Scope Upgrade

[Sweetroels]

I am an old fart with declining vision and need to upgrade glass and capability from current low end good names scopes with duplex reticles to something better



After looking through many different brands of scopes I've decided to purchase a Swarovski Z5 for my 30-06 Tika. Then move the VX3 off the 30-06 to my 70-8 Tika for a decent NC deer rifle with shots no longer than 300yds.



The question is do I get Z5 BT, P and/or I versions? I want the 30-06 to be my backup versatility gun and shoot NC deer/pigs/bear 100-300yards then out to 450ish yards for elk and other big game when I go out west. My 300 RUM Christensen Traverse will be my go to for long range big game which I am upgrading to a high-end FFP scope like NF or Leupold 5HD.



I am a newbie moving from standard duplex scopes, I am still confused and never clicked before and don't know if clicking takes too much time on quick shots? From what I can tell the Z5 BT version you can click and the P is suited for the BRX reticle? Looking at the 5-25x52, I can get illuminated with either the BT or P. I would prefer the 3.5-18 of the Z3 but can only get in a 44, prefer the 52.


If you are limited to Swaro Z5 what would you get? Thanks for any help

 

[std7mag]

Do you have experience with FFP scopes?
I bought a Crimson Trace Series Two scope (FFP) with the intent of using it for hunting.
After trying it, it's now a scope for the range.

From a hunting perspective, 5 power on the low end is too high.
You'd be better served with a 3-4 power on the low end.

Illumination adds weight.
Not only weight that your carrying, but can throw the balance of how your rifle handles.

 

[Sweetroels]

I do not have experience with FFP scopes. Many folks here recommend NF scopes but a majority are SFP, I thought FFP was better for long range? i understand the difference but don't know how that applies out in the field. I pretty much decided to get NF for my 300 RUM but what model and reticle is best for hunting? I would like to keep the reticle simple with the best glass that NF offers.



Still confused on what to get for my 30-06. Doing more research on this site maybe Trijicon, seems to have good reviews here. I don't think clicking would be good for the shots in NC, quick acquisition and shots usually less than 300 yards

 

[akdad]

Maybe consider picking up a cheaper optic like arken/athlon or something to get used to options and figure out more what may work for you? FFP is a change as is dialing.

 

[Rick Richard]

I do not have experience with FFP scopes. Many folks here recommend NF scopes but a majority are SFP, I thought FFP was better for long range? i understand the difference but don't know how that applies out in the field. I pretty much decided to get NF for my 300 RUM but what model and reticle is best for hunting? I would like to keep the reticle simple with the best glass that NF offers.



Still confused on what to get for my 30-06. Doing more research on this site maybe Trijicon, seems to have good reviews here. I don't think clicking would be good for the shots in NC, quick acquisition and shots usually less than 300 yards

If you're not really shooting long range and you're not going to twist turrets, then go with the brand that has the best glass for you. You might want to look at Zeiss and Swaro for example in a 3-15 or 3-18 power range in SFP. My opinion anyway.

 

[Critter Picker]

For shots less than 300 yards, if you zero at 200,you will only be 6 to 7 inches low at 300.

For hunting I prefer SFP scopes. This is probably just me,but when you zoom down the crosshairs dissappear on FFP scopes unless they are illuminated. JMHO.

 

[Reelamin]

I am an old fart with declining vision and need to upgrade glass and capability from current low end good names scopes with duplex reticles to something better



After looking through many different brands of scopes I've decided to purchase a Swarovski Z5 for my 30-06 Tika. Then move the VX3 off the 30-06 to my 70-8 Tika for a decent NC deer rifle with shots no longer than 300yds.



The question is do I get Z5 BT, P and/or I versions? I want the 30-06 to be my backup versatility gun and shoot NC deer/pigs/bear 100-300yards then out to 450ish yards for elk and other big game when I go out west. My 300 RUM Christensen Traverse will be my go to for long range big game which I am upgrading to a high-end FFP scope like NF or Leupold 5HD.



I am a newbie moving from standard duplex scopes, I am still confused and never clicked before and don't know if clicking takes too much time on quick shots? From what I can tell the Z5 BT version you can click and the P is suited for the BRX reticle? Looking at the 5-25x52, I can get illuminated with either the BT or P. I would prefer the 3.5-18 of the Z3 but can only get in a 44, prefer the 52.


If you are limited to Swaro Z5 what would you get? Thanks for any help

Skip FFP unles you actually go try one in the hunting scenario you will have. So so many people read the internet then talk about how FFP and a sucksmoore are the end all do all. I pull out a FFP set it at the power they carry their rifle in while hunting.....to date not one (yes even 18 yoa eyes) prefers the FFP. I would suggest try a simple hold over style simple reticle, and you dont have to dial a dang thing. TMOA from Leupold will put you well past 600 yards with no dang clicking....just point and shoot.

 

[Philward]

You could try a Sig BDX setup, scope/rangefinder combo.

 

[SteveBurton]

In my experience, you would be better served with a 3-18 scope in SFP. You state that 450 yards would be your limit. 18x is more than adequate for that range and the lower 3x would be better for shots under 100 yards. I don't know how much walking you would do but a 5x min scope is a bear to pull up and get a site picture quickly under 100 yards.
My rifles for out West wear 5-25x while my PA rifles wear 3-18x scopes. All of my hunting scopes are SFP because I keep them at the lowest magnification unless I have time for a longer shot. My FFP scopes are on my long range target and PRS rifles where judging hits for the next shot is critical.
Just my preference, YMMV.

 

[JustMe2]

Here's your options:

1) SFP
a) is cheaper,
b) Reticle thickness doesn't change while zooming
c) Christmas tree reticle holdovers are not accurate during zooming except at 1 magnification.
d) If you dial and not use holdover, accurate tree reticle doesn't matter
e) zero at 3" high at 100 yds. Gives your 3006 3" high at 100, 200, 300yds and 16" low at 400 and 25" low at 450 yds. Then start dialing.

2) FFP:
a) usually more expensive
b) reticle thinner at low magnification and gets thicker while zooming (illumination solves thinness at low magnification)
c) tree reticle has accurate holdovers at all zoom magnifications
d) tree reticle holdover is faster than dialing for range (use a precalculated range card in your flip up scope cap.)

Scope magnification depends on your hunting environment.
a) Stalking and jumping deer at 25- 50 yards requires low magnification.
b) Sitting in a stand, magnification is not critical
c) long range mountain shooting, more magnification is required.

So, you decide what fits you the best. We can't tell you what to use since we don't hunt in your shoes.

 

[akdad]

Scopes are an odd thing. I used to say I liked low power ones. Last few years I've noticed I like more and more power. I've also moved from larger calibers and brushy country to open country and smaller calibers. Get whatever you think will float your boat but if your anything like myself you will always be wanting to try something new we have so many options it's hard to decide and that's a great problem!!!!

 

[quandary]

I have a Z5 3.5 to 18 44mm with BT turrets on my 300WM. Load the Swarovski ballistics app on your phone. Set the scope up for your load, very straight forward. Once you get the BT turret set for a load the dialing couldn't be simpler. Great glass, very light.

 

[chav0_12]

You could try a Sig BDX setup, scope/rangefinder combo.

He said he wants good glass though.

I don't think compromising for a higher magnification because you want a larger objective is a good idea. The lower bottom end magnification is probably going to serve you better, it sounds like. FFP can be tricky and is way more beneficial at longer ranges, but it's also not necessary, the one thing I like about it the most is spotting misses and determining correction values with the reticle. I'm pressure sure Zeiss makes some scopes that are more in the 2-3 power at the low end with large objectives. edit to add: So does Swarovski but you'd have to jump up into the next level of scope, which comes with a decent price increase.

Me personally, I'd get the BT model of the Z5, but I don't mind dialing and have other tools at my disposal that help me with that. I'd also probably be getting the 44mm version because the Z5 I'd get would be going on an ultralight type of rifle for western mountain hunting.

 

[Kmccord]

Where FFP outshines SFP is when long range shooting and hunting, in FFP when using the reticule for holdover or windage you do not have to be at max power you can be at any of the power ranges. In SFP, you have to remember when lining up on an Elk or whatever at long ranges and using your hashmarks for wind and elevation you will need to be set at the power range the manufacturer states for using, usually that is full power. Also, if for some reason your rangefinder dies in the field you can use the scope to get yardage, but in SFP you have to be on the power the manufacturer states to use.