Savage 116 stainless barrel contour

Wachsmann

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Feb 1, 2008
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Meridain, Idaho
I had this rifle fo some time now and been thinking about rebarrelling the rifle. Everything I can tell the barrel is between a heavy sporter and a light varmint. It is a straight taper though. It's a fluted 24 inch 6.5X284Norma. Could the taper be off slightly when compared to what the barrel manufacturers list just do to whom ever setup tooling or is this a savage contour that is used just by savage?
 
Fairly certain Cabelas had a special run of Savage 116 accu-trigger and accu-stock rifles that had a tapered and fluted stainless barrel in 6.5-284. I know for certain that barrel/model was manufactured as I have one. Shoots lights out.
 
I have taken measurements and it comes in between the 2 tapers or sizes. I had it out of the stock yesterday going over the measurements. I think it's something that may have been a special run at Cabela's. It's a 24 inch fluted barrel that is .705 or .704 at the muzzle and at 22 inches it bigger than a heavy sporter but smaller than a light varmint and the same at 20 inches. But the taper is consistent from the barrel nut to the muzzle. Looking at the difference in what the sites like Criterion post I think the stock had clearance for the light varmint I'm thinking it will fit and a heavy spotter would fit with a little more clearance.
 
It's shot good up to about 4500 rounds. It started opening up the groups after running about 300 rounds of higher velocities using some RL26. RL26 gave me another 100fps on the 140 Berger. But my thoughts now are I'm looking at replacing the barrel and probably going to a 280 Ackley for a little more thump.
 
I cleaned it back to bare metal yesterday and it looks like just from looking at the rifling the first 2 inches are not as deep as the rifling farther up the barrel. The first inch looks really light rifling. I figured it would eventually burn out the barrel and a lot say it ran good for a long time being the caliber it is so I figured it probably time to change. It's been setting for over a year since it went south. I have other guns to play with but I really liked this one. I may even go with just a straight 284 win or what I think some call a 284 shehane.
 
Here are some of the measurements. muzzle is .704/.705…22 inches is .734…20 inches is .759….10 inches is .935 and at the 6.9 inch mark is .986 and right in front of the nut it measured 1.035. It's closer to the heavy sporter barrel but still looks very much like a straight taper. I begging to think it was just whom ever set up the lathe that day on the run of barrels and the amount of flex in the steal. The barrel taper is much closer to the heavy sporter than a light varmint. I have it taped up and will pull it off the action probably in about a week.
 
McGowen has done custom contours for me for a minimal upcharge, don't know if they'll do it for non-FFL's but worth a call if you want to go that direction. Natch, add to the lead time...
 
Also I need to find the rest of my barrel removal kit. My rifle has the smooth barrel nut and the one wrench that is not splined does not tighten down enough. It's been a while since I used this kit though and we moved since then. Last savage it had the rib or splined nut where the other wrench fit it just right. Might check some vids out and see what is being used.
 
Also I need to find the rest of my barrel removal kit. My rifle has the smooth barrel nut and the one wrench that is not splined does not tighten down enough. It's been a while since I used this kit though and we moved since then. Last savage it had the rib or splined nut where the other wrench fit it just right. Might check some vids out and see what is being used.
I had a smooth barrel nut, it came off easily with a pipe wrench on the nut and a action wrench.
 
^^^
This- pipe wrench. Don't even think about re-using the old nut with a new barrel. Order a "precision" nut (NSS is one source) to replace it.
 

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