short mag case in long action rifle?

[chainsaw]

I have a Ruger tang safety m77 long action that I want to rebarrel.I was thinking of getting it chambered for 300 short mag.Do you think I will have feeding issues with the short case in a long action?Also,will I need a new bolt?the rifle used to be a 7mm mag.
Thanks.

 

[winmag]

I had mine built on an old Model-70 Winchester long action. It started life as a 30-06.

Things that'll need done;
1: open up the bolt face
2: hone/grind feed ramp angle
3: new bottom metal that'll accommodate a 0 taper .404 parent case.
4: bolt stop moved.
What you'll gain by building your WSM on a long action makes up for the extra weight (a few ounces) of the long action in leaps & bounds!! It makes the WSM case come alive!
You can take advantage of most any bullet made, & load to the lands without compromising case capacity.
I had mine throated for 200 gr Accubonds but it shoots 180 Accubonds into .25 moa 100 yd groups, at roughly 3100 fps with a #4 taper, fluted 26" Hart 10 twist with a mini Muscle Brake. I just haven't had the heart to try the 200's based on the amazing performance of the 180's.

Bought back my ol Model-70 Win, 300Wby from my buddy when news broke about Noslers new Long Range Accubond line for launching the 210's. I'll get it re-piped to a 28" pipe, & another Muscle Brake, so I'm pretty certain ill stick with the 180's for my WSM build. However I'd expect somewhere around 2900+ fps with the 200's out of my WSM if I were to give em a whirl.

Like I said building a WSM on a long action REALLY brings that WSM to life!

 

[chainsaw]

Thanks Winmag,good info there.What did the barrel run you,if you don`t mind me asking?

 

[winmag]

Google Hart barrels, & they have current pricing, for length, taper, fluting (if any, & what style) etc etc.

Every smith is different but the one I had do my WSM build sent me a bill for $665 for a 30 cal Fluted #4 Hart 10 twist, a Centershot Rifles Mini Muzzle Brake, & sending my bolt out to get fluted in Idaho.
I'm sure his profit margine was small, but shipping to & from, & insurance etc was included.
He made his living as a gunsmith, so labor was his only real profit to be counted. I'm sure it was competitive as well. But any "mark up" on parts was minimal (single digits percentage wise).
Chambering & throating, crowning/muzzle brake, threading, squaring action & bolt, stock work & bottom metal etc. cost the $. Not so in much parts.
My best guess would be in the neighborhood of $3-350ish for my barrel, the way I wanted it.

Just noticed your an Oregon boy. Nice! Feel free to fling me a P.M. or a phone call Fri-Sun. I don't currently check in on LRH Mon-Thurs. too busy.

 

[chainsaw]

Thats not bad at all.thanks again!