Triggertech spring

I don't know squat about anything related to Triggertech triggers, nor do I know anything about the fancy formulas with all of the "Ks" in them. I play with Ruger 77s a lot (Rich Coyle, spelled "RUGER"!! ;) ) I play with the triggers on them and have only replaced the spring on one to get a lighter trigger pull. I can only suggest that before one "cuts" a spring, I would make certain that I have another one, or "two" factory springs on hand just in case that cutting project doesn't go as planned!! There's nothing worst than being at the range and sending an unintended AD/slam fire downrange because of a light trigger!!! Ask me how I know this!! Before modifying a trigger spring through cutting off coils, I suggest that one takes all of the measurements possible from that factory spring, including the diameter of the spring material, and then call Wollf Springs and talk to a tech there and ask their opinion on what to get for a lighter spring. What I have found with Wollf is that they sometimes have trigger spring kits depending on the rifle and the trigger. Their prices are reasonable, shipping is fast, and the tech who I spoke with really knew their products.
 
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That's called "fat fingers" and a small keyboard/screen. I do it all of the time and then spell check kicks in!! It's easy!!!!
How about being dyslexia? That help too. 🤣 Gee I have both. If it wasn't for a computer I wouldn't be doing this at all. It may had help if we computer back in the 50's and 60's. I have all, fat fingers, and dyslexia, and a smaller keyboard. 😂
 
I ordered TT diamonds this morning. Any idea what the fields would be worth.
How did the TriggerTech Diamonds work out for you? I recently bought the Special to replace the factory issued Field in my Weatherby Mark V Backcountry. Turns out that I am unable to engage the safety with the new Special. I reinstalled the Field and safety works fine. I lubed the safety and then reinstalled the Special and no joy. Back with the factory Field and safety works. I was bummed that I could not just buy a new spring for $15 like MCarbo units for other rifles; but now I'm even more bummed at having such an expensive trigger not work properly. Waiting for reply from TriggerTech.
 
different type of gun. Ruger Vaquero .45 cal in fast draw the gun comes with a very hard hammer pull around 18 pounds so for us cheap people instead of buying a new spring for 15.00 we just remove the hammer spring and cut 5 coils off and we get a much lighter pull weight around 12-13 pounds. so if shorting the spring is supposed to make it stiffer why does it not on Ruger handguns? just wondering.
 
Cutting coils does make the spring itself stiffer. That can be proven with the math formula that describes coil springs.

The spring is only part of the whole though. By shortening the spring's overall length you reduce the pre-load on it. If a spring takes 1 lb to compress it one inch it has a spring rate of 1 lbs-in. Say that you have to compress it 4 inches to install it then it has 4 in-lbs of of pre-load already on it before you try to compress it further. To make the spring move another inch in compression you have to apply 5 lbs of force to it. 4 lbs to overcome the pre-load and another lb to move it that further inch of compression.

When you cut the spring so that it only has 2 lbs of pre-load on it when installed the spring rate itself has gone up, but you've reduced the pre-load by half. Let's assume that the cut spring's new spring rate is 1.5 lbs-in. Now you only need to apply 3.5 lbs of force to make the spring move another inch.
 
Not the ideal way to test the spring rate of a spring. Best is a way to apply force directly inline with the spring while it is sitting on some sort of force or load measuring tool. Compress the spring a known distance and record the force exerted by the spring on that measuring tool.

With bigger springs you can use something like this in a vise:
tav-08001_w.jpg

The hydraulic piston is one square inch so the psi reading is directly pounds of force.
 

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