squareing a mauser

bamadawg2009

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So I took my new project mauser action to a new gunsmith in town and asked him what he would charge to true the action, lap the lugs, and square the bolt face. He quoted me $40 now Ive heard what most smiths charge to do the same thing to 700 actions and charge so much more. My question is why the price difference is the mauser easier to do or is $40 just an OUTSTANDING price?
 
So I took my new project mauser action to a new gunsmith in town and asked him what he would charge to true the action, lap the lugs, and square the bolt face. He quoted me $40 now Ive heard what most smiths charge to do the same thing to 700 actions and charge so much more. My question is why the price difference is the mauser easier to do or is $40 just an OUTSTANDING price?
Ya' pay for what ya' get! Ever heard that saying before? #1 If this is a used, military '98, the lugs are probably already seated. The hardening process used on Mausers is known as "case hardening". This means after hardening, there is an outside layer that is harder than the core material. the core is no harder than it was before hardening. Lapping lugs is an invitation to working (lapping) thru that hard layer as that layer varies widely in thickness from just a couple of thousands to maybe .012 or so. Remember, these weren't made using modern technology! The only way to varify that hard "case" thickness is by destructive testing. #2 See #1. There have been literally tens of thousands or Mauser '98 bolt faces opened to magnum dimentions. By doing so or by "truing" the bolt face one runs the risk of cutting thru the case hardness. Some get away with it,, some don't. Prudence and the liability of cutting thru the hard layer have put this in the realm of the hobbiest, I know I won't do it for a customer anymore as most other 'smiths won't either because of the liability. Modern actions are just too available. #3 The most that should be done is to skim cut the face of the receiver where the barrel shoulders up to provide even tension when the barrel is torqued. There are probably many who will disagree. That's fine. I choose to stay on the safe side of any modification or build. The Mauser '98, made by any of the known makers such as DWM, Mauser Oberndorf, Steyr, FN or CZ make fine sporters and when properly barreled and stocked will out shoot their owners. Did this "new" gunsmith get any kind or formal education? I've had customers come into my shop claiming "there's nothing as strong as a Mauser". It may be the "grandaddy" of all bolt actions, but it was made of low carbon steel and case hardened unlike modern bolt actions that are made of alloy steel and when hardened and quenched are hard all the way thru. 2 paragraphs, just my 2 cents.
 
Sure, as long as locking lug abutments and the bolt surfaces aren't compromised. Your next problem is making it feed. You have lots of tedious feed rail work ahead of you. As for the model '48, in general,,,, I'd much prefer a model 24/47 as I think there's more "craftsmanship" in their manufacture (and no stamped parts).
 
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