Wax-in your blueing, along with your wood. Weather Protection.

I have used wax before and it can make a stock slick. These days I use a silicone cloth every time I use a gun. Fingerprints, surface rust are a thing of the past. I will say "Blue" finishes have become the minority in my safe. Cerrocoat, stainless, and DLC are much more common and perform better for corrosion.
 
I use Rusteprufe oil for rust protection. A friend turned me on to it when I bought my first high end shotgun. We use this stuff on $50k shotguns that are covered with sweat or rain. Just wipe them down and put them in a hard case. They will NOT rust. Do not use this stuff as a lube though. It gets like cosmoline in cold weather. I use it on all my hunting guns now for rust protection, stainless or not. Google them and read up on this amazing stuff. the good news is it isn't expensive at all.
 
Had not thought about it but has anyone had any luck with the 'Quck Ceramic' coating like they use on car finishes. Might make since.

Yes, ceramic coating will do fine, but ordinary car body wax like Turtle hard shell wax works perfectly and in glass bedding as a release agent too.

Apply 2 or 3 coats polishing every coat. Can be removed just like ordinary car wax.

Just don't do it on the stock, there are better permanent waterproofing agents for barrel channel, magazine or bedding cut outs areas.
 
My dad use to always wax his guns before hunting, he'd put the wax on and leave it, no buffing it off to make it slick. I also use wax on my guns because in the humid environment I live in they can rust up pretty quickly and I've found it lasts longer than a thin oil coating. But at the end of the season I still wipe down the outside with an oily rag and clean and coat the bore. I try not to use anything with silicone in it as it can make a wood stock harder to touch up or refinish by someone in the future. I've been using Trewax floor wax for years, when I called them years ago I was told they didn't use silicone in it, it's a very hard carnauba wax.
 
As a builder/remodeler I've come to detest silicone..... the most over used product for "water proofing" nothing sticks to it or its residue.
Yah, I like silicone for o-rings, seals and other rubber parts but not for wood. You'll sometimes have to use a fisheye preventer when refinishing wood that's had silicone applied to it no matter how hard you've tried to remove the old finish.
 
For Weather Protection (preventing rust/corrosion)

Am I reading this right that guys are WAXING blued and stainless gun metal?

And wood stocks?

I never heard of waxing steel. I have always gone with whatever gun oil works/is plentiful.
Use G-96 for protection. If you put wax on, I imagine it would be hard to totally remove.
 
I just got some Barricade to put on an old Ruger .41 mag that I have had since 1979. It has spent a lot of time in a holster when fishing and hunting in big bear country. The finish is gone. I won't use it on the grips, but the rest sure needs some help.
 
I have been adding beeswax to my mineral spirit / tung oil finish used on several stocks. The top coat is approx. 5% beeswax by volume. Heating/dissolving the wax on a double boiler, storing in a warm spot and using within several days keeps the wax fluid. I don't think I would wax blued steel. I did try "FrogLube". It claims it is a plant-derived "wax." It has good protective qualities, but dries and gums over time -- not good for small moving parts.
 
For Weather Protection (preventing rust/corrosion)

Am I reading this right that guys are WAXING blued and stainless gun metal?

And wood stocks?

I never heard of waxing steel. I have always gone with whatever gun oil works/is plentiful.
Wax is a great way to protect wood and metal. Many knowledgeable folks have been doing it for years. Good old Johnson's paste wax is great for either. Renwax is also a very good wax and is used by may collectors when they display their collections.

Wax hold up must better than oil and will not collect dust like oil does.
 
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