The .338 Rogue

Just received my Bartlein barrel, Muscle brake, and actions screws following melonite treatment by Controlled Thermal Technologies (CTT) in Arizona. Their melonite treatment looks good. It appears they put some time into removing any treatment residue from the treated items. Even the bore looks remarkably clean. The first rifle barrel I had melonite treated has visible residue in the bore upon receipt.

Turnaround time was about 2 1/2 weeks from the time I shipped my items to CTT.
 
Just received my Bartlein barrel, Muscle brake, and actions screws following melonite treatment by Controlled Thermal Technologies (CTT) in Arizona. Their melonite treatment looks good. It appears they put some time into removing any treatment residue from the treated items. Even the bore looks remarkably clean. The first rifle barrel I had melonite treated has visible residue in the bore upon receipt.

Turnaround time was about 2 1/2 weeks from the time I shipped my items to CTT.
Still, Make sure you clean the bore thoroughly before putting bullets through it.
 
Re: The .338 Rogue _ Post Melonite Barrel Cleaning

shortgrass had it right. Still crud in the bore from the nitride treatment.

Initially, I ran a KG-1 Carbon Cleaner soaked patch down the bore. That's the patch shown in the upper left in the base of the white plastic bucket. I thought "that doesn't look too bad". Sort of a reddish-brown color.
IMG_1166.JPG


Next I set the barrel in the 2 1/2 gallon white plastic bucket next to the laundry sink. I got some hot water running, and ran a nylon bore brush down the bore with a stout dose of liquid dish washing soap back and forth thru the bore about 10 times. Rinsed the bore, bore guide, bore brush, and cleaning rod with hot water. Some blackish brown staining showed in the lathery suds that were formed, and in the bottom of the white plastic bucket.
IMG_1163.JPG


I replaced the nylon bore brush with a bronze/brass bore brush and repeated with liquid dish washing soap with the brass bore brush. Swabbed the brass brush 10 - 15 round trips down the bore. Now we're cookin'. Don't even bother with the nylon bore brush. I think you can see from the photos (compare the above photo nylon brush use to the below two photos bronze brush use), the nylon bore brush wasn't even touching/removing the black gritty particulates that remained in my bore from the salt bath nitriding treatment. I kept a Lucas bore guide in the chamber to keep the cleaning rod centralized in the bore. Rinse the bore, cleaning rod, brass brush, and the Lucas bore guide in hot water. Repeat with brass bore brush and liquid dish washing soap 4 more times, for a total of 5 separate soapy bore cleanings with the brass bore brush. By the 4th and 5th efforts, much less blackish staining is produced.

After the brass bore brush there's a blackish staining to the soapy lather and there are blackish particulates settling to the bottom of the white plastic bucket. I think the goal is to remove these black particulates from the bore to the extent possible, prior to firing bullets down the nitrided bore.
IMG_1164.JPG


The bottom of the bucket was a clean white color prior to the use of the brass bore brush.
IMG_1165.JPG


Next I cleaned the chamber with a 16 gauge brass shotgun bore brush and liquid dish soap. Spun this brass bore brush with a battery powered drill in the chamber of the barrel. Rinsed everything off with very hot water (water heated in microwave), while wearing nitrile gloves to prevent scalding burns to my left hand. Next I spun some Flitz inside the chamber using a snug fitting brass bore brush wrapped with cotton fabric until snug fitting, to polish any remaining particulates from the nitride treatment out of the chamber.

Using the brass bore brush in the chamber, and especially in the bore, as much as I ran it down the bore, will leave bronze/brass on the surface of the bore. So out comes the Bore Tech Eliminator (BTE) next. I soaked the bore with BTE by letting enough liquid run down the bore and rotating the barrel to liquid coat all interior bore and chamber surfaces. I let some of the excess drip on the white paper towel in the bottom of the bucket. Left the BTE in the bore for 10 minutes and then swabbed bore with cleaning patches. The heavy bluish staining is residual from the brass bore brush. In addition to the blue from the brass bore brush, I noted some brownish staining on the BTE patches. This is especially visible on the square patch in the center of the bucket.
IMG_1166.JPG


Since the BTE soaked patches were removing a brownish stain from the bore, I soaked a nylon bore brush with BTE and ran it back and forth 15 times. Patched out the bore. Used the nylon bore brush soaked in BTE again. The blue staining from the use of the brass bore brush in the bore was long gone, yet I continued to get some brown staining on the white patches. I continued with BTE until only a very little brown stain was produced on new white patches.

Then I ran a few acetone soaked patches down the bore and in the chamber to remove all cleaning products. Lastly, I sprayed some Tri-Flow lubricating/penetrating product on some white patches and swabbed the bore a number or times. The lowest-most round patch in the bucket is the Tri-Flow patch. Just a very little brownish staining. DONE.

I also applied BTE on patches and cleaned the exterior of the barrel. Then also applied Tri-Flow to the exterior of the barrel for storage.

Took me 1 1/2 to 2 hours from start to finish. I'm a piddler...
 
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The biggest mistake some make is the failure to thoroughly clean the bore before shooting. It's only specuation, but I believe those who had a negative experience with nitriding didn't do a good job of cleaning before shooting. Obviously, it's much easier to do without the barrel being installed on the action. This one should be 'good to go'. (If you don't have the capability to remove & install barrels yourself and have your gunsmith do it, this is where some of the cost comes from)
 
I have a question about cleaning after nitride.
I assume using a brass brush does not scratch the bore because barrel is much harder than soft barrel?

Can barrel be cleaned good enough using a nylon brush after nitride?

Ray
 
Rifle barrels are made of "heat treated" steel to begin with. Chrome moly or stainless steel, both are "hardened and tempered". The nitride treatment about doubles the surface hardness, so a brass brush won't hurt it and is recommended if you want results. A nitrided barrel can no longer be cut with high speed steel tooling, like most chambering reamers are made of, so brass won't hurt it. That hot, soapy water is probably the best to start with.
 
My Smith has two barrels I will be Nitriding. One of them in about 3 weeks.
I have read (maybe you?) that proper cleaning before and after is essential.

Thank you and Paul for your helping me and others to understand the process.

Ray
 
Obviously, it's much easier to do without the barrel being installed on the action.

Yeah, I should have mentioned that my barrel was not mounted on the action. shortgrass knew that. Not sure if the other readers could have known from my Post. Cleaning the barrel prior to screwing it back on the action allows more options for cleaning. Like messy soap and water bore brushings and hot water rinses. I placed the muzzle end down in the plastic bucket and made sure the barrel wouldn't fall over, and then had at it. I stood on an 8" tall step stool so that when I held the barrel in my left hand above the bottom of the bucket, the brass brush wouldn't bottom out in the bottom of the bucket when it popped out the muzzle end of the bore. This additional height helped ensure I didn't smash my brass bore brush into the base of the bucket, and bend it over at a 90 degree angle.

Use a bore guide that fits snug into the chamber, and don't even waste any time with a nylon brush. I'd run a BTE or other bore cleaning solvent soaked patch or two out the muzzle end initially - just to remove any loose crud. Then start in with the brass bore brush and hot soapy water. I placed liquid dishwashing soap concentrate directly on the brass bore brush every time. So I wasn't just using a diluted soapy water mixture. I had suds blowing out both ends of the barrel. Then rinse everything off with hot water. I think I had at it five times with the liquid soap concentrate and the brass bore brush. By the 4th scrubbing, I was seeing much less fouling removal, based on the color of the suds (more whitish suds and less blackish staining) and the color of the rinse water in the bottom of the bucket.
Paul
 
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