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Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by kc, Nov 27, 2012.
I say the first thing is a total Blue Print.
Understand what the true meaning of your post is, but.....
MOST rifles, regardless of brand or caliber, are capable of outshooting me. So, I would say, practice would be first. If I am not a disciple of breathing, trigger control, etc, etc.....the basics is what usually trips me up...not the rifle.
There are several rifles in my safe, bone stock to aftermarket this and that....that can outshoot me. Ever loaned a rifle to somebody at the range and they outshoot you with your own equipment?
In my opinion, a quality trigger, barrel that shoots well, good glass, ammo with consistent neck tension AND minimal runout.....and me with my A game...can usually bring home the bacon. (and the moons need to be aligned as well!)
Just my opinion, but I'd start with:
Good Match Quality barrel with a clean sharp and true Crown.
Match grade ammo going down the barrel.
Concentric alignment between the axis of the bore, the chamber, the receiver and boltface/locking lugs.
Stress free scope and mounts that don't shift under recoil or rough gun handling.........Scope must absolutely hold zero, and be of decent magnification. I prefer at least 14X for 1/2 moa or better shooting.
Stress free bedding of the action and a floated barrel.
Quality trigger with a crisp consistant break and light weight of pull.
Last but not least, consistant shooting form whether off the bench or prone with bipod, or sitting with sticks or sling.
Proper hold, or lack of in some instances (a death grip on the stock doesn't produce good groups). Good trigger squeeze and follow through with good sight alignment.
BRASS (breath, relax, aim, sight and squeeze)
"Tiger that reticle" on the target.
Watch em tip over.
I always start with a realistic budget. lightbulb
Why not just start with a Defiance, Stiller or other custom action?
For ultimate accuracy I like a big solid tight fitting foundation. For me that is found in the single shot Bat actions. Kill the harmonics with shear mass. A stiff barrel mounted in a barrel block is another way to go.
What is a barrel block? Are you speaking of something similar to what Darrel Holland used to do with his V-Block rifles...........The first few inches of barrel actually bolted to the stock inside a V shaped cradle and the action free-floated??
I always was quite intrigued by that idea, but never got around to having him build me one. Last time I talked with him, he kinda implied he's found a better way since then.?
Here is a crude but effective representation of a barrel block. 6.5 "Mystic" Barrel Block F-Classer The barrel is mounted in a block and the action and the rest of the barrel are free floated. It cuts harmonics by reinforcing the barrel and making it effectivly shorter. This makes the lever/barrel shorter and effectively stiffer.
Hollands V-Block was V shaped aluminum block under the barrel that screwed into a sleeve mounted to the barrel with a forward nut threaded onto the barrel. Another cleaner but somewhat less effective is to mount the barrel directly onto a V shaped or epoxy bedded bottom block with 4 1/4-28 screws in a straight section of barrel. The action is then floated in each version.
Start with a good gunsmith. Doesn't matter what components are chosen if the guy doesn't pay attention to detail or know what he's doing. There's a reason why some "budget" rifles shoot so well and some high end might be slightly disappointing.
A truly great rifle requires the best of all parts,combined with the best workmanship,
and the skill to chose the right procedures for the action and use.
As someone said, the best parts don't automatically make an accurate rifle, It requires skill
to use them to there best advantage.
I for one, think that It first starts with a quality barrel. Then all other things follow.
J E CUSTOM
Quality barrel. Quality work. Quality stock.
Is having my rifle bluprinted realy help?
Yes, No and Maybe. Depends on alot of variables.