FEENIX,
I stand corrected Sir; you were right it wasn't Gentry, I emailed Geroge Vias must be getting old, he said it was Johnny Glueck http://activecamo.com/ATSwebsite/index.html however I did get the Texas part correct.
Cheers.
Vias Muzzle brakes
- Thread starter Iron Worker
- Start date
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FEENIX,
I stand corrected Sir; you were right it wasn't Gentry, I emailed Geroge Vias must be getting old, he said it was Johnny Glueck http://activecamo.com/ATSwebsite/index.html however I did get the Texas part correct.
Cheers.FEENIX,
I stand corrected Sir; you were right it wasn't Gentry, I emailed Geroge Vias must be getting old, he said it was Johnny Glueck http://activecamo.com/ATSwebsite/index.html however I did get the Texas part correct.
Cheers.
FEENIX,
I stand corrected Sir; you were right it wasn't Gentry, I emailed Geroge Vias must be getting old, he said it was Johnny Glueck http://activecamo.com/ATSwebsite/index.html however I did get the Texas part correct.
Thank you Sir, I appreciate the update. Ron Bartlett claims it was sold to him, a bit confusing but that's OK, as long as people know where to get the MB in question.
I have the same problem but I bought a thread adapter to use my suppressor.
Shot thru the brake today ,no way is it quieter than a side port brake. But it did reduce recoil. Huge difference between 90gr bullets and 110 gr bullets.
Over bore
New Member
Have one on a custom 300 rum best 150.00 spent you won't be sorry
308stillbrass
SCAMMER
Vias brakes.... I have bought,installed,used and made similar copies.on all my varmint guns.... they work....good brakes..... 40% reduction...??? can`t say...
I shot off a bench with them..... they have holes out the bottom so if you`re on the ground...lotsa dust...
they can affect accuracy.... I have`nt saw it but in theory.... they can.I always loaded up 20 rounds.... shot 10 shot group b-4 and 10 after.... never had a problem.... accuracy wise.... I needed .300" or less on my rifles....not benchrest stds.
There`s more to putting one on than one would expect... most barrels are i.d and o.d unconcentric.So to make them work and look good it takes 2 lathe set-ups.Also correct clearence hole for bullet is critical.....
I shot off a bench with them..... they have holes out the bottom so if you`re on the ground...lotsa dust...
they can affect accuracy.... I have`nt saw it but in theory.... they can.I always loaded up 20 rounds.... shot 10 shot group b-4 and 10 after.... never had a problem.... accuracy wise.... I needed .300" or less on my rifles....not benchrest stds.
There`s more to putting one on than one would expect... most barrels are i.d and o.d unconcentric.So to make them work and look good it takes 2 lathe set-ups.Also correct clearence hole for bullet is critical.....
There is a lot of Voo Doo out there about brakes. I spoke to numerous manufacturers at the last shot show and most agree that the hole size is not that critical for recoil reduction. But of course you have to have safe clearance. I have at least eight muzzle brakes on everything from a .224 to a 45/70 Contender. None of them have been machined to match. I screw them on and check clearance with a cleaning rod.
In fact, I had a .224 brake on my 220 swift that was bored .015 over and I did not like that (did not feel safe) but it shot great and I never had a problem. But I wanted to put a JP 3 port comp on my 220 swif so I moved that .224 brake to a .204 and it works awesome; in all fairness I did not have another 204 Brake to compare it to, BUT....
The JP brakes have a .281 exit hole, suitable for anything from 204 up to 6mm. I put one on my swift and one on my 243 Long range and they are awesome. Somehow it shrank my group from my 25 year old swift from 1/2" with factory ammo to 3/8" and that gun has over 2500 HOT loads through it. And 4 prairie dog shoots. The 6mm brake hole is way bigger than most "experts" recommend and my 243 shoots like a 22 LR. For ***** and giggles I put my 30 caliber JP eliminator on my 243 (it has a .350 exit hole) and it too works great, but I need it on my 300 win mag. I put the "appropriate" JP 3 port comp on my .243 and I can't really tell the difference. SO, in my opinion, with testing... try different things just make sure your barrels and brake holes are reasonably aligned and have sufficient clearance. Don't go crazy trying to eke out every last .001. ALSO, regarding timing a brake, unless you have a special purpose, 12:00 straight up is timed. If you start tryoing to mess with counter rotation techniques and side thrust, you will drive yorself nuts! And, you can do a "reasonable' 12 o'clock up. I try to get it so it doesn't drive me crazy by eye. If you don't shoot with a bubble level your brake will not be firing up at 12 or out to 3 and 9 o'clock anyway.
Just my 4 cents, based on my a lot of experience and trial and error.
The guys who are saying they get 40% reduction in recoil and they machine the **** out of everything to be perfect.... what if I screwed on a "sloppy" brake that gave me 35% reduction? Is all I'm sayin'.
On another note, radial brakes LOOK cool. I shoot over dirt, a lot, Target shooting in the desert, prairie dog shooting in the ... well, prairies and there is a lot of dirt and dry stuff and radial brakes are out. Besides, you want downward and rearward thrust, not upward thrust! You just have to look at the original tank brakes on anti-tank guns from the 30's and 40's. They knew what worked back then and nothing has changed, except the way people want their equipment to look.
ALL of that being said, if you have the money or capacity to have the brake fitted to the barrel it is definitely nice and preferred. Is it necessary? Not unless something is grossly misaligned, which I have not experienced yet.
In fact, I had a .224 brake on my 220 swift that was bored .015 over and I did not like that (did not feel safe) but it shot great and I never had a problem. But I wanted to put a JP 3 port comp on my 220 swif so I moved that .224 brake to a .204 and it works awesome; in all fairness I did not have another 204 Brake to compare it to, BUT....
The JP brakes have a .281 exit hole, suitable for anything from 204 up to 6mm. I put one on my swift and one on my 243 Long range and they are awesome. Somehow it shrank my group from my 25 year old swift from 1/2" with factory ammo to 3/8" and that gun has over 2500 HOT loads through it. And 4 prairie dog shoots. The 6mm brake hole is way bigger than most "experts" recommend and my 243 shoots like a 22 LR. For ***** and giggles I put my 30 caliber JP eliminator on my 243 (it has a .350 exit hole) and it too works great, but I need it on my 300 win mag. I put the "appropriate" JP 3 port comp on my .243 and I can't really tell the difference. SO, in my opinion, with testing... try different things just make sure your barrels and brake holes are reasonably aligned and have sufficient clearance. Don't go crazy trying to eke out every last .001. ALSO, regarding timing a brake, unless you have a special purpose, 12:00 straight up is timed. If you start tryoing to mess with counter rotation techniques and side thrust, you will drive yorself nuts! And, you can do a "reasonable' 12 o'clock up. I try to get it so it doesn't drive me crazy by eye. If you don't shoot with a bubble level your brake will not be firing up at 12 or out to 3 and 9 o'clock anyway.
Just my 4 cents, based on my a lot of experience and trial and error.
The guys who are saying they get 40% reduction in recoil and they machine the **** out of everything to be perfect.... what if I screwed on a "sloppy" brake that gave me 35% reduction? Is all I'm sayin'.
On another note, radial brakes LOOK cool. I shoot over dirt, a lot, Target shooting in the desert, prairie dog shooting in the ... well, prairies and there is a lot of dirt and dry stuff and radial brakes are out. Besides, you want downward and rearward thrust, not upward thrust! You just have to look at the original tank brakes on anti-tank guns from the 30's and 40's. They knew what worked back then and nothing has changed, except the way people want their equipment to look.
ALL of that being said, if you have the money or capacity to have the brake fitted to the barrel it is definitely nice and preferred. Is it necessary? Not unless something is grossly misaligned, which I have not experienced yet.
Here's a link:
I recently purchased one for a .300 PRC. It is a very marked difference from no brake at all. Vais had me their unit in about a week. Just provide thread pitch/dia. along with barrel diameter at the muzzle.
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I recently purchased one for a .300 PRC. It is a very marked difference from no brake at all. Vais had me their unit in about a week. Just provide thread pitch/dia. along with barrel diameter at the muzzle.
I just called them - didn't try email/web contact.
I saw your other post, but may I ask what made you decide on a Vais? I don't want to discourage you, but it is one of my worst MB in my collection. I got rid of all my radial MBs a few years ago, but I purchased (I could not resist the price) a used rifle last year that already came with it.
It is a .300 WSM, I have a few .30 cal MBs, unfortunately, they are all 5/8-24s thread and the rifle muzzle thread is not (might be 3/4-24). As you can see with responses, there are more effective MBs out in the market.
For your consideration, "if" you are set on a radial brake, Harrell's (http://harrellsprec.com/index.php/products/muzzle-brakes) makes them for a fraction of the cost of Vais. Good luck.
longgun505
Well-Known Member
I literally have them on all of our hunting rifles. 338's, 280's, 7Mags, 35's. I have nothing but praise for them. I've used and evaluated about every type of side, 10/2-1,2,4 baffle etc brakes made. Those designed as brake only, and those for add on suppression capable from 5.56 thru 50 BMG. I've seen the final results of specific evaluations of Vias type brakes, and others, by like size and weight per caliber as fired on Weight Resisted Rail Simulation System (WRR-SS) designed to simulate different shooter weight/resistance and positional/angle resistance. (Spelled 'death by excel layout). I said 'all that' to say this...For the weight, size, barrel undulation/disturbance, recoil reduction/attenuation at the muzzle, you can definitely spend a lot more money and achieve less in like devices. It is for the reasons above that we use them. The aesthetics are quite nice when finished properly.
