Savage bedding question

Discussion in 'Gunsmithing' started by merdit, Dec 25, 2010.

  1. merdit

    merdit New Member

    Oct 22, 2010
    I've been reading some articles on bedding. Thought I would make my first attempt on my Savage model 10 in .243. I took it apart and the magazine stays with the stock. There is also a metal flange between the stock and action at the rear action screw. Haven't seen anything on how to deal with or not to mess with this style of stock. Maybe I should just bed the recoil lug and around the front screw? Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks
  2. bigngreen

    bigngreen Well-Known Member

    Nov 24, 2008
    I cut the tab off and then remove the box after that with a needle nose plier. I've bedded right over the top of it then carefully cut out the material over it but that leaves the bedding so thin on the RH side that it chips very easy, after a couple times of that I cut of the tang on the bracket and all is well. If the lower part of the tang doesn't fell like it will hold the box you just bend the spur out till you have to push the box in place. Make sure that the tang is free floated what ever you do on a Savage.
  3. Matt27

    Matt27 Well-Known Member

    Sep 3, 2002
    If bedded right (stress free) bedding the tang will not matter.

    I have bedded both of my savages with the tang and shoot lights out.
    My 260, it shot close to moa at 200. Bedded it and with the same load it now shoots 5/8"-3/4" at 200.

    Just bedded my 7wsm and got a chance to test some loads with it at 130 yards( horses are still in my usual spot). I have 4 loads across a 1 grain spread that have 1/4" vertical and less than an inch horizontal. The horizontal is more me and some wind. Wind was blowing 20mph. Plus i have a cheapo millet on it now till my viper comes in.

    If you bed the tang and find a good load then turns to crap you can always take the bedding out from under the tang to see if it helps.