I recently purchased a Remington 700 ADL in 25-06 for a LR Rifle project. Black synthetic factory stock, sporter contour barrel. Goal for the project is 400-700 yard MOA accuracy or better, fairly lightweight for stalking/calling, for the least amount of $$ possible. As expected, the rifle came with a heck of a pressure point in the forearm. Would I be wasting my time floating the barrel and either epoxy or pillar bedding this stock? Gun will be used off a bipod with a rear bag, and I'm just not sure if this stock will be stiff enough to hold the float with the bipod mounted. Anyone have experience with these? Tips/tricks/references? Or would I be better off investing in one of the lower end laminated stocks such as the Stocky's or Boyds? Thanks!
Would I be wasting time/money improving a 700 ADL Stock?
- Thread starter dmr400
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trebark
Well-Known Member
Get rid of the factory stock. Make no modifications to it and post in the classified section. You can get $30 to $40 for it.
Then choose one of Stocky's or Boyd's laminate stocks and have it pillar/skim bedded and finish it yourself. There are several other things you can do to increase the accuracy potential of your rifle. You can use my nephew's rifle as a model...
http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/nephews-transformed-rifle-53634/
Then choose one of Stocky's or Boyd's laminate stocks and have it pillar/skim bedded and finish it yourself. There are several other things you can do to increase the accuracy potential of your rifle. You can use my nephew's rifle as a model...
http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/nephews-transformed-rifle-53634/
trebark
Well-Known Member
No problem. Here's the breakdown....
Leupold VX1 - ~$200
M1 Knobs ~$60 each
Mil-Dot reticle ~$160
Burris Signature Rings and Bases ~$60
If I had it to do over again, I would not have changed the reticle. I made the modifications because I already had the scope and modifying was less expensive than buying a scope that was at this quality level with these options. You can investigate all the options that Leupold has to offer by visiting their custom shop https://customshop.leupold.com/custom_shop.php On their website, you can 'build' your scope online and see the various costs.
Process here is easy. Build, order and pay for the scope online or if you already have a scope, call Leupold, tell them what you want, send them the scope with instructions and payment. They do the work and send it back.
Here are costs for other items....
Boyds JRS Classic Stock $70 (bought this online directly from boyds and nephew finished it himself)
Accurizing by Kevin Cram at Montour County Rifles (www.montourcountyrifles.com) $250 (he normally charges $200, but I had him add pillars to the bedding job). Visit his website and click on 'Accuracy Package'. It entails...
Recrown barrel
Adjust trigger
Lap lugs
Full action bed
The process for getting the accurizing done, was simple. Call Kevin, tell him what you want. Mail the rifle to him. He does the work, mails it back to you and write him a check.
So overall the optics and accurizing were ~$860 (+cost of rifle). Final weight of the project is 9lbs.
Two more examples for you....
Here's a 308 that went through a similar transformation...Read the thread all the way to the end and you will see it's continued transformation into a full-custom 260.
http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/my-308-1k-rifle-evolution-continues-43510/
My 280 (it orignally had the scope that is now on nephew's rifle), read through the thread and you will see that the 280 now has a VX3 with M1's and TMR reticle.
http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/my-280-updated-32771/
Leupold VX1 - ~$200
M1 Knobs ~$60 each
Mil-Dot reticle ~$160
Burris Signature Rings and Bases ~$60
If I had it to do over again, I would not have changed the reticle. I made the modifications because I already had the scope and modifying was less expensive than buying a scope that was at this quality level with these options. You can investigate all the options that Leupold has to offer by visiting their custom shop https://customshop.leupold.com/custom_shop.php On their website, you can 'build' your scope online and see the various costs.
Process here is easy. Build, order and pay for the scope online or if you already have a scope, call Leupold, tell them what you want, send them the scope with instructions and payment. They do the work and send it back.
Here are costs for other items....
Boyds JRS Classic Stock $70 (bought this online directly from boyds and nephew finished it himself)
Accurizing by Kevin Cram at Montour County Rifles (www.montourcountyrifles.com) $250 (he normally charges $200, but I had him add pillars to the bedding job). Visit his website and click on 'Accuracy Package'. It entails...
Recrown barrel
Adjust trigger
Lap lugs
Full action bed
The process for getting the accurizing done, was simple. Call Kevin, tell him what you want. Mail the rifle to him. He does the work, mails it back to you and write him a check.
So overall the optics and accurizing were ~$860 (+cost of rifle). Final weight of the project is 9lbs.
Two more examples for you....
Here's a 308 that went through a similar transformation...Read the thread all the way to the end and you will see it's continued transformation into a full-custom 260.
http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/my-308-1k-rifle-evolution-continues-43510/
My 280 (it orignally had the scope that is now on nephew's rifle), read through the thread and you will see that the 280 now has a VX3 with M1's and TMR reticle.
http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f53/my-280-updated-32771/
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royinidaho
Well-Known Member
Not to argue but as I'm a little different
The ADL is a fun and inexpensive stock to work with. I've had great success with them. Messed up a few with various experiments but after the experiments/development of techniques things have worked out very well.
I do the following.
My decision point as to whether I go my way or trebark's way is based on whether I have more money than time or more time than money.
The ADL is a fun and inexpensive stock to work with. I've had great success with them. Messed up a few with various experiments but after the experiments/development of techniques things have worked out very well.I do the following.
- Get rid of the finish.
- Free float the barrel or open the barrel channel for a heavier barrel
- Remove 'finish' where skim bedding material would go. Remove as much as you wish leaving a bridge to maintain the original configuration.
- Piller then skim bed
- If forearm is to remain as is, if there is checkering, fill the checkering. Bondo works good for this.
- If forearm is to be made flat bottomed (bag rider) Bondo works well for that also.
- Bondo also works well for straightening the pistol grip. I like a more straight grip. In fact without bondo and super glue I couldn't do a thing
My decision point as to whether I go my way or trebark's way is based on whether I have more money than time or more time than money.
royinidaho
Well-Known Member
Hidden beneath the paint is a Bell & Carlson $125.00 sporter tuperware stock that Kirby fitted at my request as I intended to purchase another more appropriate stock later. Howwever, by that time I was in one of those 'more time than money' situations.
This was to be a prototype stock that could be shipped off and duplicated for use on my other rifles. But the sucker works so well I use it as is. There is Bondo, JB Weld, Steel Putty, and a piece of pine 2-by in there to extend the forearm to make the barrel not look so long. The original stock was way too flexible in the forearm and all of the stuff I added makes it about right.
The tuperware stuff doesn't like things sticking to it. Rough it up a bit first.
Have fun........
270 AM
Bytheway, I have a Rem 700 Sporter 338 RUM in an ADL stock like yours that shoots 300 SMKs, if you read the wind correctly, is consistently well under MOA @ 1k. I did nothing to it but stick in on the barreled action. I bought it from an LRH member for 40 bucks.
Several years later when things changed to having more money than time I went this route. The $ saved from the original project helped fund this one. Think long term.....
375 AM
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trebark
Well-Known Member
Hidden beneath the paint is a Bell & Carlson $125.00 sporter tuperware stock that Kirby fitted at my request as I intended to purchase another more appropriate stock later. Howwever, by that time I was in one of those 'more time than money' situations.
This was to be a prototype stock that could be shipped off and duplicated for use on my other rifles. But the sucker works so well I use it as is. There is Bondo, JB Weld, Steel Putty, and a piece of pine 2-by in there to extend the forearm to make the barrel not look so long. The original stock was way too flexible in the forearm and all of the stuff I added makes it about right.
270 AM
Did you forget the levitating gas that was injected in order for the rifle to magically float in the air?
