too many separate operations...looking for an accurate turret press. Is there any such thing? Opinions please.

Doesn't the Lyman have that anti flex post on the back end? Flex is why my T7 sits idle. I only know of one RCBS turret, that thing looked weak.

Yep....the Lyman has an adjustable "overtravel" for lack of a better term, which prohibits head flex!

I know nothing about the design of the T7, but, could it be modified to have an "anti flex" similar to the Lyman? memtb
 
Last edited:
Well, I'm on my second Lyman turret press that I purchased, First one was in the 70's, 6 hole turret. This second big brute is a 8 hole and much more massive all over!!
Can't beat Lyman!!!
 
Agree T-7 for a turret IMO.

I use the Inline Fab quick change plates, easier to keep the work surface clear for using a gun vise or other things. They have plates for Dillon 650s and the T-7.



Get another head, you can swap in and out the same way you can change heads on the 650.
There is also and upgrade kit for the Redding Turret Press. Check out Gavintoobe on YouTube.
 
our family currently have a dillon 650xl progressive and a rcbs single stage lil partner press. With the added operations of full length S die, then inserting the mandrel to set neck tension, then powder drop bullet seating and crimp with a Lee FCD.. I'm thinking hard about a rcbs T-7 turret press. With this add inaccuracy to my reloads?
Maybe a different turret press? Just trying to save time
Redding T-7. Buy extra tool heads so you can have one pre set for each of the rifles and/or calibers you load for.
 
you guys talk about the turret head "flexing" like you're yarding on the handle with 100# of force.
The least amount of force in the reloading process is bullet seating...and that is almost nothing, also the most delicate process in making accurate ammo. I'm thinking the flex thing is a mute point, but I've been wrong before.
I never gave it a thought that pulling the case neck over an expander ball would lead to coecentricity issues. My eyes have been opened.
And maybe I'm all wet trying to make a semi-auto AR 10 6mmCreedmoor a 1/2" sub MOA rifle.
 
area 419 zero
tell me if this a good enough reason to buy one.... this comment is from one of the owners from the 419 in regards to a coax press.

float indicates off a lock ring leaves a lot for us
leaves what? He doesn't go into it. A 90 degree angle from ram to turret head is the bottom line.

I heard a few F class guys brush off .004 bullet run out. So how important is that kind of tolerance?
 
you guys talk about the turret head "flexing" like you're yarding on the handle with 100# of force.
The least amount of force in the reloading process is bullet seating...and that is almost nothing, also the most delicate process in making accurate ammo. I'm thinking the flex thing is a mute point, but I've been wrong before.
I never gave it a thought that pulling the case neck over an expander ball would lead to coecentricity issues. My eyes have been opened.
And maybe I'm all wet trying to make a semi-auto AR 10 6mmCreedmoor a 1/2" sub MOA rifle.
I think if by chance you could induce flex in a T7 while seating bullet, you will be buckling necks or severely scraping bullet jacket.
If there is such a thing as flex, even with an "O" style press, once you have everything set to size brass that is consistent in length(bump), and case diameter, to your standards. The one thing that can disrupt this now is inconsistent lube.
In my opinion, by design, Most turret presses will exhibit more flex than a heavy O, or coax design.

I may have been the one to introduce flex to the thread, whether your new T7 does or not, or if it does, only you will be able to decide if there are adverse effects.
 
Milo

Flex will creep in eventually with even a 419 zero, and checking along the way is the only way to stay away from it. Buy 2 419's or T7's or whatever. One on spare, guess that's the best way to keep rolling. Even the 419's teflon bushing for the ram will wear out eventually
 
Last edited:
Milo

Flex will creep in eventually with even a 419 zero, and checking along the way is the only way to stay away from it. Buy 2 419's or T7's or whatever. One on spare, guess that's the best way to keep rolling.
I'm not here to promote a product, but the T7 was designed mid 2000's? The zero 2 yrs ago.
I have yet to see junk come from 419, frivolous, maybe, but they had a lot in their corner to make it right. A way heavier, larger surface area stanchion, lock down, etc..
My brother in law has a zero, I do not, but just by messing with it, the T7 shouldn't be used in the same sentence. 3+ x the price alone takes away any comparison.
 
Why not just use your Dillon? That was life changing for me. I run all the sizing operations on the Dillon (and prime) then I trim/chamfer/deburr. Drop powder and seat bullet at the same time on another press. Literally cut my reloading time in half if not more and the ammo shoots just as good if not better.
 
Why not just use your Dillon? That was life changing for me. I run all the sizing operations on the Dillon (and prime) then I trim/chamfer/deburr. Drop powder and seat bullet at the same time on another press. Literally cut my reloading time in half if not more and the ammo shoots just as good if not better.
LOL, BIngo!
 
FWIW, I use a Lyman T-Mag II press and either Lee or RCBS standard reloading dies. My runout when I checked was <0.003". With a little bit of attention I reduced it to ~0.0015" simply by adjusting the turret support screw each time I use it. That's for 223 and 308.

I think that any of the major supplier turret presses can achieve this level of quality.
 
Top