Shallow action threads?

[RyanTrials]

While attempting to headspace my new remage barrel to my m700 action, seems to be that the barrel is coming to a halt in the action threads before even getting to my go/nogo gauges.... Anyone ever run into this? What to do from here ... Hmmm. Doing a bit of looking around, can't find any info on this issue. I have read a ton and watched dozens of videos on savage/remage installs which all seem to go without any hiccups. Maybe have a gunsmith clean/chase the threads? As long as they don't get oversized...

M700 magnum long action w/ proper bolt face
7mm rem mag remage criterion barrel
PTG go & nogo headspace gauges (belted mag)
Ejector and firing pin assembly has been removed from bolt
Also making sure the go gauges are flat against bolt face (not on extractor)

 

[J E Custom]

While attempting to headspace my new remage barrel to my m700 action, seems to be that the barrel is coming to a halt in the action threads before even getting to my go/nogo gauges.... Anyone ever run into this? What to do from here ... Hmmm. Doing a bit of looking around, can't find any info on this issue. I have read a ton and watched dozens of videos on savage/remage installs which all seem to go without any hiccups. Maybe have a gunsmith clean/chase the threads? As long as they don't get oversized...

M700 magnum long action w/ proper bolt face
7mm rem mag remage criterion barrel
PTG go & nogo headspace gauges (belted mag)
Ejector and firing pin assembly has been removed from bolt
Also making sure the go gauges are flat against bolt face (not on extractor)

The Remington 700 needs a recessed barrel tenon for the bolt to go in before it will even come close
to the bolt face.

Have a gunsmith look at what you have. The Remington 700 is assembled totally different than A Savage.

J E CUSTOM

 

[RyanTrials]

This has nothing to do with a savage, other than the concept of the barrel nut. This barrel is specifically cut for Remington m700 actions (1-1/16x16 threads) hence the name Remage. The barrel tenon is cut properly.

Maybe remington used to cut the action threads
Short so the last few barrel threads grab into the receiver when factory torqued to headspace?

I hope you understand what I'm saying haha

 

[shortgrass]

This has nothing to do with a savage, other than the concept of the barrel nut. This barrel is specifically cut for Remington m700 actions (1-1/16x16 threads) hence the name Remage. The barrel tenon is cut properly.

Maybe remington used to cut the action threads
Short so the last few barrel threads grab into the receiver when factory torqued to headspace?

I hope you understand what I'm saying haha

Doesn't sound to me like the barrel tenon is properly cut. Maybe watch some more videos.....

 

[orwapitihunter]

Clean the threads real good with Brakleen and a toothbrush.
Lube with a couple drops of oil.
Screw the barrel in.
Look thru the gas vent hole in the side of the action.
The barrel will need to get pretty close to the edge of the hole.
If you aren't you may need to chase the threads or use a little lapping compound.
And if this is stainless on stainless make sure you keep it lubed so I doesn't gall.

 

[.257rwr]

Recoil lug???

 

[RyanTrials]

Clean the threads real good with Brakleen and a toothbrush.
Lube with a couple drops of oil.
Screw the barrel in.
Look thru the gas vent hole in the side of the action.
The barrel will need to get pretty close to the edge of the hole.
If you aren't you may need to chase the threads or use a little lapping compound.
And if this is stainless on stainless make sure you keep it lubed so I doesn't gall.

I appreciate it! I know it's not the barrel or the bolt... I JUST measured out everything as far as the bolt nose recess and all of that. It's simply the barrel isn't able to thread far enough into the action to headspace off the gauge.... I was just curious if anyone else had run into this before?

I did clean the threads really good with some degreaser and a toothbrush type brush. Looked through the action screw hole and I can tell the last few threads in the action near the gas vent hole are barely cut that deep in comparison to the rest of the threads... The barrel must be bottoming out before the last action threads, due to the diameter difference in barrel threads and those on the last few of the action. Makes sense in a typical remington barrel install when a conventional barrel with a shoulder tightens to the action and probably torqued to hell at the factory.. But this is a barrel nut, i want to be able to hand tighten it up to the go gauge and feel it contact, THEN torque down the barrel nut. Nothing a gunsmith can't fix.

thanks for any help! Waiting for Jim Briggs to call me back and see what his advice is, if anyone has run into this before, it would be him.

Ryan

 

[bapayton]

I worked on an XP100 a year or so ago that had some taper in the last couple of threads. I turned the OD down just a few thousandths on the last three threads and it screwed on just fine. Ideally I would have trued the receiver but I wasn't comfortable internal threading at the time.

BP

 

[shortgrass]

A barrel should be 'fit' to an action, not the other way around. Sounds to me like it's an 'older' 700 action that was threaded during manufacture with a tap, not single point threaded on a CNC turning/machining center, as they are now. In this case, alter the barrel, not the receiver. Chit happens, "drop-in" ain't always "drop-in"! If you try to alter the receiver I can just about guarantee you'll end up with sloppier threads than you have now, unless you buy a 1 1/16" 'bottoming' tap and then all bets are off!

 

[J E Custom]

This has nothing to do with a savage, other than the concept of the barrel nut. This barrel is specifically cut for Remington m700 actions (1-1/16x16 threads) hence the name Remage. The barrel tenon is cut properly.

Maybe remington used to cut the action threads
Short so the last few barrel threads grab into the receiver when factory torqued to headspace?

I hope you understand what I'm saying haha

This is not intended to sound harsh so don't take it that way.

In your first post you made reference to the way a Savage was assembled. all brands have different ways of assembly and have to be treated differently. they cannot be compared to each other because of this difference.

You may get a 100 different opinions on what the problem may be but in truth, there may or may not be a problem at all. With all of the do it your selves gun smithing going on everyone needs to realize that there are times that a qualified and experienced gun smith is invaluable in final assemble of a firearm.

A competent Gunsmith can look at something and quickly determine the problem and/or the solution. So please take it to a good gunsmith and don't assume anything. If it is not correct , he can fix or recommend what to do. It is almost impossible to trouble shoot something like this without looking first hand at it.

I see issues all the time with "Pre-fit" or "pre-chambered" barrels and don't recommend the use of ether. They are normally not cheaper in the long run, and if they have problems they can not only be dangerous , they can be very costly in time and money.

Again. this is not a criticism, just a recommendation.

J E CUSTOM

 

[Edd]

It seems the answer to your question is, "no, no one has seen this".

I think finding a Gunsmith that can fix the threads in the action without making them bigger is the correct strategy.

 

[shortgrass]

It seems the answer to your question is, "no, no one has seen this".

I think finding a Gunsmith that can fix the threads in the action without making them bigger is the correct strategy.

Edd, it would be much cheaper to alter the barrel. Adding a 45* chamfer may be all that's needed. Hard to say,, no pics, nothing in hand, without either of those it's just a guessing game. I use that 45* chamfer ( about .080" wide) on most Remington custom barrel installations when setting the barrel/bolt up for minimum clearances.

 

[RyanTrials]

Thank you Edd, that was my plan, HOWEVER, I was bored and thought I'd test fit it again with some shooters choice grease... Ended up being able to tighten it a tad bit more with a bit of force just with my hands and it contacted the go gauge!!! The nogo gauge doesn't allow the bolt to close and it will close on the go gauge without resistance!!!

Now I'll be taking my action and pinned lug to my gunsmith to have a recess drilled into the action. Jim at NSS suggested having the recess 1 thou wider and 4 thou deeper than the lug pin. Sometime down the road I'll probably have the rest of the action trued if i think it will help accuracy, as well as the threads tapped with the standard 1-1/16x16 tap so prefits will work, but hopefully that will take out that small taper at the end of the action threads, allowing an easier headspace job.


I appreciate all the advice from everyone, but understand this is not a standard conventional rebarreling. I am not going to alter the barrel. Barrels are disposable after being shot out and need to be replaced. Id rather alter the action threads minorly, than have to alter each and every barrel I order and put on this action in the future!!

Ryan

 

[Edd]

What happens to the end of the barrel when you tighten it? Does it shift one direction to force itself off center? Bottoming it out in the threads doesn't sound like a good idea to me. I would want it to go into the correct position free and easy. If it is that close and the barrel is cut square, you might consider the chamfer that Shortgrass mentioned.