Scope Mounting Options?

Also, is a 200 yard zero doable with a 20 moa base? Wanting to zero at 100 ideally, considering I am presenting with some hunting opportunities within 100 yards
Should be able to with most scopes. Now some with very little total adjustment may run out like 1inch scopes and target scopes with fine adjustments. I have an 1/8 moa per click scope that zeroes out 5 clicks from being bottomed out on a 20 moa base.
 
Always try to go with a high quality one-piece mount like Night Force or LaRue. A one-piece mount precisely machined by a good manufacturer means you will very likely not need to lap the rings to get them true with no high spots inside the rings and no twisted mounts due to off-center drilled receiver mounting holes.

All this means no undue pressure on the scope tube which can really mess with the internals.

True, a quality Pic rail with a two-piece rings helps but not nearly as much as a one-piece mount.

Eric B.

Will be sure to look at that option. Now, I've never mounted a scope before and want to make sure I am doing it correctly... First, I make sure my rifle is level on both the horizontal and vertical plane. Next, I find correct ring positioning to allow for correct eye relief. Next, loosely tighten scope in the rings and remove elevation turret cap and make sure the scope is level and reverify rifle is level. Finally, torque rings down and do final verification of rifle and scope leveling. Is this it? Is it necessary to do a plumb line leveling test? Thanks in advance.
 
Will be sure to look at that option. Now, I've never mounted a scope before and want to make sure I am doing it correctly... First, I make sure my rifle is level on both the horizontal and vertical plane. Next, I find correct ring positioning to allow for correct eye relief. Next, loosely tighten scope in the rings and remove elevation turret cap and make sure the scope is level and reverify rifle is level. Finally, torque rings down and do final verification of rifle and scope leveling. Is this it? Is it necessary to do a plumb line leveling test? Thanks in advance.

Youtube is your friend ... give that a try, you'll be surprise how much pertinent information/instructional video is out there that can help you, just like what MontanaRifleman and I have provided you thus far.
 
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Hello all,

I will soon be purchasing a Bergara B14 Hunter that will be paired with a Gen I Vortex Viper PST 4-16x50.

What are some recommendations for mounting? Ring recommendations? Should I do a picatinny rail and if so, 0 moa or 20 moa? Also, with the rail, if my scope is in mils, do I just need to make the moa to mil conversion if I do use the 20 moa base?

Thank you!
Only reason I use a 20 moa rail or more is
1. If my objective is so big I have to go high on my scope rings.
2. If I'm using a lower end scope that does not have enough adjustment on it for the maximum range I'm able to kill at.
The degree of angle 20 moa is just the measurement of tilt in the rail. So if your using mil or moa optics I doesn't make a difference.
I believe 20 moa is equal to 5.85 mil.

 
Will be sure to look at that option. Now, I've never mounted a scope before and want to make sure I am doing it correctly... First, I make sure my rifle is level on both the horizontal and vertical plane. Next, I find correct ring positioning to allow for correct eye relief. Next, loosely tighten scope in the rings and remove elevation turret cap and make sure the scope is level and reverify rifle is level. Finally, torque rings down and do final verification of rifle and scope leveling. Is this it? Is it necessary to do a plumb line leveling test? Thanks in advance.
I use Wheeler engineering levels. But I mount 10 to 15 scopes a year. After there mounted I level out the rifle in my tipton or led sled again and check their plum by shining a mag light through the front of the scope allowing me to see the crosshair on the wall and compare it to a line I drawn on there with a 3 foot level.
Couple vids that are close to how I do it. Hope that helps


 
I dont' use levels to mount and align my scope - not saying that using levels is bad. A lot of guys use levels and it works for them. I just prefer using a plumb bob because a plumb bob doesn't lie. The idea being to align your reticle with the center of the bore and plumbing your windage reticle true to gravity.
 
I dont' use levels to mount and align my scope - not saying that using levels is bad. A lot of guys use levels and it works for them. I just prefer using a plumb bob because a plumb bob doesn't lie. The idea being to align your reticle with the center of the bore and plumbing your windage reticle true to gravity.

I initially start with a level then I level out the rifle and compare the sights to a 3 foot level line drawn on the wall at the end of the bench.
With a light through the front of the scope and a set of calipers I can actually measures off the line how far they are off.
Levels get you close but a plum line gets you on the money. My wife's last elk kill was 1350 yards.
 
Only reason I use a 20 moa rail or more is
1. If my objective is so big I have to go high on my scope rings.
2. If I'm using a lower end scope that does not have enough adjustment on it for the maximum range I'm able to kill at.
The degree of angle 20 moa is just the measurement of tilt in the rail. So if your using mil or moa optics I doesn't make a difference.
I believe 20 moa is equal to 5.85 mil.



Yes, I rounded it up to ~6 mils to keep it simple. Best free advice from an optics SME ...

20 MOA.jpg
 
morning, everybody's eye relief, head cant is different. I am left
handed and find the scope alignment is not exacccctly centered.
I have 2 left hand bolt rifles. the resssst r custom built right hand
weapons. is there any difference ????
justme gbot tum
 
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