Truing a Savage LA

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by CaptBeach, Nov 11, 2011.

  1. CaptBeach

    CaptBeach Well-Known Member

    Feb 6, 2011
    I just scored a disassembled 1st Gen Savage 110FP safe queen in .308, LA, 24" FP barrel, EGW 20MOA one pc scope mount and an SSS Competition SS Recoil Lug for an exceptional price, also scored an SSS Competition trigger at a steal too...Action is tentatively going into a Choate LA Tactical, not the older Dragunov style but a true tactical style drop grip stock. I'll be glass bedding the action AFTER it gets back from CDI getting bottom metal and inleting.

    I say all that to set up my subject lie question...lets talk about the merits and procedure/process of truing the front of the Savage action.

    Benefit? Real or perceived?


    How much metal are we talking about having removed?

    And any other thing you can think of...

    I'm going to be running the .308 barrel for a while simply because I have it but eventually its going to get a high end heavy barrel in 30-06.

    Capt Beach
  2. J E Custom

    J E Custom Well-Known Member

    Jul 29, 2004
    Truing or making sure that the action is true benefits any action !

    When truing any action the setup is critical and the removal of only enough metal to clean
    the face of of the action (Normally .002 to .005 is enough) some are much worse.

    In addition to truing the face the rest of the action needs to be trued at the same time.

    I normally do away with the barrel nut and use the/a shoulder on the barrel for the make up
    (It assures a square fit if done properly)

    This is only one of the processes that are required to produce a accurate rifle , but if not done
    your chances of a great rifle are not as good.

  3. Trickymissfit

    Trickymissfit Well-Known Member

    Jun 11, 2010
    send the action to Sharp Shooter, and have it timed and trued. If the rifle has the better Sharp Shooter trigger installed on it, it's already been timed and trued. (he sells two different ones). Buy a Hollands recoil lug, and I'd probably cut about 3/4" off the chamber end and rechamber it in .308 N.M. (the threads will have to be redone, but that's no biggie). Also run a tight patch thru the barrel to see if the muzzel end is looser than the rest. If so, you need to shorten that end as well.