Weatherby Case?

jsthntn247

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Jan 14, 2009
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I have a Rem SPS chambered it .257 Wby. I has been bedded in a B&C medalist. I worked up a load with Re 22 and 100gr Swift Scirrocco's that shoots 3700 fps and will stack them usually. I say usually because some of the brass will be really easy to chamber and some will be extremely hard. While shooting a 725 yards the other day, the hard to chamber brass would shoot inside a 3" group. When I would load one that was easy to bolt, I wouldn't even hit paper. All this brass has been fired the same amount of times with the same gun and the same loads. Any clues on why some are hard to close the bolt on and some are not. I think I might need one of those body dies for magnum cases to get all the brass the same??
 
I cant imagine why you cant hit the paper with the easy to chamber rounds but here are my first thoughts. obviously the ones that fit the chamber snugly shoot better because they are the same dimension as your chamber and the ejector cant push them over to one side of the chamber thus starting the bullet in the throat crooked. Second thought is why if you are doing everyhting the same are you getting varied results? IF you are indeed doing everything the same this shoudnt happen. Have you checked your loaded cartridges for runout? I have seen dies make bent shells. Has the rifle shoot at this range with no issues before? if you have eliminated all variables in your procedures. I reccomend neck sizing only. and pushing the shoulder back every 4-5 reloads and annealing. Maybe your cases have been reloaded enough that some are work hardened and are reacting to the dies differently. I anneal all of my cases every time I bump the shoulder back (which is when they get very difficult to chamber and eject.) Annealing should bring them all back to a similar hardness and you will have less variance from cartridge to cartridge. What kind of dies do you use? I have started switching to the Redding Type S Bushing dies. I find them to be worth the extra money.
 
I sent this gun back to Remington shortly after I got it because I couldn't get once fired brass to chamber after FL resizing and reloading. The headspace is correct but I have a feeling either the chamber is extremely tight or loose. The people that checked the gun over said the ejector was too hard and they replaced somthing. I know that the ejector, button on end of bolt, is extremely hard to push down with the bolt in my hand. And after I shoot a few times, there is brass shavings on the ejector face. This gun will shoot .25moa with the tight fitting loads and I really don't want to mess with it too much but it is a hunting gun and I can't cycle the tight fitting rounds fast enough. I was hoping that a collet die like this one would resize the case all the way to the belt and make it chamber easier,Innovative Technologies - Reloading Equipment. The marks from hard chambering rounds are on the tip of the belt.
 
another though you do make sure you trim your brass right? take a hard to chamber case and cover it with black marker then chamber it. where it the marker rubbed off at?
 
With weatherby brass you should be able to just neck size up to 5 or 6 times and trim the neck every other time at most, you do not need the innovative tech die for a hunting rifle. As Mike mentioned anneal the cases after 5 or 6 neck sizings and then full length them and start all over, those cases can last 15+ reloads. I think your full lengthing every time and squeezing the body back in but your die is out of adjustment and your not bumping all the shoulders back enough or your forgeting to cam over the press every time.
 
Backwoods, I think your right. I have 40 pieces of 3X fired brass and every one chambered smoothly. It was a tight fit but the bolt closed easily over every one. After I FL resize 7 out of 10 are extremely hard to close the bolt on, and those same pieces close easily now. I can't figure out what my die is doing this though, I FL resize all my rifles and this is the only one I have a problem with. Definitely need to cancel my order on that collet die and get me a couple neck sizing dies for this gun, my 223, and 7mag.
 
Think I have figured my problem out. I was setting my die up by screwing in down to the shell plate plus 1/4 turn. By doing this, I believe I am bumping my headspace back to much and causing my case to buckley right above the belt where it is thinnest. My fired cases fit nicely until I resize them, so I just bought a neck sizing die and a wilson case gauge. Hopefully I can get a few firings with the neck sizer, then I can measure my headspace with the wilson guage and set it to bump the shoulder back minimally, causing the brass not to buckle. Do yall think this is the right way to go????
 
Yes but even with a full length die( RCBS or Redding) you should ge able to go 1 - 2 turns after hitting the shellholder and depending on the type of press, it should cam over and not push it back to far, but neck sizing is the way to go cause the case is already fitted for your chamber. Fyi H4831 is a much better powder than RE22 for 100grn pills, use it with 210m or br2 primers instead of magnum primers and you will likely find a load that is just as fast and a lot more consistent. If ok accuracy, a not so good ES, and balls out speed is your thing 75+ grns of RE25 is the ticket, I could get close to 3900fps with 75.5grns of RE25 but NOTE that is over max even though it showed no pressure in my rifle always start about 4 or 5 grns low. With H4831 and 100 grain pills you will like not find pressure at the same charge weight your using of RE22 but obviously DON'T start near that high.
 
Think I have figured my problem out. I was setting my die up by screwing in down to the shell plate plus 1/4 turn. By doing this, I believe I am bumping my headspace back to much and causing my case to buckley right above the belt where it is thinnest. My fired cases fit nicely until I resize them, so I just bought a neck sizing die and a wilson case gauge. Hopefully I can get a few firings with the neck sizer, then I can measure my headspace with the wilson guage and set it to bump the shoulder back minimally, causing the brass not to buckle. Do yall think this is the right way to go????

Have you checked your trim to length?

Like backwoods said, once the shellholder makes contact, 1/4 to 1/2 turn more won't matter unless it's a collet die.

If the case is buckling from a standard FL sizing die, the necks may be stretching too long and needing to be trimmed.

Similarly issues can occur if you're crimping with your seater.

-- richard
 
with my 300 wby, if i have a tight case it is usually caused by length, i never full length resize unless i have to, usually trimming the case solves the issue of a tight case. Check your lengths, sounds more likely that is the cause.
 
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