Stock modification, Bell & Carlson

[hemiford]

I have a B&C stock on a Weatherby Mark V 9-lug Accumark. At least I think it's a B&C.
So what is a B&C made out of ? Fiberglass or "Composite"?

I'm asking because what I want to do is add material around the forearm to thicken it up,
so I can open up the barrel channel, quite a bit actually. I think it will need a good 3/8-in
of material buildup on each side, less on the bottom.

So what should I use, a good epoxy / JB Weld / maybe Marine Tex ? Would stuff like this work
even if the stock is fiberglass ?

 

[Tom264]

You're gonna add a ton of weight….
I'd just sell it and get another stock with the forend you want.

 

[crashlanding]

Marine Tex bonds well, I typically try to add some type of mechanical lock

 

[hemiford]

You're gonna add a ton of weight….
I'd just sell it and get another stock with the forend you want.

True, but adding weight I don't mind. Not a lot of Weatherby stocks to choose from
and this one is relatively cheap to start with and modify.

 

[hemiford]

Marine Tex bonds well, I typically try to add some type of mechanical lock

Like little wood screws, through the Marine Tex and into the stock material ?

 

[crashlanding]

Drill holes at angles even a little helps so the compound fills them and creates a lock, marine Tex has always worked well on synthetic type stocks for me

 

[Kiowa Cowboy]

I believe it is a fiberglass composite around an aluminum frame. It is not plastic. I really like the feel of it. I recently put a Bell and Carlson stock on a Sako A7 25.06. I love the stock. I used Marine Tex to skim bedded the lug area and the tang. The bedding under the lug migrated toward the muzzle more than I prefer. I simply sanded it down. Next time I will probably use tape in front of the lug so that I can simply lift the tape and remove the marine Tex from that area. The gun was already accurate. It does not seem to be any more or less accurate. About the same. I only use factory ammo. I am getting ready to start reloading.

 

[hemiford]

Oh I see what you mean. Plus rough up the surface with 60 grit.

 

[hemiford]

I believe it is a fiberglass composite around an aluminum frame. It is not plastic. I really like the feel of it. I recently put a Bell and Carlson stock on a Sako A7 25.06. I love the stock. I used Marine Tex to skim bedded the lug area and the tang. The bedding under the lug migrated toward the muzzle more than I prefer. I simply sanded it down. Next time I will probably use tape in front of the lug so that I can simply lift the tape and remove the marine Tex from that area. The gun was already accurate. It does not seem to be any more or less accurate. About the same. I only use factory ammo. I am getting ready to start reloading.

I have a couple of B&C M40 Remington stocks and I really like them. The Weatherby stock
is simply too skinny up at the front, a lot of Weatherby stocks are that way (IMO).

 

[comfisherman]

Based off of messing with a few over the years, I'd guess it's a proprietary mix of resin and fillers to get the stock material. Guessing by the air voids often found in them (have cut a few over the years to modify and always surprises me the amount of random bubbles in the material) its poured into molds.

While not cheap I've only used epoxy to modify them, mainly filling pockets and revealing cut out sections. Mainly because I've no idea the composition and epoxy sticks to darn near everything. I've skelatonized, and made takedown versions out of 3 and refinished 2x. There isn't or wasn't any fibrous reinforcement like a true glass stock. It's more like a high density foam that boat transom are made out of. Clearly it works but it's not as straightforward as bonding glass to glass.

 

[Darryle]

Sand it down to the substrate, base material, buy some West System epoxy and some dry woven carbon fiber material. Work slow and use the minimum amount of epoxy to wet out the carbon fiber, you can "sandwich" between parchment paper to work out the excess adhesive, then layer the carbon on in the areas you want. Use the weave as guide to criss-cross the pattern to make it stronger. In order to put pressure on the plies, you can cover them with saran wrap or parchment paper and wrap with electrical tape stretched tight.

PM me and I will give you my number and I will walk you through this. I work with carbon fiber, fiberglass and metal composites every day.

I make my adjustable cheek pieces out of carbon fiber laid up directly on the stock so that the contour is perfect.

 

[MagnumManiac]

I have the same Accumark in 257 Weatherby, B&C stocks are composite with fibreglass 'skin' I really like their sporter stock profile. As mentioned above, you might be better off buying another stock, however, if you want to do this yourself you can.
You will have to sand the finish off where you want to add cloth, then proceed to wrap WOVEN CLOTH FIBREGLASS to the desired thickness then add your epoxy. The best way to see how this is done is to watch surfboards being made, as the process is the same. Just remember to work within the time limits of the epoxy, or you will have problems.
(Do not use chopped strand fibreglass and polyester resin)

Cheers.

 

[hemiford]

It sure seems like solid resin, it doesn't look like any fiberglass, but I haven't cut into it yet.

 

[Darryle]

You can use microspheres to take up space and not add copious amounts of weight. Balsa wood is another option to keep the weight down, once you have the shape you want you can warm the wood up and coat it with epoxy resin and it will draw it in as it cools. Once you have the shape you want, you can cover it with a couple of plies of fiberglass or carbon fiber cloth/weave.

Microspheres