Who crimps their bullets in the case?

I crimp most at some point to check if there is any improvement in accuracy. Mostly there is little to no change if neck tension is consistent. I do crimp my 375 H&H and 458 Lott just for peace of mind.
 
I have been using a set of RCBS reloading die's that came with my old Sears and Roebuck Ted Williams 30-06 I have used them for years. After cleaning FL sizing and case prep I would seat the bullet then run the bullet adjustment out to use the role crimp in the die. I couldn't get the accuracy or consistent muzzle velocity of factory Ammo. It really likes Remington 180 gr. Corelock, 5 shot group at 100yrds looks like a clover. In my research for better accuracy rather than buying some of the more expensive dies for a hunting rifle I learned about the Lee factory crimp die, so I tried it. Excellent results! Wanted to use 165 gr. Sierra game kings. Muzzle velocity is very close 10 FPS round to round, and consistent. Sub MOA at100 yrds, so I tried it out to 500 yrds around 4" shot group. Not a precision rifle, more a family heirloom that brings back memories and puts meat on the table. I now have factory crimp die's for everything. Works so much better for the old Winchester 30-30.
 
As stated earlier here, crimp your cartridges, I crimp everything with the exception of bench rest stuff which I may leave with friction (tension) fit. So, if you want to stop all the problems it sounds like you need a LEE Factory Crimp Die, this is the go-to crimp die for reloaders with excellent results, along with being very easy to set up and use.
Cheers.
 
I crimp 375 H&H, 460 Bee and any cartridge that goes in a tubular mag, like 45-70. Outside of that, in 50 years I have never crimped any of my reloads. If you want to crimp them, just make sure it still groups well, can't see why it would have any negative effect if you are consistent. I know the 45-70 shoots same groups crimped or not.
 
I began hand loading 61 years ago with a "nut cracker tool" for my Rem. 30.06 auto. It was difficult to crimp back then and I was so glad when Lee came out with their factory crimping tool. I have been hand loading now for many years for the 10 different calipers I have from .223 to .300 Win Mag. Plus I hand load for my son and 4 Grandsons. For what it's worth, I feel better putting a very small crimp on every shell with a Lee crimper. And no, I don't still use the nut cracker tool!
 
Perhaps I should've added this in the aforementioned post, there have been a few times when I've seated bullet(s) and they've been slightly out of concentricity and running them in a Lee Factory Crimp Die has brought them more into concentric alignment. I agree with many of the older reloaders here, where was this Lee factory crimp die in 1965 when I started reloading. :)
 
Perhaps I should've added this in the aforementioned post, there have been a few times when I've seated bullet(s) and they've been slightly out of concentricity and running them in a Lee Factory Crimp Die has brought them more into concentric alignment. I agree with many of the older reloaders here, where was this Lee factory crimp die in 1965 when I started reloading. :)
It hadn't been put on the market to the public yet. The best crimp for semi auto ammo is the Lee Taper Crimp die. It tapers the front edge of the cartridge to re leave the edge wile causing the cartridge to slid into the chamber without hanging up on the ramp or the throat of the chamber.
 
I crimp my mags[375,338 300 ultra] and anything tube feed [30-30 etc].When I am going for groups I have found out crimping does not shoot as well
 
It hadn't been put on the market to the public yet. The best crimp for semi auto ammo is the Lee Taper Crimp die. It tapers the front edge of the cartridge to re leave the edge wile causing the cartridge to slid into the chamber without hanging up on the ramp or the throat of the chamber.

Yeah, I know, I wasn't referring to the Lee die in the date, I was just referring to when I started reloading, I should have made that a little clearer I guess. :D
 
The reason I asked about crimping or not is not from me.A friend has a family member that had a receiver come apart on a Savage 99 due to bullet receding into the case at recoil and caused over pressure.
I use a Lee factory crimp die on tubular magazines rifles and all 3 of my ar15's but not on some bolt action rifles but I do try to get by with another reload out of a well used case and wondered if neck tension would be reduced due to use.
I do use the Lee factory crimp die on my 300 win mags but not on others.
I am not sure how to check for neck tension on a used case and wondered if it would be wise to crimp just in case the case is well worn.
I see many use the Lee die and I personally have not seen any difference in accuracy with or without the die use in my bolt guns but others may see a difference in their rifles.
Just wondering what everyone else does so I can make an educated decision and not have an accident.
Old Rooster
 
LEE FCD on everything. When I used one on handgun cartridges, I would knock the Carbide ring out. I was shooting oversized Hard Cast for a reason and it would swage them down.
 
Well, I roll crimp for my GP-100, my SKS and my O-Pap AK. I taper crimp
for my AR-15s. And, I suppose I'll be crimping for my old Marlin 336 too as soon as I get the dies. For my bolt guns, I've never crimped and never had a problem. I run .002 neck tension pretty much across the board. Even if the bullets have a cannelure, like the SST, I basically just ignore it and seat to my CBTO and fire away.
 
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