Scope Mounting Options?

[dfanonymous]

Ok, I understand the part about giving you an extra 20 moa... my confusion comes in regarding how to utilize this? As in when determining vertical drop data, how do you find your true "dial to" on the elevation turret considering you have a 20 moa rail installed?

Its (the rail) at a angle. Since moa and mrad is not linear but angular, the angle it is does really add as much as allows you to utilize more effienctly more ups.

Ever noticed that when you spin "up" on your turret that your reticle moves downward? This is by design as to center the reticle on a target the barrel will brought up to launch its projectile like artillary to a lesser degree.

So in short, you don't need to do anything aside from installing it and using a legitimate scope for it to give you an extra 20 moa of upward travel.

 

[Brydawg512]

20 MOA rail is chanted down in the front. Meaning not in plane with the bore.

Like stated above, you now have to dial an additional 20MOA up to zero your riflescope. You are now not zeroed in the center of your adjust.ent range, but 20MOA from center. Now, if you are shooting at a distant target that requires 20MOA of elevation adjustment, you are just getting to center, and you still have half of total adjustment available.

With 0MOA rail: Scope w. 60MOA of total adjustment=30 up, 30 down
With 20MOA rail: scope w. 60MOA of total adjustment=50 up, 10 down.

So, my scope is in mils and has 21 mils of adjustment... does this mean from factory zero, I have 21 mils up and 21 mils down? So if I install the 20 moa base, say zeroing at 100 yards, I would need to make an adjustment up to be zeroed as the scope is canted downward... wouldn't that reduce the amount I can adjust up? Is adjusting up like this reducing the amount of clicks upward allowing for a longer shot? To make sure I'm not confusing... turning in the counterclockwise position allows for shots farther than zero and vis-a-versa for clockwise rotations, correct? Sorry i am new to all of this.

 

[MudRunner2005]

Noted. Now, dumb question... A 20 moa base "gives" you an additional 20 moa of adjustment, correct? Do you still just mount the rail, the rings and sight in as normal? What exactly does a 20 moa rail do?

Yes, it gives you an extra 20MOA of drop adjustment. And yes, you still mount everything and bore-sight it the same as you would with a 0 MOA rail (standard) setup.

 

[FEENIX]

So, my scope is in mils and has 21 mils of adjustment... does this mean from factory zero, I have 21 mils up and 21 mils down? So if I install the 20 moa base, say zeroing at 100 yards, I would need to make an adjustment up to be zeroed as the scope is canted downward... wouldn't that reduce the amount I can adjust up? Is adjusting up like this reducing the amount of clicks upward allowing for a longer shot? To make sure I'm not confusing... turning in the counterclockwise position allows for shots farther than zero and vis-a-versa for clockwise rotations, correct? Sorry i am new to all of this.

No. The 21 mils is more than likely the total elevation adjustment, which means you have ~10.5 mils up and ~mils down adjustment capability just like lancetkenyon noted in his #14 post, except in MOA.

With 0MOA rail: Scope w/ 21 mils of total adjustment=10.5 up, 10.5 down
With 20MOA rail (~6mils): Scope w/ 21 mils of total adjustment=16.5 up, 4.5 down.

 

[dfanonymous]

So, my scope is in mils and has 21 mils of adjustment... does this mean from factory zero, I have 21 mils up and 21 mils down? So if I install the 20 moa base, say zeroing at 100 yards, I would need to make an adjustment up to be zeroed as the scope is canted downward... wouldn't that reduce the amount I can adjust up? Is adjusting up like this reducing the amount of clicks upward allowing for a longer shot? To make sure I'm not confusing... turning in the counterclockwise position allows for shots farther than zero and vis-a-versa for clockwise rotations, correct? Sorry i am new to all of this.

On top of what feenix said, your zero when the base is put on will be wherever it will be. When you go to zero don't worry about going up or down, just follow the bullet with the scope adjustments. I think this was said already before but if your scope has 21 mils of travel, that is a total number. Not that you will be able to dial 21 mils. If you are two revs from a down bottom out, then you would have 19 mils of total ups.

Where ever the scope zeros from is how many mils you will have. The 20 moa (almost 6 mrad) extra is just that.

It's 5.8 mow mils you wouldn't have had before putting that base on.

 

[CAMPMEAT]

You don't need to spend $2-400 on a scope mount. I've used DNZ, Deadnutz, with zero problems. I've also got the EGW Picatinny 20moa rails with medium rings. You can buy everything you need for under $100 easily.

 

[skipglo]

Hello all,

I will soon be purchasing a Bergara B14 Hunter that will be paired with a Gen I Vortex Viper PST 4-16x50.

What are some recommendations for mounting? Ring recommendations? Should I do a picatinny rail and if so, 0 moa or 20 moa? Also, with the rail, if my scope is in mils, do I just need to make the moa to mil conversion if I do use the 20 moa base?

Thank you!

You don't need to make any conversions really. Use the 20 base.... zero your gun and forget the base is there. Everything after zero is mrad based on your ballistic calculations and your scope
In theory you should gain 5 .5 +mrad up...

 

[Josh P]

A 20 MOA base is not ever going to be a bad thing a 0 MOA base may put you in a spot to run out of adjustment. I run a minimum of 20 on everything I'm going to dial and more then 20 on rifles I plan to dial for "ELR" the problem there is you may not be able to zero at 100yds. If I were doing this for you I would put on a 20 and bore sight it and you'd be up and running. Don't forget to plumb Bob the reticle and put a level on it absolutely vital for long range. PM me if you need help I'm in Western Washington not sure where your at be happy to help.

 

[Brydawg512]

A 20 MOA base is not ever going to be a bad thing a 0 MOA base may put you in a spot to run out of adjustment. I run a minimum of 20 on everything I'm going to dial and more then 20 on rifles I plan to dial for "ELR" the problem there is you may not be able to zero at 100yds. If I were doing this for you I would put on a 20 and bore sight it and you'd be up and running. Don't forget to plumb Bob the reticle and put a level on it absolutely vital for long range. PM me if you need help I'm in Western Washington not sure where your at be happy to help.

Great thank you much. I am on the east side, but have family I frequently see on the west side. Thank you for the offee!

 

[Brydawg512]

A 20 MOA base is not ever going to be a bad thing a 0 MOA base may put you in a spot to run out of adjustment. I run a minimum of 20 on everything I'm going to dial and more then 20 on rifles I plan to dial for "ELR" the problem there is you may not be able to zero at 100yds. If I were doing this for you I would put on a 20 and bore sight it and you'd be up and running. Don't forget to plumb Bob the reticle and put a level on it absolutely vital for long range. PM me if you need help I'm in Western Washington not sure where your at be happy to help.

Also, is a 200 yard zero doable with a 20 moa base? Wanting to zero at 100 ideally, considering I am presenting with some hunting opportunities within 100 yards

 

[dfanonymous]

Also, is a 200 yard zero doable with a 20 moa base? Wanting to zero at 100 ideally, considering I am presenting with some hunting opportunities within 100 yards

You can do 100 yard zero with a 20 moa on most scopes. You can do a 100 yard zero with most scope/rifle combos using a 30 moa base.

 

[MontanaRifleman]

Here's a good instructional video on installing/bedding rails to your action. The idea is to not induce stress on the rail and action when installing. I also really like the bubble level on the rear of the rail.

 

[MontanaRifleman]

Here's a couple other vids using varying techniques.

 

[Litehiker]

Always try to go with a high quality one-piece mount like Night Force or LaRue. A one-piece mount precisely machined by a good manufacturer means you will very likely not need to lap the rings to get them true with no high spots inside the rings and no twisted mounts due to off-center drilled receiver mounting holes.

All this means no undue pressure on the scope tube which can really mess with the internals.

True, a quality Pic rail with a two-piece rings helps but not nearly as much as a one-piece mount.

Eric B.