ported in it) and twist yours off and put the new one on just a little harder than hand tight.
The ebay brakes are cheap but do average job in reducing recoil.
Do a google search for "crushing a muzzle brake" some guys have bad ideas about how to time them correctly!
I bought 4 of these brakes for hunting rifles in the past and they were made well. If you notice a problem while threading it on, take a pic and post it here. Or PM me or most any of the guys on here.
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Check the exit hole diameter,,best would be .20 over bullet diameter,,,the bigger it is over bullet diameter accuracy will suffer,,totally agree with other statements here to,good luck
I think you mean .020". I've run brakes from .015" over bullet diameter to .2" over bullet diameter and have never seen them affect accuracy if installed correctly. If you try to get to tight the accuracy will suffer.
+1! All of my MB's clearance hole are .020"-.030" over the rifles bore diameter.
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Thnx for the correction ,,,but too big of an exit hole will affect accuracy,,,I've seen this
Here is a better example, of a smith correctly dialing off the bore not the OD of the barrel. Send it to a competent smith to check out. Over size boring of bullet clearance is not as critical as the brake being bored off center. Dialing in off the bore and opening up with a boring bar ensure a centered hole.
After the job is complete dialing in the OD of the barrel makes the blend easier.
[ame]www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzpU7FkocBM[/ame]
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#
After the job is complete dialing in the OD of the barrel makes the blend easier.
[ame]www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzpU7FkocBM[/ame]
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#
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That's the way it's done,,good video
WildRose
Well-Known Member
As others have said you have changed your barrel harmonics by adding a brake but there's no way it should blow your groups up this bad.
I'd call my gunsmith and have him double check the installation and ensure that it's opened up adequately to be sure the bullets are not grazing it on exit or on the way through.
I also agree that it just doesn't look right with the barrel protruding so far into the first baffle. It may need to be cut off and recrowned.
I'd call my gunsmith and have him double check the installation and ensure that it's opened up adequately to be sure the bullets are not grazing it on exit or on the way through.
I also agree that it just doesn't look right with the barrel protruding so far into the first baffle. It may need to be cut off and recrowned.
WildRose
Well-Known Member
+2 .
johnino
Member
Haven't been able to follow up due to lack of internet. Thanks for everyone's help so far. Here are some images in response to some of the replies.
Pic of brake. Note how much bigger back hole is. It seems to have had alot of the shape removed due to drilling out to thread barrel in:
I would need a 5/32 spacer to remove the thread from the back hole.
Pic of brake. Note how much bigger back hole is. It seems to have had alot of the shape removed due to drilling out to thread barrel in:
I would need a 5/32 spacer to remove the thread from the back hole.
Haven't been able to follow up due to lack of internet. Thanks for everyone's help so far. Here are some images in response to some of the replies.
Pic of brake. Note how much bigger back hole is. It seems to have had alot of the shape removed due to drilling out to thread barrel in:
I would need a 5/32 spacer to remove the thread from the back hole.
Is the muzzle brake custom built by the gunsmith? If so, he owes you a better fitted muzzle brake to match your barrel better, instead of cheap fix using a washer.
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WildRose
Well-Known Member
You have a badly botched installation from what I can see. The barrel was threaded way too far back for that muzzle brake.Haven't been able to follow up due to lack of internet. Thanks for everyone's help so far. Here are some images in response to some of the replies.
Pic of brake. Note how much bigger back hole is. It seems to have had alot of the shape removed due to drilling out to thread barrel in:
I would need a 5/32 spacer to remove the thread from the back hole.
You have two choices, have another brake made with enough shank to allow for proper threading or cut your barrel down and recrown it to accommodate the brake.
The first baffle being considerably larger than the other two is a non issue. It's simply allowing for more gas to be discharged through it than the others to give greater recoil reduction.
Yep, I agree!
