timing

If you look at a brake, the ports will direct the gasses at an angle. Some brakes have top ports too.
Think of the barrel, with the top at 0°. Top ports should eject exactly at 0°, side ports at 90° and 270°.
Timing is so the threads of your barrel end and the brake line up so your angles are exact above when the brake is bottomed to the barrel end and tightened to 30 ft-lbs (or whatever the recommended torque is.)

If your timing is off, the recoil may push your barrel end one way or the other. For example, if you have a 4 port brake with top holes, being off 5° CW from the shooter's view will push your muzzle to the left as the bullet exits.
Will it affect accuracy? Can't say. I bought a used rifle with a poorly timed brake and at 100 I never found any accuracy issues. On my LR rifles, have gone to great lengths to ensure proper timing.

No idea if these videos are any good:


 
Last edited:
Not sure what you guys think but I just prefer to use MB's that dont require timing
E.g
Grizzly.png


They may not be as directional but then again I dont think thats a bad thing especially if shooting freehand.

While still reducing reciol some MB's still push the barrel around a bit imo.
 
Non-directional brakes are fine, not as effective as large ported brakes in my experience, but OK so long as you don't shoot prone.

Self-timing brakes, crush washers, timing washers, etc. are desirable for those that don't want to take the rifle to a smith.

Having a smith set the shoulder to time the brake, contour or blend it seamlessly into the barrel so you can't even see it
is the way to go if you don't like the looks of the DIY options.

KhikwqNl.jpg
 
Warning! This thread is more than 4 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top