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Unable to remove stock. Any ideas?
- Thread starter tylerbailey1
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tylerbailey1
Member
Picking one up today. We'll see how it goes. Did you put yours in an impact drill?
royinidaho
Well-Known Member
When all else fails. . . brake out the torch!!
Trickymissfit
Well-Known Member
You need to find a good drill press, and simply drill the bolt head off with a drill that's about .010" larger than a 1/4-28 tap drill size. When the head breaks away the stock should come off easilly. Try a standard titanium coated colbalt drill bit running at about 200 rpm max. You don't want the drill bit to run fast as it willonly work harden the screw head if it's been hardened at all. Getting the rest of the screw out is pretty easy, but don't try to drill it! The screws are probably 316 stainless steel, and that's your first problem. Replace them with standard allen cap screws (Unbrako, KARR, or Allen brand), and don't buy the cheap Fastenall stuff (or Chinese). Before reinstalling the stock, run a new 1/4-28 tap thru the bolt holes, and the stainless steel will often gauld up the threads. Then coat them with a very light coat of Never Sieze with nickel. Reduce your torque spec by about 35% (I know they say 50%) and see how well that works. Never give the screws the full 40 in. lb torque with Never Sieze as you just don't need it.
gary
gary
Negative!
wwbrown
Well-Known Member
The easiest way to get these out is to use a drill press a vise and a carbide center drill. The center drill is a great tool for this as it not apt to break even though it is carbide, just run the countersunk portion in deep enough to take the head off. Using standard drills you get at a hardware will just waster time drills and money as the bolts on Savages are very hard.
The other option is take it to a gunsmith.
The other option is take it to a gunsmith.
tylerbailey1
Member
Thanks for all your help! I couldn't get a good bite on it with the grabit so I just drilled it out with a press. What a pain!! Now the real work begins with building a new stock. I'm sure I'll be back on here asking questions about pillars and glass bedding, etc.
Thanks again for your expertise, I appreciate it.
Tyler
Thanks again for your expertise, I appreciate it.
Tyler
Bummer! Sorry to hear that, I had no problem with a couple of my Savages. Good luck!
royinidaho
Well-Known Member
As is said, "There ain't no free lunch."
All is well in Pinetop!gun)
All is well in Pinetop!gun)
Trickymissfit
Well-Known Member
with a socket head cap screw it's almost always easier to just drill the head off right away. If you had a left hand drill bit that would have been better, but I'm betting that somewhere somebody overtorqued a dry stainless screw. Stainless are softer and weaker than carbon stell screws and their threads will deform under stress. There is no free lunch here. All stainless steel bolts are made of 316 SS steel, and the stuff is soft, but will work harden. The trick with drilling work hardend stainless steel screw is to get the drill bit to bite under the crust instead of just riding ontop of it. That's why I said to run the drill at about 150 rpm
The idea of using a center drill is good, but be carefull of the tip breaking off (I've had this happen a couple zillion times). In theory the broken tip will just fall out, but not always! Break a carbide one in there, and you'll have the blues! I speak of hi-roc drills a lot on here, and I literally love them! They are made of a softer grade of carbide with a strait flute. Actually drill very accurate holes. I only wish they ground them in a left hand pattern. These drills will shatter into a bunch of small pieces before they'll weld themselves to whatever your drilling. Another good method is to use a two flute end mill to cut the bolt head off. This way it dosn't mess up the seating surface for the bolt head.
How many of you folks own an air etcher and an air compressor? If you do your setting on one of the best small screw extracting setups on the planet. And it don't care if it's a left hand screw or a right handed screw.
gary
The idea of using a center drill is good, but be carefull of the tip breaking off (I've had this happen a couple zillion times). In theory the broken tip will just fall out, but not always! Break a carbide one in there, and you'll have the blues! I speak of hi-roc drills a lot on here, and I literally love them! They are made of a softer grade of carbide with a strait flute. Actually drill very accurate holes. I only wish they ground them in a left hand pattern. These drills will shatter into a bunch of small pieces before they'll weld themselves to whatever your drilling. Another good method is to use a two flute end mill to cut the bolt head off. This way it dosn't mess up the seating surface for the bolt head.
How many of you folks own an air etcher and an air compressor? If you do your setting on one of the best small screw extracting setups on the planet. And it don't care if it's a left hand screw or a right handed screw.
gary
