Should I bed the action my Weatherby Terramark? (Pics included).

BLC3128

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After a day on the range I decided to give my rifle a thorough cleaning which included taking the barreled action out of the stock and wiping out any oil/debris that may have worked its way down into the stock. Upon removing the barreled action I noticed that there was clear evidence of friction between the back of the action and the bedding block (the cerakote had scuff marks in it. Since I purchased the rifle I have not removed the barreled action. I did however send the rifle to have an Accubrake installed by a Weatherby Approved Gunsmith (this was around 200 rounds into the life of the gun). Now, the rifle has around 700 rounds down the tube with plenty of life left. Also, please note, I did notice that the recoil lug had bedding material in it, but the amount of bedding material was marginal at best.

IMG_0496.jpg


What do you suggest I do? I never performed a bedding job before, but I am open to doing so.

Thank you in advance for your input.
 
I've done a lot of Weatherby bedding jobs, though others here have done more.

What does it look like at the front recoil lug? Did you verify the torque on the action screws previously?

I check the torque settings before, during and after each range trip. It is always spot on. I will take a picture of the the bedding in front of the recoil lug tonight.

Thanks.
 
I check the torque settings before, during and after each range trip. It is always spot on. I will take a picture of the the bedding in front of the recoil lug tonight.

Thanks.
If it looks like any of the rest of the ones I've seen, it's a blob of clear-ish cream-colored glue.
 
Here are 2 pictures of the recoil lug (Front and Back).
IMG_0508.jpg

IMG_0509.jpg


I took several pictures of the bedding block and surrounding area.

IMG_0512.PNG


IMG_0511.PNG



IMG_0510.PNG


IMG_0512.PNG


I understand there are many sources of info on youtube but, if anyone on here wouldn't mind sharing their experience/ knowledge/procedures of bedding an Accumark, I would highly appreciate their input! I truly enjoy learning from many of the members on this forum and their vast knowledge!

Looking forward to everyone's input.

Thanks,

Brandon
 
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Looks like it's mostly rubbing at the rear screw. You can see it on the stock where it there are shiny streaks around the hole. The front one and the recoil lug look good.

I have given descriptions more than once on how to do it. If you're bored you can look through my old postings. It's too late for me to search any more tonight. :D
 
Looks like it's mostly rubbing at the rear screw. You can see it on the stock where it there are shiny streaks around the hole. The front one and the recoil lug look good.

I have given descriptions more than once on how to do it. If you're bored you can look through my old postings. It's too late for me to search any more tonight. :D

Thank you for your response. You are suggesting to spot bed just the rear where the friction is?
 
No, I bed the whole action. I just noticed that the only place you're getting friction appears to be the rear.

Ok, what bedding material do you suggest? I have used jb weld to bed my scope rail before, but I'm not sure if that is up to the task. I'd like to use the best material possible. Thank you.
 
Bedding info here:
https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/bedding-suggestions.81374/#post-573903

And here:
https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/mountain-rifle-for-under-1000.197380/page-2#post-1393287

I strongly suggest reading those, as well as the links I put in those threads.

I have settled on two materials.
the first is Devcon 10110
The other is Pro-Bed 2000 from Score High Gunsmithing
https://scorehi.com/our-products/

Both work well. Devcon is dark gray, Pro-Bed 2000 is black or brown. I will now often choose based on the color of the rifle I am working on, as I am comfortable with both brands. Pro-Bed 2000 is a bit easier to use only because you mix the two parts in a 1:1 ratio, and it seems to have a slower hardening time, giving you a bit more flexibility.

The Pro-Bed 2000 is less expensive to buy from them on eBay as they charge less there for shipping. Why, I'm not sure. It comes in various sized containers so you can buy a small one if just doing one rifle. Devcon is available by Google search, often for about $35, but search for discounts.

I do not use JB Weld at all.

Let me know what other questions you have.
 
If it shoots don't do anything
This seems like the most sage advice. If the gun SHOOTS well, you are good. Leave it be. Does it look like there was 'rubbing' at the rear action screw at one time? Yes. But when did it happen? One time, at band camp? (joke) Seriously, it could have rubbed like that from insertion and removal of the action several times and have NOTHING to do with a 'bedding' issue or a 'movement under fire' problem.

I don't like doing "work" for no reason. The purpose of the rifle is to deliver copper/lead units into a precise, small area at distance. Does it do that? Then don't mess with a good thing.
 
This seems like the most sage advice. If the gun SHOOTS well, you are good. Leave it be. Does it look like there was 'rubbing' at the rear action screw at one time? Yes. But when did it happen? One time, at band camp? (joke) Seriously, it could have rubbed like that from insertion and removal of the action several times and have NOTHING to do with a 'bedding' issue or a 'movement under fire' problem.

I don't like doing "work" for no reason. The purpose of the rifle is to deliver copper/lead units into a precise, small area at distance. Does it do that? Then don't mess with a good thing.

The gun has around 700 rounds through the tube with very minimal throat erosion, if any. I have never fired more than 2 shots in rapid succession, never more than 3 in 5 minutes. I usually let it cool about 2-3 minutes between shots. Anyways, it began to develop a cold bore flyer and string groups horizontally.
 
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