turning necks on weatherby brass

[GW Hunter]

I've never turn necks before and want to start for my 7mm weatherby. With the rounded angle I'm worried about cutting too close to the shoulder. It's difficult to determine where it starts. Anyone turn weatherby brass that might have pictures of a proper cut? I've been googling the heck out of it with no luck. Any info helps. Thanks...

 

[BLC3128]

Following.

 

[DUSTY NOGGIN]

21st century list a cutter #46 (edited and #30 ) for all weatherbys . im guessing its rounded or more round .

http://nebula.wsimg.com/2a18b7b0054...5AA0C95BD1D877538&disposition=0&alloworigin=1

 

[J E Custom]

21st century list a cutter #46 for all weatherbys . im guessing its rounded or more round .

http://nebula.wsimg.com/2a18b7b0054...5AA0C95BD1D877538&disposition=0&alloworigin=1

This is correct !
To do any case turning you must use the correct cutter. The Weatherby requires a cutter with a radius and your set up is very important. You are correct in being concerned about cutting into the radius and the same holds true for straight shouldered cases. you always wane to stop short of the neck shoulder junction with any turning.

I have three different cutters for my neck turner. One with a .182 radius, one with a 40o angle and one with a 30o angle these three cutters will cover most case shoulder configurations. https://www.sinclairintl.com/reload...eplacement-neck-turner-cutters-prod33869.aspx

Doesn't look like Sinclair is offering the radius cutter one any more but you can grind one of the 40o cutters to turn the Weatherby's or find one somewhere else.

J E CUSTOM

 

[Bullet bumper]

On a Weatherby case I will not comment but on a straight sided shoulder you do cut down all the way until it just touches the shoulder that way you don't leave an edge that becomes a doughnut on the inside of the case neck upon firing . A slight scrape of the shoulder junction will do no harm at all .

 

[OhYtD]

I think that even if you turned them all down to .010 there would not likely be an issue with safety, but I doubt you will gain much in accuracy as the chamber will likely have a lot of clearance .It may also cause the necks to split sooner as there will be a lot of expansion with firing and then contraction with resizing.
That being said,I certainly see where I would be unhappy with the brass if each case has .004 variation in thickness .The idea of skimming off a couple thousandths from the thick sides seems reasonable.I have brass turned to .010 in a couple guns,but they are tight necked match chambers in which this is required in order to get adequate clearance.

 

[J E Custom]

Unless you have a tight neck chamber that may require turning to a specific thickness, It is best to turn only enough to clean the case neck up. this normally only removes less than .001 to .002 thousandths.

If you trim all of the cases before turning, setting the cutter correctly using the correct cutter so it wont cut into the shoulder is easy. using a 40o cutter on a 30o shouldered case can cause problems and thin the neck at the junction. I have even dulled the shoulder angle part of the cutter for use on cases with less shoulder angle than the available cutters.

There is a wide variety of cutters but you don,t have to buy one for every cartridge you have if you look at the part list you will find that many have the same part number because they have the same shoulder angle.

J E CUSTOM

 

[BountyHunter]

On a Weatherby case I will not comment but on a straight sided shoulder you do cut down all the way until it just touches the shoulder that way you don't leave an edge that becomes a doughnut on the inside of the case neck upon firing . A slight scrape of the shoulder junction will do no harm at all .

Absolutely correct!

 

[gohring3006]

Factory rifle? If so, I agree with JE. Just clean them up to make yourself feel better..

 

[tbrice23]

It may also cause the necks to split sooner as there will be a lot of expansion with firing and then contraction with resizing

Every split neck that I have examined has split dead center of the thinnest side of the neck. The thin part stretches and expands first and stretches and expands the most.
If case necks are turned close to the same thickness there is less of a " stress riser" area to become the focus of all of the work hardening. In essence REDUCING the chances of cracked necks.

 

[antelopedundee]

Here are a couple 6.5-06 cases I recently turned using the Sinclair NT-1000 tool. The cutter is beveled on the leading edge making it harder to accidentally cut into the neck. I'd use junk cases to help set up whatever you choose to use. Unless you seat your bullets really deep, it's likely not necessary to get uber close to the neck shoulder junction.

 

[antelopedundee]

Is there a minimum desirable neck thickness? I set my cutter using a feeler gauge so that neck thickness was about .012. On some cases like PPU/Priv Partizan very little metal was removed at that setting. Others like Nosler, Norma Quality Cartridge had more removed. 6.5mm cases were expanded using a .263 carbide expander. The .262 turner mandrel was still a tight fit with Nosler and Norma brass. A breeze with the Quality Cartridge and PPU brass.

 

[tbrice23]

Unless you have a tight neck chamber, I would only turn to 85% of the neck surface is cut.

 

[antelopedundee]

On a Weatherby case I will not comment but on a straight sided shoulder you do cut down all the way until it just touches the shoulder that way you don't leave an edge that becomes a doughnut on the inside of the case neck upon firing . A slight scrape of the shoulder junction will do no harm at all .

On long neck cases like the .270 or .25-06 is the donut really a problem if you don't seat your bullets deep enough to touch the donut? For say a 6.5mm you could size them sans expander and expand if desired with a .263 or .262 mandrel. Boattail bullets should have less of an issue than flat base bullets.