Which Hunting Knife

[436]

My other general field/hunting knife is Bud Nealy Custom PESH-KABZ this is the larger 5″ blade version, another razor-sharp, very strong hunter, what I really like about it is that it's so light, thin, and out of the way. Buy a good knife once, buy cheap knives forever. Cheers

 

[Buckys]

Looking to upgrade my knife in my kill kit this year before the archery season. I'm looking for suggestions.

I'm a pack hunter. For that reason, I carry one knife, and 100% of the time I use the gutless method to pack out meat. That said, I currently have a brand that uses disposable blades. Personally, I think it's just meh.

I've been thinking maybe a fix blade, and have been eye balling for some time the Benchmade Altitude. What say the wise internet? No budget.

I love my Buck Vanguard fixed blade. Holds an edge well and the ergonomics are close to perfect for me. Personally, I carry that and the surgical type with replaceable blades. The Buck is the workhorse but the surgical knives are in my pack when I need something more precise.

 

[osok-1k]

Obviously there are as many opinions as contributors, mine included. I have somewhere around eighty knives, I used to make them and I'm very picky about steel and more importantly how it is heat treated. I really like a number of modern steels but as an example CPM-154 is not 154CM,
AEB-L, 52100, CPM35VN, 3V, Falkniven COS (one my current favorites) and the list goes on and on. I don't like 440A but 440Ccan be ok if treated properly. I'm working on a skinner made of CPM110V, I'll sent it to a guy well know for treating that particular steel to about 62HRC and sharpen it with diamond. The steel used is important but the heat treat is more important. Poorly treated CPM35VN is crap, properly treated CPM35VN is amazing. The Lindsey knives cited above look pretty good to me based on his description and basic design. For packing and very light weight, Opinel #8 is great superlight knife with their carbon blade, so is the Mora Garberg. A friend of mine was a professional guide in Montana and Wyoming in the late '70s and '80s and he used an Opinel to skin out 3 elk before it needed a little touch up. They are not for breaking joints or anything like that but are very capable skinners. The knife world is endless, always consider application first and choose a design that fits your particular need, then choose a maker who is keen on the process and won't compromise.

 

[dfanonymous]

Sorry to go off topic, but how do you get the tenderloins with the gutless method?

Re knives, I typically have a skinning knife, a boning knife and a general purpose knife. But I also don't backpack in for miles like I did when I was younger.

You kind of have to go in and get them. As someone else said, try not to poke anything that shouldn't be poked.

You can see it from the top where the back strap would end towards the rear of the animal, I push the stomach out of the way and kind of work a blade in there and using the rib bone as a guide like you would for back strap, but upside down. Doing it this way you can see what you're doing from the side. Well….as good as you can in the middle of the night as it usually ends up.

Often enough after getting started I've been able to pull it away by hand after a short time. Bigger game like elk sometimes you'll be elbow deep in there for awhile.

I'm anywhere from 3 to 15, sometimes more miles in. This is the only way to get the meat out for me haha

 

[dfanonymous]

There'a been some really good suggestions, some good outside the box options worth me researching, and really good info in general. This has been very useful. Thank you all!

Feel free to keep suggestions and comments coming, I'll be looking into a lot of what's been mentioned here.

 

[ericbc7]

The knives I take deer hunting are Victorinox paring knives (6 in my pack). Decent blades that can be touched up in the field - but with 6 of them, you just grab the next one and keep cutting. I like them better than my havalon since the blades are longer and it's tricky to change blades on the havalon when fingers are cold, greasy and bloody. I also don't sweat loosing one or two in the tall grass since they are inexpensive.
My apologies to everyone who loves their custom pieces of knife art.

 

[RidgeTop]

I li

ke my Schrade PH-2 + The + on Schrade means it is stain resistant.

 

[436]

Obviously there are as many opinions as contributors, mine included. I have somewhere around eighty knives, I used to make them and I'm very picky about steel and more importantly how it is heat treated. I really like a number of modern steels but as an example CPM-154 is not 154CM,
AEB-L, 52100, CPM35VN, 3V, Falkniven COS (one my current favorites) and the list goes on and on. I don't like 440A but 440Ccan be ok if treated properly. I'm working on a skinner made of CPM110V, I'll sent it to a guy well know for treating that particular steel to about 62HRC and sharpen it with diamond. The steel used is important but the heat treat is more important. Poorly treated CPM35VN is crap, properly treated CPM35VN is amazing. The Lindsey knives cited above look pretty good to me based on his description and basic design. For packing and very light weight, Opinel #8 is great superlight knife with their carbon blade, so is the Mora Garberg. A friend of mine was a professional guide in Montana and Wyoming in the late '70s and '80s and he used an Opinel to skin out 3 elk before it needed a little touch up. They are not for breaking joints or anything like that but are very capable skinners. The knife world is endless, always consider application first and choose a design that fits your particular need, then choose a maker who is keen on the process and won't compromise.

Wow, that's a lot of knives for sure, I heard of a Sultan one time that had 80 wives when he die six of them were still virgins. Cheers

 

[Methow Packer]

Obviously there are as many opinions as contributors, mine included. I have somewhere around eighty knives, I used to make them and I'm very picky about steel and more importantly how it is heat treated. I really like a number of modern steels but as an example CPM-154 is not 154CM,
AEB-L, 52100, CPM35VN, 3V, Falkniven COS (one my current favorites) and the list goes on and on. I don't like 440A but 440Ccan be ok if treated properly. I'm working on a skinner made of CPM110V, I'll sent it to a guy well know for treating that particular steel to about 62HRC and sharpen it with diamond. The steel used is important but the heat treat is more important. Poorly treated CPM35VN is crap, properly treated CPM35VN is amazing. The Lindsey knives cited above look pretty good to me based on his description and basic design. For packing and very light weight, Opinel #8 is great superlight knife with their carbon blade, so is the Mora Garberg. A friend of mine was a professional guide in Montana and Wyoming in the late '70s and '80s and he used an Opinel to skin out 3 elk before it needed a little touch up. They are not for breaking joints or anything like that but are very capable skinners. The knife world is endless, always consider application first and choose a design that fits your particular need, then choose a maker who is keen on the process and won't compromise.

Heat treating is everything when it comes to the best edge possible. I spent the money to have my own heat treating equipment . This way I can guarantee my knives are what I'm selling. CPM 154 and CPMS35VN are the only steels I use anymore. Including in my flipper folding knives

 

[300grains]

Gerber make good kniven.
For what it is worth I prefer and use mostly norwegian Helle knives. Lightweight and sturdy. Easy to sharpen and very good steel.

 

[jpndave]

I have a ton of tabs open looking for a similar solution. I have the mentioned Cold Steel Master Hunter (mine is older with the gut hook) It's a good knife but heavy.

Tyto finisher - Kifaru one in orange/zombie green obnoxious color combo, but it's less likely to go unnoticed and left on the mountain. Love this little knife and it's staying in my pack! The scalpel blades are great for what they are but not rigid enough for everything. I had the previous ti version, my son now owns that. I prefer the shape of the finisher.

Kifaru Logo Tyto Knife - Kifaru International

Kifaru Logo Tyto Knife With design help from Aron Snyder this Titanium replacement blade knife is a little beast. The Finisher Ti features grade 5 Titanium with Orange Cerakote in a compact profile. At only 5” inches long it will fit in your bino harness at a weight where you won’t even know...

kifaru.net

For me it's going to be the Tyto Finisher plus a fixed lightweight knife (currently searching to buy) in the kill kit. I also have the GRÄNSFORS SMALL HATCHET which may not be in that kill kit but available to break down bone, etc. https://www.gransforsbruk.com/en/product/gransfors-small-hatchet/

So, here are a bunch of links for reference. Right now I am leaning towards the Hogue.

Extrak® Fixed Blade

SPECS + Blade Length: 3.3” + Overall Length: 7.375” + Weight: 1.9 oz BLADE + Profile: Clip Point + Thickness: 0.094"+ Material: CPM M4 Tool Steel+ Hardness: 62-64 HRC + Treatment: Cryogenically Heat Treated + Finish: Hunter Orange Cerakote® + Flat Grind -

www.hogueinc.com

I have a couple of their folders that have been fantastic knives. I have the Deka (non auto open version of the Wharncliffe blade previously mentioned) I like it for a daily carry but wouldn't use it in a kill kit. IMO a knife will a belly is much better.

Deka® Manual Folder

SPECS + Blade Length: 3.25” + Closed Length: 4.25” + Overall Length: 7.5” + Weight: 2.3 oz BLADE + Profile: Modified Wharncliffe with Ambidextrous Thumb Studs + Material: CPM 20CV Stainless Steel + Thickness: 0.094”+ Hardness: 59-61 HRC+ Treatment: Cryoge

www.hogueinc.com

My favorite Daily is the Benchmade Osborne carbon but I find I use the Hogue more because I am really fond of the Osborne and don't want to lose it. Probably dumb and should rethink that to enjoy the knife. To me a folder is not as good diving into a kill where everything has to be cleaned out of it later, too many nooks and crannies to collect blood, fat, etc. Plus these new light and slim fixed blade glide through everything better IMO.

Benchmade altitude is up there. The feedback I have seen goes both ways. If you are ok with the finer control of the stubby scales guys love them. If you want a full fist grip you'll hate it is the feedback I have seen. I think I would like it. I can't find it on their site currently but lots of other places show them in stock.

Both Argali knives come highly rated

Carbon Knife

Ultralight and ultra-sharp, the Carbon Knife from Argali is a "one knife" solution for backcountry hunters that want to be able to cut up an entire elk or deer without needing to sharpen their knife. Crafted in the USA from super-premium S35VN stainless steel, the Carbon Knife is guaranteed for...

argalioutdoors.com

Serac Knife

The Serac is a lightweight, razor sharp backcountry hunting knife designed to cut up any big game animal without needing to be sharpened. Made from super premium S35VN steel and complete with a ferro rod striker, the Serac has a deep belly and a drop point blade designed as a do it all knife for...

argalioutdoors.com

Fastpak

Only 2 oz with sheath!

www.rainierusa.com

Special Edition Ovis Hunter — Kestrel Knives

In Stock Special Edition Cerakote Ovis Hunter Mix and Match Handle Colors and Blade colors Designed as an all purpose mountain hunting knife, the Ovis Hunter gets the job done fast and efficiently. The upswept blade and fine point make it extremely versatile and ready for any task you may t

www.kestrelknives.com

K1 Ultralight Hunting Knife

For the backcountry hunter, every ounce matters. The K1 fixed blade knife ensures reliability when you need it and at just one ounce, disappears when you don’t. This knife is lightweight so you can outmaneuver the herd, tough so you can count on it wherever your hunt takes you, and easy to...

ironwilloutfitters.com

K1 Ultralight Hunting Knife

For the backcountry hunter, every ounce matters. The K1 fixed blade knife ensures reliability when you need it and at just one ounce, disappears when you don’t. This knife is lightweight so you can outmaneuver the herd, tough so you can count on it wherever your hunt takes you, and easy to...

ironwilloutfitters.com

Shop — Uinta Knife Company

www.uintaknifecompany.com

https://tytoknives.com/shop/gssk7kwryppb9f7zswlx1ngy4zj2hd also have the ghost

There are a couple of good discussions on other forums but not sure I should post links to those here. I'd appreciate any feedback others have on any of these.

 

[Hand Skills]

I can't believe how this thread has taken off. I'm always up for a knife discussion, but 8 pages in one day, such thoughtful contributions... Such little banter... Where am I...?

Having run the gamut of production knives, I turned to the study of metallurgy, dabbling in knife and tool making along the way. This gave me a greater appreciation for what a master bladesmith can really do.

It's kind of like the difference between a factory rifle and a custom rifle.

Through careful attention to detail, some custom knife makers endeavor to squeeze all the performance they can out of the best available materials.

As @osok-1k and @Methow Packer emphasized, heat treat is critical. This is one area custom makers can really leverage performance over production facilities who typically work on larger batches at a given time.

Geometry is also critical. Custom knife makers can grind to finer tolerances. Steel is more difficult to work on after it's been hardened, and a master bladesmith will be proud to put in a little extra time and consumables at the end to offer the best performance possible.

The thinner a blade is, the less of a wedge it makes, and the better it cuts.

Another way to think of it is, it's the geometry that cuts, the steel is just there to hold the geometry.

Knife nuts often talk about thickness "BTE" or behind the edge.

Production knives typically measure .020-.030" behind the edge. This way they can grind a knife soft (or annealed), send it for hardening, then finish it a put an edge on. Limiting the amount of work after thermal processing is critical to economy.

High performance knife makers will grind to .010" - some even less. If a blade was ground this thin and the sent for heat treating, it would warp ... So this means grinding after hardening, which is much more laborious.

If the heat treat is good, thin edges will cut (seemingly) forever and are a lot easier to touch up when the time comes.

Support your local knifemaker!

 

[kfreeze]

Looking to upgrade my knife in my kill kit this year before the archery season. I'm looking for suggestions.

I'm a pack hunter. For that reason, I carry one knife, and 100% of the time I use the gutless method to pack out meat. That said, I currently have a brand that uses disposable blades. Personally, I think it's just meh.

I've been thinking maybe a fix blade, and have been eye balling for some time the Benchmade Altitude. What say the wise internet? No budget.

I have a cold steel master hunter cpm-3v model and that thing stays sharp a long time. I've gutted 5 deer (and I use the knife to split the sternum open on then) and it was 5 deer (160-175 lb dressed minesota does) before it was getting where I wanted it a little sharper. They are nice because they are small and light weight. Make sure you get the more expensive cpm-3v steel from cold steel though.

 

[D$tring]

Check out Montana Knife Company's Speed Goat. I have been very pleased with their knives.

This. I am also a backcountry backpacker and use the gutless method exclusively. Nicest fixed blade knife I have held. Good balance of light weight, and strong as well as sharp and holds an edge. Blade is proper depth and width to do great for all around gutless breakdown. I still carry an outdoor edge in my pocket for daily use, cord cutting, grouse cleaning etc.

I have used havalon (only good for caping faces imo), benchmade altitude (struggled with grip a bit, but held edge well through a couple deer) argali carbon (good with better grip but struggled when cold/slippery and blade was a little large edge to back for my taste). However Used it for two deer two elk and a moose before needing sharpening.

I feel the MKC speedgoat is perfect for all around backpack hunting. Only gripe — gotta be dang fast on the internet checkout when they are available. Sell out in 1-2 minutes every time; took me several tries to score one.