Upgrading my Dies

[live2huntmt]

I currently have RCBS full length die sets for all the calibers I reload for, (17 fireball, 223, 22-250, 25-06, 270win, 270 wsm, 30-06, 300 wsm, 300 win, 300 RUM and have added a couple of RCBS neck sizer (non-bushing) dies to some of the sets. I eventually want to upgrade everything to a Redding Competition Seater die....should I go ahead and invest in Redding sizing dies as well? If so, should I go with a "Type S Bushing" or "Competion Bushing" sizer die? FL or Neck/Body? I will be sorting all my bullets by bearing surface length & then by weight....and then individually seating them to the same CBTO for unform "jump". All my brass is neck turned & weight sorted (mostly Norma & Nosler Custom). I have never used anything but basic RCBS dies and any & all input/advice is greatly appreciated! Thanks

 

[Timber338]

The Redding competition seating dies are as good as it gets. You might as well get them in the Type S Match Bushing die set that comes with a full length bushing resizing die. Since you live to hunt, I see no reason to get a neck resizing die. All of your loads are going to be near max pressure and every shot will need to be full length resized, and I personally would not neck resize for any of my rifles anyways. I've never liked neck sizing.

Control the amount you bump the shoulder during the resize operation by getting the Redding competition shellholders, they are great for any cartridge but especially useful with the belted magnums by preventing the case from headspacing on the belt.

When you go to purchase bushings, I like .003" interference for any rifle with heavy recoil, and anything small like a 22-250 I go with 002" interference. You could do .002" on a braked rifle. You just don't want your bullet to be seated deeper from recoil while it's sitting in the magazine.

 

[live2huntmt]

Can you explain to me how the Redding competition shell holders work? I always measure my head space using a Hornady head space kit....and then run my fl die down until I bump my case back .001 - .002 This is all done using RCBS basic dies and shell holders. Thanks

 

[Timber338]

Can you explain to me how the Redding competition shell holders work? I always measure my head space using a Hornady head space kit....and then run my fl die down until I bump my case back .001 - .002 This is all done using RCBS basic dies and shell holders. Thanks

You are doing the same thing by carefully adjusting your RCBS dies to bump the shoulder back. but this is a whole heck of a lot more work and I do not believe it will give as consistent of a bump. Your die is floating above the top of your shellholder when your case is fully engaged within the die at the top of the stroke, and any increase or decrease in friction could cause slightly more or less bump of the shoulder.

The redding competition shellholders are thicker at the top surface of the shellholder where it contacts the die. Your standard shellholder thickness is the most you would ever FL resize based on saami cartridge specs, and the redding kit comes with 5 shellholders with added thickness to the top of the shellholder, specifically +.002, +.004, +.006, +.008 and +010. You could still use your Hornady head space kit to measure your headspace, then you set up your die so that it makes very positive contact with the shellholder at the top of the stroke. Then you select the shellholder that gives .001 - .002 shoulder bump based on your hornady head space measurements.

With the top of the shellholder making positive contact with the die you are getting a much more repeatable shoulder bump, and with a whole lot less work adjusting your die.

 

[live2huntmt]

Thank You Sir .... I will order a competiton shell holder set with my Type S die set.....now one more question ..... I know what SIZE of bushings i need, but should I get steel or nitride?

 

[Timber338]

Thank You Sir .... I will order a competiton shell holder set with my Type S die set.....now one more question ..... I know what SIZE of bushings i need, but should I get steel or nitride?

If you use a good lube on the necks I really do not think it matters. I use Reddings imperial dry neck lube. But I still always buy the nitride bushings. They are both made from the same steel, the nitride coating just lowers the friction between the bushing and the case neck. I would guess that the nitride does nothing when used with a neck lube, but it makes me feel better so maybe that's worth something.

 

[Reloader222]

When using Redding wax make sure you lube only the front 30-40% of the neck. The moment you put too much lube on, you will get a dented shoulder since the Redding FL dies does not have a vent hole on the shoulder. You also need to first clean the insides of the necks thoroughly and lube it before sizing other wise your press (the die) would make a resisting sqeeck. Alternatively you can replace the expander ball with a carbide one and then no lube is necessary on the inside of the necks. Another bad design of Redding is their lock rings. I have replace all mine with Foster lock rings.

 

[live2huntmt]

When using Redding wax make sure you lube only the front 30-40% of the neck. The moment you put too much lube on, you will get a dented shoulder since the Redding FL dies does not have a vent hole on the shoulder. You also need to first clean the insides of the necks thoroughly and lube it before sizing other wise your press (the die) would make a resisting sqeeck. Alternatively you can replace the expander ball with a carbide one and then no lube is necessary on the inside of the necks. Another bad design of Redding is their lock rings. I have replace all mine with Foster lock rings.

Do the Type S or Competition Sizing dies even have expander balls?

 

[Timber338]

When using Redding wax make sure you lube only the front 30-40% of the neck. The moment you put too much lube on, you will get a dented shoulder since the Redding FL dies does not have a vent hole on the shoulder. You also need to first clean the insides of the necks thoroughly and lube it before sizing other wise your press (the die) would make a resisting sqeeck. Alternatively you can replace the expander ball with a carbide one and then no lube is necessary on the inside of the necks. Another bad design of Redding is their lock rings. I have replace all mine with Foster lock rings.

The dent you are talking about is why Redding has dry neck lube. it is like a graphite powder and nearly impossible to use too much which would cause a dent in the shoulder.

Also when you know your neck wall thickness and are using bushing dies, there is no need for the expander ball. just remove it from the die. Although it is still a good idea to clean the inside of your case necks so to give more consistent neck tension on the bullets.

 

[KennyA12]

Redding is fine, but have you had any trouble with RCBS? I use RCBS Gold Medal Seat Dies with the window to drop bullet in and I get great accuracy, but I am not a bench rest shooter. I think they would be just as accurate as the Redding. I use Redding, but no seaters as I think the RCBS is just as accurate and more convenient.