Scope Rings with Integrated Level

Xtreme Hardcore makes some too. I have one of each. Like the ring setup best.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20230216-102521_DuckDuckGo.jpg
    Screenshot_20230216-102521_DuckDuckGo.jpg
    39.5 KB · Views: 56
  • Screenshot_20230216-102241_DuckDuckGo.jpg
    Screenshot_20230216-102241_DuckDuckGo.jpg
    12.9 KB · Views: 56
Masterpiece Arms

https://masterpiecearms.com/shop/mpa-ba-rings/

IMG_5942.jpg


XLR chassis builders makes the Element 4.0 Aluminum chassis with a built in level:

ELEMENT-4.0-CHASSIS-FOLDERTOP-003-900x600_1024x1024.jpg

View attachment 439265
It would be better on the lower ring for ring mounted…for the XLR chassis, can you see it while in shooting position? Someone else had one mounted in their stock…maybe 5 years ago. He had a patent on it, and there were lawsuits involved concerning the infringement where they even went after the customers. I don't know what ever happened about the lawsuits. the way the law used to be, was you could build an exact replica of the patented device and use it while the patent was pending, but the day the patent was granted, you could no longer use the device, and if caught, you were liable for treble damages. There are ways to get around a patent, however. Matt Means of XLR is a pretty sharp guy, so if you were going to get an XLR chassis, I'm sure he could answer your questions. The last thing I would want to happen is for one of you to have your door kicked down in the middle of the night by the patent police…and get hauled off to prison.
I have an XLR chassis, and it is my favorite. Price was reasonable and when I do my next build, I'll probably get another.
My favorite level Is made by Long Range Arms, and clamps to the rail. It's perfectly visible while in shooting position, and also, in addition to the bubble, has 5 LEDs. A green in the center, and you are good to go. The sensitivity of the lighting system is adjustable. I think they make a left hand version. The downside is that you need a rail to mount it, a place on the rail and space between your scope and the rail to accommodate the mount. If you have a low mount it won't fit. If anyone is interested, let me know, and I'll send you a picture of it on my rifle.
 
My 2 cents. The Masterpiecs Arms are very nice.
Don't use a bubble imbedded in a chassis. They are not quality and it's more the scope that matters.
Don't use a small bubble imbedded in the scope rings. Same problem, they are not quality and it's the scope that matters the most. They can also be very hard to see when you only have time for a quick glance.
The Masterpiece is nice bc they make excellent rings to begin with and it's a large bubble which can easily be seen. Front ring or back ring is a matter of personal preference. If in the back it is easy to see but blocks the side turret nob. I'd for sure go, if right eye dominant, bubble on the left. I have several guns with it on the front ring. I can still see it and it does not block any turret nobs.
I would suggest an individual bubble. Vortex make a nice one and David Tubb makes a nice, ultralight one. Holland also makes a nice one. It's really not that hard to set them. Set up a plumb line. Position rifle pointing at plumb line where it won't twist. Level it across scope rail. Attach bottom rings and place scope in rings. The important part at this point is that the scope be parallel to gravity. Look through the scope at the plumb line and turn the scope until the verticle reticle is lined up with the plumb line. Install the top rings. Now install the bubble to where it shows level. Done.
 
I use the Flatline Ops Sniper X on my 300 NMI with an NX8. It's a tube mounted level but it installs very easily, is stowable and has independent level adjustments for stowed and extended positions. The bubble is large and the fluid is very bright and visible.


View attachment 439269View attachment 439270
I have one of these and I am very unimpressed. The part where you find adjust it does not stay put and basically it's useless to me.
 
A level on a scope, I have heard about them, I haven't used one. I am shooting a 338LM, not a 375 or larger.
I sight in, have the vertical fibre passing up and down on aim point. It moves as my heart beats, up and down a couple to six inches above and below my aim point.
Set, pause, at high or low on heartbeat, and squeeze past the breaking point.
Always both eyes open.

I use a level ± 0.0001/deviation to level my rifles, then to level the scope using the same level. It takes me a few hours of the day as when I tighten the ring's clamp, the scope rotates a small amount. Loktite blue to hold in place.

I taught my son to do the same. His diagonal misses, greater as the distance being at shot increased went away.

The level I obtained when I used to set large precision machines. It was low cost, $75.00 as I recall, it is too precise, the "real" price would have discouraged me.
I use an ARISAKA tool. An angled piece rests on your rail, and a triangular piece cut to the same angle as a channel in the angled piece slides along between the flat on the bottom of your scope makes contact, and then it is parallel to your rail. It comes with two angled pieces to cover a wide range of heights. I'm having trouble attaching pictures, but I think there are u tube videos on this. I then draw a plumb line on a target , maybe 5' high to verify. Have better luck with this than a level. Careful when tightening your ring screws so that you don't bend your scope…if it's too loose with the wedge too tightly placed, it will happen.
 
Last edited:
Well I will jump in and give my two cents !

So far i have put the scope clamp on style on all my Rifles ..i dont like the level in the top of the ring. I might try the Hawkins off set level just for testing .
I have no use for the level built in the scope rail ..I just cant see myself looking under my scope all the time . Nope not for me .
As far as Rings go ..yes I have Rifles with two sets of rings . Yes I did have Scopes slip in Nightforce lights . I was shocked to say the least.
Here is a few of my Rifle /Scope set ups ..

Rum Man
 

Attachments

  • 20200112_164248.jpg
    20200112_164248.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 46
I use an Ariska tool. An angled piece rests on your rail, and a triangular piece cut to the same angle as a channel in the angled piece slides along between the flat on the bottom of your scope makes contact, and then it is parallel to your rail. It comes with two angled pieces to cover a wide range of heights. I'm having trouble attaching pictures, but I think there are u tube videos on this. I then draw a plumb line on a target , maybe 5' high to verify. Have better luck with this than a level. Careful when tightening your ring screws so that you don't bend your scope…if it's too loose with the wedge too tightly placed, it will happen.
These wedges are quick and easy to use. Sometimes you have to have multiple wedges due to scope height. You are relying on the fact that the scope rail is level to level the scope. The true test is the plumb line and then run a tall target test to verify that the scope is working properly.
 
I have ordered a spuhr mount and am planning on adding this level. It's not integrated into the ring but rather an accessory that bolts to the mount where you want it )front or back). Took me a long time to come up with this plan and I hope it works.
1676591890797.png
 
Spuhr makes great mounts. Just understand that assuming when you bolt this on, it will mean that the gun is level, hopefully. It does not mean that the scope is level. You will still have to level the scope using a plumb line.
 
The only problem I see with that style of ring/level is if the ring cap is not torqued down evenly (gap the same on both sides) then the level could be 2 or 3 (or more) degrees from level.

The level on the bottom ring would be better.
The Easy Button solution there is to use feeler gauges to set the gap evenly. Time consuming perhaps, but easy enough to do.

Never used a level on a rifle, so in my ignorance a rail mounted level makes the most sense to me. Something like this: Amazon product ASIN B004VI2PPA (Obviously the scope needs to be leveled to the action, and that's a whole discussion all by itself, with many ways to get the same result).
Help me out of that ignorance, why aren't those being discussed here?

As for the scopes slipping in quality rings, maybe they need to be lapped? Yes, I did open that can of worms. OR better yet, bed the scope in them.
 
Spuhr makes great mounts. Just understand that assuming when you bolt this on, it will mean that the gun is level, hopefully. It does not mean that the scope is level. You will still have to level the scope using a plumb line.
Yes, I follow this method -

Wheeler Engineering Level Level Level Scope Mounting Leveling Tool

and follow up with a plumb line. so once this is done and the level is on the scope mount, everything is level and you can view it while you have your head in position to shoot.
Wheeler Engineering Level Level Level Scope Mounting Leveling Tool[/H1]
 
Top