Wandering 10/22 POI fixes?

6pakzak

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I just picked up a Ruger 10/22 with a 25inch stainless Sporter barrel made by green mountain in a Magpul x22 stock, first shot 1.5 inch groups at 50yds, so looked at action screw, it was over 50 inch pounds and there is a barrel support that was adjusted high up, when I took action screw to 20lbs and adjusted barrel support so it didn't touch my groups got around .5 inch's and had to adjust scope dial one full turn up. Was happy with groups but they kept grouping in different spots so I bedded rear of action and not so much movement but still some so all I can figure is barrel to receiver, I took barrel off, was pretty snug and thinking of using 638 locktite to lock it in when I put it back together, also ordered v block to take droop out, wondering what you guys think but let me add another idea I had, what if I get a little longer screw that holds scope base down over barrel and drill a small shallow hole into barrel so it can help lock that barrel in place by the screw going slightly into that shallow hole, anybody done it? Bad idea, let me know.
 
I'd bed the front of the action & two or three inches of the barrel. That should stabilize things.
I thought of doing that but the stock has hollow areas around the action screw so I would have to fill them up which can be done with a lot of bedding but as far as bedding some of the barrel doesn't look good cause the stock uses a reversible piece under the barrel so you can use a heavy profile or Sporter barrel which is held in place by 3 screws, I would have to bed to that piece, if it was a wood stock it would be fine but that piece isn't the most solid to bed to, also why I don't like the barrel support cause the stock could flex a little if supported on something which transmits right to barrel so I think my only answer is to stabilize barrel to action and free float barrel, I don't want to buy a new stock, I just want to work with what I got, even thought of jb welding barrel in, I know it will never come out.
 
I always thought the rifle should have two action screws. I stabilized my 10-22 with a heavier Clerke fluted barrel by having a forward pressure point. I then torque the action screw in 5 in/lb increments shooting for tightest group size.

I have read of some shooters threading the barrel in two locations and pulling the barrel into a bedded channel leaving the action screw fairly loose and action floated.

A tip that might help things. Have you checked to see if the bullet is being deformed as it is fed from the magazine? To do this shoot a round then carefully extract the round that was fed into the chamber. ( doing this manually will not work) See if the lead has a small scrape on its lower area. If it does that portion of the entrance to the chamber needs to ever so slightly polished.
 
What ammo are you shooting ? Normally Green Mountain barrels shoot extremely tight.
I'm shooting cci standard velocity, I'm actually getting good groups, many have been under 3/8 after I bedded rear of receiver, the problem is my group will shift a little right, left or down. When I screwed the barrel support on the stock up to support the barrel it shot about an inch high, then I loosened it so it did not contact the barrel and my groups slowly started moving back down to where I started, that's why I think the barrel is moving slightly in the receiver, the barrel can shoot but I think I need to eliminate any movement on fit to receiver
 
I always thought the rifle should have two action screws. I stabilized my 10-22 with a heavier Clerke fluted barrel by having a forward pressure point. I then torque the action screw in 5 in/lb increments shooting for tightest group size.

I have read of some shooters threading the barrel in two locations and pulling the barrel into a bedded channel leaving the action screw fairly loose and action floated.

A tip that might help things. Have you checked to see if the bullet is being deformed as it is fed from the magazine? To do this shoot a round then carefully extract the round that was fed into the chamber. ( doing this manually will not work) See if the lead has a small scrape on its lower area. If it does that portion of the entrance to the chamber needs to ever so slightly polished.
Your reply made me realize something, kinda embarrassed to admit it but I always thought when people talked about threading the barrel that the barrel was actually threaded into the receiver so I never considered it cause I was afraid if done wrong the barrel wouldn't be lined up correctly and both receiver and barrel are junk, so didn't want to trust anyone to do it, but I always thought why can't you thread a couple screws into barrel through upper sides of receiver, I guess someone thought of it long before me, but I think that would do the trick, I'll be contacting local gunsmiths to see if I can get this done, BTW kidd does have receiver extensions for their receivers to add extra action screw to back of receiver, I have in the past drilled through the back of the Ruger 10/22 receiver and bedded it and the hole locks in the back of the receiver as the bedding fills into the hole plus I can put a cleaning rod through it to clean the barrel, but thanks, your post was only one I seen that said 2 holes and finally lightbulb went off.
 
Just a different thought, if your group locations keep moving after checking each group you might want to check you scope mounts. I had a gun where they worked loose and when I would set down the rifle it would adjust slightly but still group good.
 
I just picked up a Ruger 10/22 with a 25inch stainless Sporter barrel made by green mountain in a Magpul x22 stock, first shot 1.5 inch groups at 50yds, so looked at action screw, it was over 50 inch pounds and there is a barrel support that was adjusted high up, when I took action screw to 20lbs and adjusted barrel support so it didn't touch my groups got around .5 inch's and had to adjust scope dial one full turn up. Was happy with groups but they kept grouping in different spots so I bedded rear of action and not so much movement but still some so all I can figure is barrel to receiver, I took barrel off, was pretty snug and thinking of using 638 locktite to lock it in when I put it back together, also ordered v block to take droop out, wondering what you guys think but let me add another idea I had, what if I get a little longer screw that holds scope base down over barrel and drill a small shallow hole into barrel so it can help lock that barrel in place by the screw going slightly into that shallow hole, anybody done it? Bad idea, let me know.
at your next range session after each shot, cycle the action to eject the next cartridge, inspect the nose of the bullet. I had one where the bullet nose would hit the feed ramp and deform it, amazingly it deformed it did it the same exact way whenever it did it. I was able to polish out the problem and now it holds zero and POI is steady.
 
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This may be a dumb question, and if it is I'm sorry, but is the barrel band still on? I bought the "standard" one with the barrel band, removed it and it shoots amazingly well.
 
This may be a dumb question, and if it is I'm sorry, but is the barrel band still on? I bought the "standard" one with the barrel band, removed it and it shoots amazingly well.
No it's in Magpul x22 Stock, gun does group very well, just moves around a bit, after bedding the barrel I seen improvement, sometimes will stay in last spot then other times move which I'm pretty positive is due to barrel receiver fit, when I took off barrel to receiver screws there was a tiny bit of movement, I'm just trying to get rid of that, with cci sv it pretty much shoots under .5 at 50 so I know it can shoot.
 
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